Home Improvement Today?

I’ve never had an inspector require 4’ of copper pipe. What code is that?

 

Philadelphia Plumbing Code:

P-503.3 Materials

All water heaters and water heating equipment shall have a minimum of 4 feet (1219 mm) of developed length of copper tubing or similar metallic piping material connecting directly to the inlet and outlet of the unit.

Uniform Plumbing Code also requires 18":
604.11.2 Water Heater Connections. PEX shall not be installed within the first 18 inches (457 mm) of piping connected to a water heater.

 

I understand the UPC 604.11.2. It’s the Philly code that seems odd. What happened in Philly that made the code be 4’ exceeding the UPC?

 

Bread absolutely works. They also make Jet Swets that work better. If your a DIY plumber I wouldn't expect you to pony up for the Jet Swets. They are awesome though.

Pro TIp: If you use bread be prepared to clean all the faucet screens upstream of that repair. Other then that make sure it's fresh squishy bread and your golden.

 

Crap, now you got me thinking to get some 18" copper connectors and cutting that bottom section out. I should be good for a week till I can get to it...

 

$255 for a set, wowzers!

Might have to try the bread trick next time. There's gonna be more plumbing on this house for sure!

 

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...Heater-Connector-7-8-in-O-D-WB07-18/205204448

 

Not sure what caused the change. I believe it was 3 feet last edition of the code.

 

Might want to put a disconnect for the power while securing it unless the circuit breaker is within eyesight

Midwest U065P Disconnect Switch, A/C, Pull Out, 60A, 1P, 240VAC, Metal, NEMA 3R https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000B83Z1M

Sealproof Power Whip Assembly, 1/2-Inch x 6 Ft Nonmetallic Liquid Tight Flexible Electrical Conduit and 10 Gauge Wire Single Phase Preassembled A/C Hook-up Whip Kit, 1/2"

$26 Sealproof Power Whip Assembly, 1/2" x 6 Ft Nonmetallic Liquid Tight Flexible Electrical Conduit and 10 Gauge Wire Single Phase Preassembled A/C Hook-up Whip Kit, 1/2"

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0756N989G

 

Very good thinking! I'm fortunate that my WH is about 15 feet from the panel.

 

We had our saddle valve removed and a nice valve put in its place for our fridge line. Before you could never truly turn it off, and at full open it was a trickle. Now the new fridge has plenty of clean water.

 

looks good. Go with uponor pex if you want to keep standard size pipe and reduce pressure loss. Not a huge fan of the crimp fittings, either the copper/SS rings or uponor expansion fittings. I don’t buy the 4’ of copper, smells like some building inspector got picky, 18” is even overkill. I like to leave a small stub out of copper so you have a handle to carry the old one out when it breaks lol.

 

Inspector only looked at outside. Signed off and left.

 

Look into a solar roof mounted attic fan. I one installed about a year ago and it made a world of difference pulling hot air out of the attic and keeping the house a bit cooler during the hot AZ summers.

 

I gave up.

Trying to run a 12/2 cable through a 6X6 POST into a hollow blind corner, make the corner, then through a 2x6 stud..........holes drilled which was a complete bitch. 3 drills (including my 90° DeWalt, which did fine........but with a 30" bit got a little vigorous and drilled out..........through the siding! Shit.

Fished and fished. Tapes. Strings. Wires.

I gave up.

Then I looked upto the heavens - my path was clear. I can go up and over the beam pocket! I will just add an outlet in the corner. I have a brand new old box of 100ft 12/2.

Thank you Jesus. I am sorry about swearing to you. I needed to add a couple circuits anyway.

Need QP breakers and few odds and ends.........headed out

 

the ones with the floodlights? no i didnt. not really needed, i dont have a large area of land and dont want to blind the neighbors lol

 

Yeah, I have been wanting some input on the ones with floodlights. I want to put one on the front of my garage, but don't want to spend the money if it's pretty well useless.

 

@Not a golfer

I scrubbed all the walls with TSP, and triple washed and scraped any loose pain. After using Zinsser Oil-based primer, the paint is now easily pealing off the walls, where it was not before. I have not had this happen in the past when using these products, could it be that the brick wall was holding some moisture that caused a 'freeing' of the primer and existing paint after the Zinsser was applied?

I am at a loss and now have to re-do a bunch of work where I though I was done.

 

I had that happen when I went to repaint the house we just bought. I too am interested in an explanation.