TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

very good idea @SUMOTNK on battery tests. i quickly suggested alt replace as itsa pita to access like everything on these rigs.

 

how do alt failure symtoms show up? i thought my dd dodge had it going but it was cam/crank sensors. freaked everything out though.

 

Running the AC is not a valid alternator test as it cycles. When testing the battery at idle it's always best to run something that requires constant draw, like the headlight high beams and the blower fan on max.

 

and these are the things the pros know. i like asking questions to hear real info.

 

A very and quick in da hood way to test the alternators output if it's suspected as going bad is to disconnect to positive battery cable from the battery. If the motor dies immediately, or is struggling to keep runnnig.. alternator needs replacing.

you should look into adding a diode into the ALT-S circuit to boost the alternators output. A typical diode will add another .5v to the output, great for AGM style batteries. The diode that I use costs under 5 bucks at the average auto parts store.

 

In other news the ZL1 is getting some nice little upgrades in a hurry.

- AEM drop in panel filter - on order
- Ruthenium LTR7BHX plugs - on standby and waiting for install
- Cordes all aluminum supercharger expansion tank - on order (these cars don't come with an external supercharger tank, but a vacuum sealed coolant loop which has been documented to cause excessive blower heatsoak. How stupid)
- Titanium tow hook for the front - on order
- Husky floor liners for every side - on order
- HPT Tune? - Pending?

- RPM belt - done
- Dad's old Carbon Fiber license plate frame - done
- Dad's guitar mirror pendant from his Corvette - done
- Front license plate delete - done

The little mods are JUST as important to me on this car as the somewhat bigger ones.

 

Silly me… I just bought a $101 fuse off the AGM thread from Australia for my x2 power… there’s a cheap one from auto parts stores ?!

 

ah got another car to dabble ?

 

Is it the adjustable one? I paid around the same for the one in autralia. I like it because I can adjust and fine-tune the increase in voltage I want. But in theory you can just add the diode which I think is for GM vehicles for cheap.

I have the bigger 250 Alt on my list at some point.

 

I don't even know why you peeps are spending what your spending to boost voltage by .5v lmao. But yes, the diode I use is $3.99 at O'Ryilies Autoparts. I don't use a add a fuse to protect the circuit. Only thing that will happen if the diode goes bad is the circuit will act as open circuit and a steady illuminated Battery Light will be on. The Alternater will continue to charge with an "open" circuit.

Edited:

Check out my right up for the diode ..
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/monkeyproofs-misadventures.697489/page-2

 

I did!

 

Nice very practical

 

Those were my thoughts exactly when I got it!

I'm retired now, I have no commitments, no kids and no wife, and what the toy car can't haul around, that's what I got the truck for. Less mileage input into one vehicle and I get to enjoy 24-30 MPG on the regular now.

 

Nice enjoy! I’m sure it’s a fun one

 

12.4 psi of fun.

 

It is not. Just a .5v boost.
Whelp now I know if I ever need a new one, $3.99 does it.
Somehow I missed your thread on that. Only saw @crashnburn80 one.

 

What is the 240/250A alternator that you guys are referring to? DC Power? Singer?

 

I got one off eBay that was about the third of the DC power cost. I’m not sold. I had my stock alt go out so I replaced with this one. I now have speaker feedback on cold and rainy days which drives batshit crazy. I think may be due to the alternator build quality, but not an electronic wizard. I may go back to OEM just rebuilding my stock setup.

 

Alright gents, I promise @12TRDTacoma I’d do a quick write up since I am now the third victim to a broken Stud!

Last Friday I went to hop in the truck and when I turned the engine over it squealed something turrible. Naturally I turn it back off and pop the hood to find the S/C belt popped. Let it sit and took the wife’s SUV. Saturday morning I dropped my skid plate and revealed the shredded ribbed idler pulley on the bottom of my S/C belt drive. (First Photo)

Ordered a replacement pulley from McGeorge Toyota Online PArts store (Part No. PTR29-35075) in case anyone ever needs it... It ran about $150 plus tax.

The day before yesterday I received the pulley and went to take everything apart and found out the double sided stud holding my Tensior Assembly in place completely sheered off in my Timing cover . (Second photo)

Went into panic mode (obviously) and started looking over everything else as well.

I also discovered my Tensioner Support Bracket, item C5 on the TRD S/C fit kit was completely wasted.

So I have reached out to Nergal over at Superchargersonline to request new studs for the tensior assembly and am asking him to see if he can get a new bracket for me with hardware as well. I will keep you guys updated of the progress as it goes. Fortunately the wife works from home and I just recently retired from the Army so we have another vehicle. However, I now affirm that we should be concerned about the mods surrounding the tensioner, pulley and belts.

My set up was completely TRD OEM, minus a 2.85 Pulley boys replacement pulley at snout. No Rousch product in mine and it still snapped the stud. Seems to be a product/hardware issue.