Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

I was just prepping it to go after it with a chainsaw file. I'll dab in some epoxy and file it smooth after curing a couple days.

I just ordered some gasket material. 1/64" thick

 

What do you guys see as the benefit of tiller versus discs to prep garden?

A 4ft disc harrow costs half as much as 4ft tiller.

Been many many years since i last used big boy garden tools and i was a teen then just doing what i was told without knowing why.

 

Lot less passes to make the soil planting ready.

 

Discing is usually done after you plow and turn over the soil to flatten it down and break up the clumps. Tilling mostly chops up the top 4/6 inches of soil and loosens it, breaks it up, and destroys the root system [hopefully] of any plants [weeds] that are growing.

And it really depends on how big your garden is going to be. 100-1000 sq feet or thousands of square feet or acres.

 

My plan is to try to get 2 patches about 20x80 feet and maybe a 3rd spot slightly bigger. It's enough space that i don't want to push a little tiller by hand for all of it.

edit: if they produce well, i would expand them next year.

 

Fresh never farmed land? Hire it out to be plowed and disced the first year, buy a decent sized GOOD rear tined tiller after that is done. Do NOT buy a front tined tiller, those things will beat the living hell out of you. I have a 1960? era Ariens Rocket tiller I can run with literally one finger on the handle. The handle rotates to either side so you can even walk to the side of the tilled earth and is counter weighted.

 

They both have their place, a tiller won’t go very deep, neither will a disc. Need to plow it first and then disc it, that’s how we always did it.

A tiller will bust all the clods better though so it’s a either or situation really.

 

Screwdriver gouge. Hard to judge the depth to decide if just sealant would be good enough. I like Ultra Black.

 

Yep. I figured that as well.

That and the magnets installed out of sequence in the flywheel as well.

So far, this rig has only cost me time.

I've got those other 2 mowers getting lots of attention presently.

I'm not too unhappy with the rebuild process....yet.

 

My continuing quest for a Flail mower lead me to this ad. This dude has 3 Mott's Daisy Chained together lol. Looks like an effective, yet total pain in the ass way to mow 9' at a time.

It's not enough of a price discount for the value to really consider unfortunately. Flipside is you would have an endless supply of spare hammers and parts haha.

 

I'll take 1 to mount on the front of my compact skid steer.

 

You’d have to wear ear plugs inside some ear muffs

That’s neat though, I can’t imagine the turning radius though.

 

A Titan 48" flail came up local to me. Watching vids of one working makes me think it doesn't cut better than my hog. This one cost $3500 new. $2000 asking price


https://youtu.be/2HRAOb7ERzI

 

I don't think it's a matter of being better, just different. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages. For me and where I would use one, the compact size of the flail would be nice. I would be mounting the flail to the front of my SxS to mow in my woods.
Also, I'm not paying anywhere close to 2k for something to mow grass and briars at my cabin.

 

No disrepect meant on the flail and I love the compact size of it. My hog takes up waaaay too much space in my wellhouse. I was just thinking that if I wanted a flail instead of my rotary that I wouldn't be gaining anything except floor space.

 

Oh, none taken. The main reason I want a flail is to get in between trees and chop briars easier. With the pull mower you have to fit in and navigate around, if even possible. I really just want to drive into the clump of trees and straight back up if it makes sense. That's why I am converting my tow mower to a front mount. Realistically I can do it with any type of mower, the flail is the smallest of the options though.

With my tractor, the briars eat you alive brush hogging, and my SxS is so big, foot print and room become a serious issue. I use my SxS because it is less painful and far more comfortable.

For maintaining my trails and open areas, towing is no issue, that's why I am leaving the ability to tow mine. I think my current setup with the tongue is like 10' long, a flail would only be about 2' front mounted and 5' or so with a tow setup. A brush hog front mounted would be about 5' or so, and heavier.

And for the record, I really want an old Made in America one, the newer, more expensive Chinese options don't do anything for me. The older ones use straight off the shelf parts like bearings and knives are readily available, and certainly have a quality advantage. Not to mention price.

 

A sore spot for Cub3000 owners is the poor hydro linkage and bushings Cub saddled these with leading them to slow down to a crawl over the years. One weak point is a slotted linkage (not wear) that takes travel out of the fwd/reverse pedals letting the linkage go 1/4" each way before engaging the hydro.

I ream the hole to 1/2" and put a bronze flange bushing in the slotted hole to remove the slop and the result is 9mph fwd speed. I did my 3225 today. I'll adjust the linkage to give a little less fwd and more reverse. I don't need to go this fast lol.It was pulling the front wheels off the ground but I couldn't get it on the vid because it was flipping me back in the seat too hard.

I did the same mod to my 3205--bottom vid

https://youtu.be/rC5pQWm11MU

https://youtu.be/3XM10SM0XNA

 

That rips! Nice upgrade.

I pulled the front wheels off the ground once goofing around with one of my Ford LGT 145s -- completely unexpected and gave me a heck of a scare.

 

I felt some feeling of accomplishment yesterday. The silly chute hood got whacked so hard it escaped the "U" portion of the spring and was really flopping about. I figured out (hahhaha) the pin has a detent spring pin.......never noticed it before. Just slide pin out put all in order and tap back in with a small hammer. Beats tearing the whole sucker off and throwing it in the woods.

 

I hate form a gasket and I'm not very good at making paper gaskets. I got to thinking, why not use the technology that I already own?

I took a pic of the block and imported that into Fusion 360. I could now trace all the features of the block gasket.

Once that was done I saved the traced image as a DFX. Because Cricut used SVG, I needed to convert the DFX to SVG. There are all sorts of converting programs available for free to do this.

The disadvantage of DFX files, is they have no dimensions. My traced drawing was to scale, but the converted SVG the size is lost. It's easy to make the image larger or smaller with the Cricut program. Just drag the corner and shrink or expand. Just make sure you keep the image on the canvass lacked or you will lose the correct ratio. I'll have to cut a few out of plain paper and test fit.

I'm sure there is a better way to do this, but I haven't found it yet.