What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Seems like the best way to avoid corrosion since regular steel in aluminum is typically rare to seize up together.

@Itsgottabeyourbull if it makes you feel any better I learned this lesson the hard way when I used stainless hardware to install my light bar. After the heads snapped clean off trying to remove the light bar I ended up needing to weld a nut to what was left to get it out. Just trying to save you from a really bad time in the future especially after you did all that work.

 

@cynicalrider I seriously appreciate you and the post. Also appreciate @Empty_Lord and his input.

when I was picking out the hardware my only focus was getting something that wouldn’t corrode.. appreciate you guys.

 

From what I understand A lot of Galling happens from the heat of friction. If you’re going to remove and use some anti-seize go slow and use some penetrating oil. This bolts aren’t very tight to begin with so it would be fine as long as you don’t use drill to remove them.

 

I recently just did the valve cover gasket replacement and sheered one of the bolt heads right off and was taking it extremely slow.. why I ended up switching hardware to stainless.. so that wouldnt happen again.. completely spaced the possibility of galvanization… will get nickel anti seize added or replace back to steel hardware this weekend.

 

Finally put my bed bars, tent, and high lift back on the truck. It's riding so nicely now



Sits more flat than that picture suggests and I'm still about 75lbs shy of my normal weight.

 

Just to follow-up with a few more details on wiring the '04 Tacoma power mirrors on my '98 Tacoma. I don't profess to be an automotive wiring expert, but I researched and used parts and methods that best fit my situation - YMMV.

First of all, I found a donor '98 Tacoma Limited at a local junk yard and removed the mirror control panel / harness plug with about 8" of wire length remaining on the plug. I also removed the driver and pass. side mirrors and cut each plug off so I could reuse these on my '04 mirrors.

I used the following materials for the job:
* 3 conductor tinned/stranded 18 Ga. wire (Amazon)
* Single stranded 18 Ga. wire (Lowes)
* Heat shrink butt splice connectors for 16-22 Ga. wire (Lowes)
* 3M Super 77 Elec. Tape (Lowes)
* 090 SKT1 connectors (Corsa Technic)

Some things are pretty obvious, but the both mirrors, door panels, speakers, and lower kick panels have to be removed to complete this work.

Please reference the attached drawings / diagrams as well:

I. Wiring from the mirror control panel for Power and Ground:
- GR-R wire (Power) to IH1: I used a red 18 Ga. single stranded wire butt spliced to GR-R, then to connector IH1 and using a soldered 090IIU-SKT1 connector plugged into position #2.
- W-B wire (Ground): Although the drawing shows connecting this wire to IH2, pos. #2, I simply spliced/soldered/taped this wire into the W-B wire going to the power window wiring, close to the mirror controller.
- Just to keep the wiring together, the red power wire was taped to the 3 conductor cable running through the rubber door sleeve and leading to IH1 described in part III below.

II. Wiring from the mirror control panel to Driver mirror:
- LG wire to mirror: Solder splice/tape (along with black wire for pass side) the black wire on the 3 conductor cable, then butt splice at LG wire at mirror plug.
- P wire to mirror: Butt splice the Red wire on the 3 conductor cable, then butt splice at P wire at mirror plug.
- P-G wire to mirror: Butt splice the Yellow wire on the 3 conductor cable, then butt splice at P-G wire at mirror plug.
- This 3 conductor cable is run along with the power window/lock harness and then up to the drivers mirror plug.

III. Wiring from the mirror control panel to Pass side IH1 connector at driver side lower kick panel:
- LG wire to IH1: Solder splice/tape (along with black wire for driver side) the black wire on the 3 conductor cable, then to connector IH1 and using soldered 090IIU-SKT1 connector plugged into position #5.
- G-B wire to IH1: Butt splice the Yellow wire on the 3 conductor cable, then to connector IH1 and using soldered 090IIU-SKT1 connector plugged into position #7.
- G-R wire to IH1: Butt splice the Red wire on the 3 conductor cable, then to connector IH1 and using soldered 090IIU-SKT1 connector plugged into position #3.
- This 3 conductor cable is run along with the power window/lock harness and then through the rubber door sleeve and to IH1 connector plug.

IV. Wiring from IL1 at pass side lower kick panel to the pass. side mirror:
- IH1 at driver kick panel to IL1 at pass. kick panel was already wired on my truck.
- To make this job easier, I preassembled a new cable using the 3 conductor cable and crimping/soldering the 090IIU-SKT1 connector to each wire and pulled through the rubber door sleeve.
- IL1 pos. #5 to mirror: From pos. #5 on IL1, solder 090IIU-SKT1 connector to Black wire on 3 conductor cable then butt splice that G wire at mirror plug.
- IL1 pos. #7 to mirror: From pos. #7 on IL1, solder 090IIU-SKT1 connector to Yellow wire on 3 conductor cable then butt splice that G-B wire at mirror plug.
- IL1 pos. #3 to mirror: From pos. #3 on IL1, solder 090IIU-SKT1 connector to Red wire on 3 conductor cable then butt splice that G-R wire at mirror plug.

Of course, I used a heat gun to shrink all butt splice connections and I used cable ties on the wiring inside both doors and tried to follow the OEM wiring routes and much as possible. I taped-up the groups of butt splice connectors to keep things more organized.

Sorry I didn't take any pictures during my install. I hope these instructions will help and happy to answer any questions.

 

Regular steel hardware and some aluminum antiseize and you should be good. Literally almost every bolt on my truck has been hit with aluminum antiseize except the exhaust stuff where I used copper.

 

drove it around a little bit today... it drives so nice. and it looks so unique...

waiting on the weather to actually be nice enough on one of my days off to do some clean up on the underside of the new bed so i can get it installed on this thing..

 

Specs man, specs! I assume no parking brake?

 

Yes parking brake. In the process of getting cables that came with kit shortened. SOS Tundra brakes.

 

Marion, IL. Toyota. Always love to see old trucks like this one come through the shop! A 1992 with over 300,000 miles! YES it is the original frame!

 

Does a person need to take the fan off to change serpentine belts, specifically the one that goes to the AC

 

@JKO1998

i just changed my drive belts 2 days ago. you don't need to remove your fan.

The power steering belt was difficult. ratcheting wrench for the tensioner is a must.

 

I’ve replaced the PS pump 4 times

I ain’t scared

 

christ im still on the original lol!

 

I don’t have any wrenches up here though, jus sockets…


Will have to investigate

 

pretty sure my alt belt could've gone 100k more miles

 

Anyone know if turd (3rd) seats bolt in 1st gen tacos?

 

I’m sure with some modifications

 

This weekend when blower motor started making a noise I pulled it thinking it was a basket issue. Basket was dirty but nothing in it. Took the blower apart and brushes still look like plenty of life. Cleaned everything with electrical spray but when I ran it after assembly started smoking on higher speeds. Today I dropped it again sprayed well with a silicone spray and seems better but on highest setting starts smoking with strong electrical smell and speed drops. Is there anything else to be done or is it just telling me to order a new one before it sizes. Looks to be an aftermarket unit, VDO