What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

I stopped using their product, because of the amount of cure time it took and the multiple layers required for their exterior products. Always liked their stuff though.

 

Hit 5 digits (actually happened last weekend)

 

Where you able to find instructions for it? The ones on their site I found not to be very detailed and didn’t see many videos on YouTube either. I installed those 2 little “wings” on the outside of the plate, but noticed you put them on the inside. I didn’t think it made much of a difference, but curious to know if you did it, because of some instructions you found that said to do it that way.

 

Did you install for the extra hrspwr?

 

Damn right I did

 

Need some feedback from my fellow Taco owners on a RC molle panel mod (1st picture below). I have the BakFlip MX4 tonneau cover installed and want to install the RC molle panel. The BakFlip requires the factory rail to be lower about an inch (2nd picture below). Can I still mount the RC molle panel without major modifications? I don't mind drilling extra holes, just didn't want it to interfere with the tonneau cover. Any Taco owners with this set-up?

 

Ceramic coating with a 9 year warranty, and new chrome lettering for the tailgate. . Hows she look?

 

do you really need the factory rail? if you do, no way to do it without cutting the entire top half of the molle panel.

but it looks to me like the you could use the included adapters to mount the molle panel directly, bypassing the factory rail. might need to drill a few holes, and add a spacer+longer bolts, but very doable without anything more than a hardware store run and a drill bit.

 

Thanks I'll check that out. Also for what it's worth, my last truck was also an F150 Lariat Supercrew FX4 (2002 model) that I had for 16 years. I used Meguiars on the leather and I also didn't have any cracks or rips. Maybe it was actually good leather vs some of the crap other manufacturers use. The guy that bought it was in awe of the condition of the seats as well as the truck in general as I try and take care of everything I own. I look forward to getting some cat nip for my Tacoma.

 

Right. I do not have that dome.

 

Nah, I doubt the clutch start cancel switch has anything to do with it. All it does is bypass the clutch sensor. With keyless start (at least on my last vehicle) you still have to depress the clutch to start the vehicle, which is totally fine by me.

 

What I’m saying is if you have a button to press to start, it wouldn’t really work well with the function of the clutch start cancel. Because of how a button functions, if the clutch isn’t engaged and the button is pressed the vehicle just turns on, but with clutch start engaged, and a position switch, like the key, you can hold the starter over and move along. A button that only has press once to most everything wouldn’t suffice, so all is manual lovers get the shaft/ or the key rather.

 

Still do. The camera is only useful for the first and last two feet of backing up. For everything else there's "turn your head and look where the fuck you are going."

Me, apparently.

If we did that the entire cottage industry that has been built around making and selling modifications for these trucks would dry up overnight.

I already said that I enjoy the truck. Just because I like the truck doesn't mean I can't be critical of it at the same time. The best friend one can have is the one that will give you an honest opinion, even when it's negative.

 

I can't remember if the push-button start runs off of a timer or a sensor that detects when the motor has reached a certain RPM. If it's the former, yeah, that could be a problem. If it is the latter, then nah, probably not.

 

Sure makes me like my SR all the more.

So my driveway is an absolute nightmare of a hill! (Thank goodness for the creation of the 2W-Lo harness.)
Thus, I back-up to get OFF the road with full lights on. Then I stop at the curb (frnt bumper off the street now) just to allow me to engage the 4x4 (2W-Lo) to get up that MFer hill.
Even though I can be on the street w/ just DRL on for visibility, I wait until clear of any possible traffic. But NO car is going to hit me once I'm in the driveway -- even if I'm rolling completely dark.
You could do the same, however - it may simply be that it is more of a chore for you to cycle through your auto-lights and their associated switch than it is for me to rotate my stalk switch two clicks. I don't know, so I'm NOT blaming you for just dealing w/ a lesser camera view! And am glad to hear that you are staying safe by staying visible to other drivers.

I do have many obstacles to avoid in my driveway (roomies cars, fence, bushes) so I want that better, almost perfect, view. i have to negotiate the truck into a very narrow spot.

 

The CSC allows us to hold the key over for as long as you want, climb up a hill and not slip backwards while playing with the pedals. I’ve been in 4L and let the clutch out uphill held on the brakes, and it’s so smooth, I can’t imagine needing the CSC, but you never know. It’s odd that it doesn’t have the “hill hold” feature many modern manuals do now too.

 

Damn, that must be one hell of a hill. I can't imagine having to engage 4x4 to back in my driveway. We also live on an incline but the driveway is so short that only 2 cars fit end to end. Therefore by the time I get the entire truck off the road I don't have much further to go to get back to the garage. The camera doesn't really hinder me from seeing what I need to see. I also have 2 led lights mounted under the rear bumper that's on a switch left of the steering wheel that I can activate to light up where I'm backing if I need it. It does help the camera a bit when and if I use them even though I still leave my lights on. Good to hear you are waiting to get off the road before turning off you lights.

 

Looks great. 9 year warranty, wow. I opted for the best my local shop offered, which was 5 years. No regrets at all. Congrats

 

Soundman98 - Thanks for the suggestion. I like the flexibility provided by the factory rails that I can move my tie down points if needed. Probably can't cinch it down or risk bending the tonneau cover bracket.

 

if you just need the tie down points, i believe there's 4 bolts per side, could just add some of the ebay track d-rings off those adapter bolts for the oem bar mount to provide a oem-type mounting point without relying on leveraging the adapter. i understand you lose some of the tie down flexibility, but 4 ought to be all you really need anyways.. i've hauled scrap a number of times, and i haven't ran into a scenario where 4 equally-spaced mounts don't fit the form factor of whatever 'free money' people are throwing out that week.

or, could mount the rail over the top of the molle panel-- the molle panel bolts will already line up with the oem mounting points due to the stepped brackets included with them. biggest disadvantage to this method though is that it could put a serious side-load on that aluminum adapter that would normally drop the rail. it might be fine, i dunno, just not something i'd be personally happy with attempting to safely strap down a 1,000pound motorcycle, or in my case 2 washing machines and a floppy rusty grille missing 3 wheels so it's unstable in the bed... of course, this is the method that the tonneau cover company is essentially recommending to do. i just don't like the appearance of it. i don't trust that 2 ratchet straps tightened down over the top of something won't cause some bent hardware issues...


3rd potential option that you would need to investigate with the parts on hand would be to alter the rail mounting holes to mount over the top of the aluminum adapters in the oem location, but with that adapter in place behind it. i don't believe the top step-over to attach to the tonneau provides enough clearance, and it looks like there might also be a pneumatic strut mount obstructing this method as well. but it's the only other option i can think of to make that work as-is.