Betterbuckleup's 2000 taco build & BS

Got some other things done that have been on my list of shit to do. Cleaned up a bunch of wiring and my switches and installed a pair of diode dynamics pod lights.
Swapped out one of the switches for a three-way one since these new pods also have a backlight.


Also welded up a crack that was forming on the downpipe on my exhaust.

 

Been learning a bunch over here about possibly remounting the lowers so you can get better caster with the cams centered:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/general-fabrication.172919/page-124#post-26943323

 

I'll do some reading on that thread. Would be nice if somebody made a kit like the JD Fab one for second gen LCA pivots.

 

Harry said they would if they get 10 trucks lol

 

Oh shit.
I'd def be down to be a guinea pig for that.
Would compliment the RCVs nicely

 

If I had the time I would just make a new set of mounts like mentioned in that thread.

 

Just glanced at it for now, but making a set identical to the OEM ones wouldn't be too difficult.

Could also design in some additional reinforcement and bracing I'm sure

 

Got the new bushings in and slapped in the driver side ones today. I'm getting pretty quick at pulling these LCA's out.....
They weren't nearly as bad as the passenger side since they weren't crossed up, but still pretty damn dry, squeaking a bit, & worn down in some spots though. Hopefully that doesn't happen with proper lubrication now.




Added 90 degree grease zerks to the arms and gave everything a heavy coating of superlube.



Driver side is covered in gear oil because my front diff for some reason is still puking it out even after installing that empty in-line filter in the breather. Need to check the fluid and see if maybe water got in there or something.


The ball joint separator I got worked to remove the LBJ from the LCA so I didn't have to mess with the 4 bolts and tie rod instead which was nice.

Also took some time to cycle the suspension and found a contact point between the spindle gusset and shock tower. Clearanced it with a grinder and slapped some paint on it.

Need to do it all over again on the passenger side sometime this week and then align it.

 

Got the other side done today. Redid the alignment and got the cams in a less crossed up configuration with similar-ish caster and camber. Steering wheel is now straight finally.
Also clearanced the driver side spindle gusset at full bump.


Found out that I had a bunch of water in my steering rack boots likely from earlier this winter when I was at pierce ohv.



Hopefully the seals on my rack helped keep most of the water out from wrecking any of the internals on the rack.
Going to make a mental note to check that spot every time my truck sits in water for a longer period of time.

Also check the front differential fluid level and it looks fine. Didn't look overly watery or brown or anything. So just going to run it for now, and then maybe change it out before the Rubicon just to be safe.

Also discovered that my driver side inner tie rod is bent. Replaced it with a freshie.



Noticed some cracks developing on the front subframe weld. Need to come back in later and grind those out to weld them up. Just IFS things....

 

If you get heimed upper arms you can keep the lower bolts less "crossed up". With all the water and bushing deflection you had I'm wondering if that's how you didn't have a good experience with copper anti-seize. All solo's trucks are centered on their alignment and run adjustment off the uppers and obviously aren't hitting water crossings out in baja.

 

Yeah, I was able to get the cams in a more happy position with around 3.75 to 3° of caster. Not as much as I'd like, but shouldn't have any issues with the firewall with my current 33s.

Yeah, I'm sure that was the just the final straw for any of the anti-seize left in there. Although, it was squeaking even before I went out that time though and I hadn't done any water crossings. Soooo idk.
But yeah, all the solo guys definitely don't experience much of that kind of Wheeling I would guess.

 

What did you use for fittings when you added them for greasing - I have my whole front apart and could probably add some to service them if they start to squeak too.

 

I got a metric variety pack of zerk fittings from monument Auto parts. They were the cheapest there, otherwise it's the same kit that basically all the auto parts places sell. There were two 6 mm 90° zerk fittings that I used in there.

 

How deep do they thread into the outer sleeves?

 

I would say about a bit over halfway. They tighten down to whatever arbitrary position, then you have to turn them some more in order to get them to point downward.

 

Changed out the spark plugs for new ones. They had about 50k on them or so. Hopefully that fixes my intermittent p0420 code that just started coming up.

Cylinders 2 and 4 showed more wear on the ground electrode interestingly. They all weren't too far out of spec for the gap either.






Also removed the seat belts and retractors to be sent in for new buckles and matching receptacles. First time taking off that panel, and didn't realize that the PO who put those speaker boxes in there built them so that it sandwiched that panel between two pieces of MDF. Interesting way to do it. Not really sure what I'm going to do with that space as far as speakers whenever I get around to doing that.





Also welded up the cracks on my subframe that I found previously

 

Spark plugs fixed mine bro!

 

Glad to hear!
Yea I read somewhere that those could also cause it. And it makes sense cause it was definitely time to do mine with about 50k on the clock.
So far so good. Time will tell

 

When did you do wires last?

 

Those are newish. Did them on 1/27/2019