New England B.S. Thread

It WILL extend the life of the part, under typical service.
Most things with a zerk, are NOT greased properly. Over greased.. then, seal fails... etc.
It's fine if one is consistent with maintenance....

 

The greasable joints will last longer if properly maintained but the non-greasable ones are much stronger. The greasable ones have the centers bored out to let the grease flow through them where as the non-greasable ones are solid all the way through. The non's may not last as long but they won't break under load nearly as easy.

 

That’s what I did. I borrowed a press from Autozone and used the big Dewalt cordless impact. I had the C clip in on one side and was trying to get the other clip in. I needed a tiny bit more space and hit it a couple more times with the impact and blew out the back side. Dumb mistake but I’m pretty sure it’s because the Moog was just a tiny bit to big.

 

I got a racing chair/wheel/pedal mount from a friend of mine a few years ago. I'm planning on doing a setup with my Xbox or PC, nothing too too crazy. I like playing Wreckfest, WRC games, and stuff like that.

The G920 is on my list as well, I've just never pulled the trigger on it. I need to bite the bullet.

 

I've been looking at the thrustmaster t300, a hundred ish more but the build quality is supposed to be better all around. Probably end up getting this one and if I really get into simracing I'll look at upgrading down the road but this should more than hold me over till then

 

I just like that the G920 is good enough, and it is compatible with the Xbox and PC. I'm not looking to make massive investments.

 

I might be

 

Hey that's my drag name

 

I did the rear ds in my LC after one if the joints decided to Kurt Cobain itself. I did it with basic hand tools, which required a lot of elbow grease but was totally doable. Used toyota parts and it was good.

 

Toyota parts in my ds as well. Dealer had them right in stock and same price as RA.

 

Is Camelback Toyota still a thing? They smoked my local dealer on many parts.

 

IDK I just use Boch Toyota South and I get a deal telling them I still work at my previous employer.

 

Does anyone have a good steel supplier in or near NH? I am mostly looking for 1.75 OD .120 wall DOM or maybe welded

 

I got my rusty frame inspected today. It passed and they put in the plugs and goop along all the seams. What do they use? It looks like liquid nails and was dripping out of the smaller holes. Is it supposed to glue the rust flakes together?

 

It’s supposed to give you a warm and fuzzy feeling that your frame is great when, in reality, they just prolonged it’s suffering by a couple years.

 

And have hidden all of the bad spots from view with plugs and their “special” coating.
They told me to bring it back in for another inspection in 2 years. Toyota is on the hook 4 more years. That’s right around the time my oldest kid will start driving. A new frame and everything else attached to it will be perfect then.

 

I know that Choice Metals in Goffstown can get at least some sizes of DOM. https://www.choicemet.com/
In my experience they are pretty good at sourcing things. That doesn't mean they are cheap.

The other place that I'm aware of is Cohen Steel in Concord, but they seem to do more structural / A36 sort of stuff.

 

I'll check them both out, thanks for your help.

 

Choice quoted me $20/ft for DOM, they mine as well had just said f off.

 

I wonder since I have patched the forward passengerside part of the frame if it's beneficial for me to get the plugs and just fluid film in there after I do another coat of eastwood internal frame coating. What holes do they plug up?