Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I need to do this some day and tie the cab cage into the bed cage

 

For those on the fence. @JustDSM and @BortisYeltzen did an amazing job on my tune. Stock gears with 35’s and it drives a million times better than it did on 265’s. Almost makes me question re gearing because it drives so well now. I actually have the juice to beat a yellow light. Tied with jd fab for best purchase I made with the truck On a 91 tune got about an additional 40 ft lbs of torque all in the 2-3k rpm range and 15hp. All I can say is WOW what a difference.

 

3rd gen TC pump… do tell do tell… is a kit going to be available soon?

 

The kit is identical to the second Gen kit and is available right now. The only difference is you have to re route the coolant lines for the heat exchanger which is really, really simple and the kit will come with everything you need

 

What is the reasoning you typically don’t see leaf sprung trucks with rear sway bars? I’ve been tossing this question in my head for a while. I’m probably missing something simple in my thought process.

 

Can't think of any reason to not run us rear sway bar out with leaf spring truck. I know some guys that run the currie anti-rock and are stoked on it. I plan to eventually one day put one in the rear of mine. There are also plenty of trucks that come from the factory with the rear sway bar and leafs.

 

I've just personally never understood why its not more common. You can still get some pretty great articulation with a bar and improve handling at the same time. Seems like a win win to me. Packaging would be a little bit of a challenge but its likely still something that can be worked with.

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say it's likely because the general consensus is it's not necessary or worth the additional cost. I know sway bars come standard on the Tundra but leafs have a lot of friction as is and appear to be rather stable in comparison to a linked setup.

 

I'm sure that's definitely part of it. But there are some pretty legit leaf spring builds out there WITH a bar. Just not much talk about what made them go that route and how it improved things.

 

This truck has a speedway sway bar, F67 deavers and king 3.5” 5 tube bypass shocks and it works good. Honestly most leaf spring trucks don’t go fast enough to see the benefits of a sway bar. I could see one potentially being kinda cool for the rock donkey guys with really soft rear leaf springs but other than that it’s kind of pointless

 

Go fast you say?

 

Most of the guys I know with bars in the back on leafs are more oriented toward crawling or "overlanding", not so much go fast stuff.
There is a definite benefit to on road handling and in the rocks though. That's my main interest behind installing one, personally.

 

I am interested in adding a rear sway bar to my setup. Have started on the project already, but not sure how long it will take to complete since it is coupled with other changes at the same time. But I'm putting a TRD sway bar on the top of the axle. Didn't want it on the under side acting like a tail hook or reducing ground clearance. It will involve moving some brake line brackets and re-forming the lines to clear. Can't decide if I'm going to leave on the diff skid (it is very scraped up from my past trips and inexperienced driving) or save the weight - keeping it complicates the brake line brackets and overall install, removing is more clearance and less weight... I have several options for links, and I think disconnecting one side at the link and tying it out of the way will be easy and it will still clear everything when articulating - If I even want to disconnect. Some feedback I've heard from other folks with other truck platforms... once the rear sway bar is on, assuming front bar exists also, why bother taking it off, truck works just as good offroad, if not better in those off camber situations, and WAY better on road, even on dirt road...

I don't do the hard core 'wheeling' that I see discussed in this thread, but the truck sees its fair share of 4low, scraping the skids and adventuring. It is a very heavy expedition (don't like using the 'O' word) setup for the family of 4, and much of the weight is way higher than the original center of gravity so I do feel the truck is more tippy than I'd like. Hoping the rear sway bar helps with the handling on the road, as well as offroad. I've never had an issue with not enough articulation yet, so thinking that a small reduction in that articulation would be worth the trade off. Have air lockers front and rear for situations of reduced traction and articulation.

Will be adding the smaller diameter trd offroad front sway bar to the truck at the same time. My truck is trd sport so it originally came with larger front bar (which has been off for years). Can play with that later if I want, easy enough to change it out. I sure wish there was a different style front bar setup that was available, something that went off the main crossmember at the LCA front pivot or something, and connected to the LCA instead of the spindle... but I'd guess that is way more complicated to make it work correctly and nearly zero market. Maybe someday there will be an available 2 piece front bar setup, where you remove the trailing portion of the bar and the link on one side to disconnect so the unconnected side is gone and doesn't foul with the CV boot.





Brackets will be welded to axle, clamps for mockup. I may have to put a small spacer between the welded mount and the bushing clamp to space it out and up more, depending on clearance and brake lines and such. Waiting for a parts order so I don't have to take my truck apart to get the brake lines figured out.

Speaking of parts - anyone have the bracket that the rear flex lines go through when connecting to the hard lines on the axle? I want one to cut-up for my brake line re-do, maybe someone who has put in a different axle in this thread has one sitting around. It bolts to the axle and holds the lower side of the brake flex lines.

 

Going to be sweet! Too bad it is so much more difficult to mount the bar to the frame.

 

I know all the pro type trucks and KOH type things would always have a way more advanced/adjustable bar mounted to the chassis, links to the axle. Recall seeing pictures of Harry's 81 setup that way. Clearly better, but not do-able with my constraints, and something better than nothing is what I'm going to try. Hope getting the links setup securely isn't too much of a deal.

 

Doesn't have to be very complicated.
This is essentially what I'm planning on doing.
Pretty simple. Run tube between the frame rails. Packaging isn't too bad imo as long as you cycle the suspension and make sure the arms aren't contact the tires at full flex or going too far up into the fender wells (i'm sure even less of an issue with LT guys with wider axles and glass).

The Currie rock jock 45" universal antirock kit supposedly is perfect for the width of 1st gens.

https://www.instagram.com/p/COBLPmHnieb/

 

Desperate times call for desperate measures... when you don’t want to wait 10 months for new shocks you modify existing ones to work

Cutting 18” shocks down to 14”

 

Helps having the equipment and know how.

 

I cant verify the overall output has changed after i installed mine but it shifts the power band lower in the RPM range, the truck is not hunting gears nearly as often and has the grunt to spin the 33's without seeing redline now. As far as mileage i picked up 1-2 max but thats only if i can keep my foot out of it on a stock motor with no aftermarket computer tune.

 

Is this for the Trekker?