2011 Taco AC mystery

I've been reading through the forums and have found some clues from some of you guys, but I still am not sure about what's going on.

This happened suddenly - one day, frosty cold; the next day - hot. I've got colder air coming out on the driver's side vent, and it gets progressively hotter moving towards the passenger side.

I have tried the tricks with rotating the climate control dial from cold to hot 40 times, switching modes, etc.

It has no trouble switching from AC to heat and back. Compressor works perfectly. I don't think it's a blend door issue, I have no weird noises or anything.

Cabin filter was dirty and has been changed. It blows better and cleaner, but still not cold. I'm afraid to add freon without knowing if that's the issue. I don't have all of the AC diagnostic equipment to check pressure, etc.

I read where one guy had a similar problem and said that he pulled on the linkage underneath the heater box which had extra slack in it and it got cold. Something about the way it closes off the hot air. I don't know where this is or how to access it to see if this may be my issue.

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give!

 

Bump!

 

Either your blend door system is forked or you have air in your coolant system.

Check your coolant level both in your tank and under your radiator cap and pull your glove box turn your truck on but not engine running and try to listening to your blend door motors.

Alternatively you can pull the panel at the bottom of the windshield and look down into the outside air intake for the HVAC and see if the doors are moving and in time.

You may be able to pull your cabin air filter and look up at them with a small mirror.

 

Thanks - I'll check it out!

 

Cool air progressing to warm air at different vents is indicative of low refrigerant. There been more than a few guys with the same issue. Some claim to have fixed the issue by adding refrigerant.

Others had actual leaks that need addressed.

I don’t much about AC System
@Jimmyh and @Dm93 are the go to guys on that.

 

Check for leaks by utilizing a can of refrigerant with UV dye. Bear in mind that you can damage your AC system if you don't know what you're doing. Heres a good place to start about using the dye to find the leak:



-J

 

I want to add refrigerant to see if that fixes it, but I'm worried about trying to add it if that isn't the issue and it's already got enough. If I get a can that has a gauge built in, will that tell me right off if it's full? AC system stuff is not an area I have any experience in obviously! I just don't want to overfill it. Thanks for the replies!

 

Kinda sort of but not really.

Those cans can only measure the low pressure side so you're not even getting half the picture, it mostly a sales gimmick.

You need the AC gauge sets that clip on the high and low shrader valves and have a sight glass to observe refrigerant mobility and check for flash freezing.

Too much can cause issues just like too little.

A lot of A/C shops will do refrigerant checks for free just take it to one that lets you watch them check it. Some skeevie shops might pull it around back let some out and tell you you're low.

 

Great information. Thanks a million. Looks like I should probably take it somewhere.

 

I'm not an expert by any means but I can tell you some things to check that don't require hooking up gauges.

Blend door travel.

The temperature actuator can be seen by removing the glovebox and floor duct, the duct is a little tricky to get off but pretty easy once you figure it out.


The notch on the actuator shaft should line up with the mark on the actuator body as shown in the picture below.


Recirc door should also be open as shown with the recirc button on.

Closed (Recirc off)


Open (Recirc on)


Also check and see if the suction line (see picture below) is cold (truck running, A/C on high), if it isn't or is barely cool your either low on refrigerant or there's another problem in the refrigeration system, at this point you will need someone with gauges to hook up to it and diagnose further.

 

Thanks for the info and pictures!

 

Please listen to this. Your coolant level has *nothing* to do with this. Get a manifold and set of gauges on your truck and find the true high/low readings.

 

I got the recirc door positions backwards, recirc on the door should be open, recirc off it should be closed.
I edited my post above to reflect this.

 

I plan on going through it tomorrow and will post updates on what I find. Thanks for all the feedback

 

The video I linked to in my initial reply is just how I get the UV dye into the system, it isn't good for a fill repair. I attest it to the green slime in your tires if you get a flat, it works to get you home but it needs to be repaired properly. If the easy fixes regarding the blend door and recirc doesn't fix the problem, then check for leaks. Some leaks are easier to fix than others but if you do have a leak, take it to a shop and have them reclaim all your old refrigerant before you open your system. You can then fix/replace what needs to be fixed in your garage and most auto shops (IE O'reiley's, Auto Zone ..) have a tool rental program that you can borrow a servicing kit and vacuum. It'll take an afternoon to service your own AC.

-J

 

The system should have dye in it from the factory, should be no need to add more unless the system has been rebuilt and no dye was added.

 

I believe it’s green. Or at least that’s what it looked like on mine?

 

Yes A/C Dye is typically yellowish green to green and glows bright green under UV light.

 

I took the liberty of jumping to conclusions on a 2011 Tacoma with an unknown length of time a potential leak could have been leaking and if that dye might've been washed off, especially if a leak is found in the engine compartment. Adding in a little more dye on a system that will be purged prior to opening the system wouldn't hurt it. Now, if the heater core is the source of the leak, then one could see that leak without adding any additional dye. I just hedged my bet. And yes, the dye is typically dayglo green best seen under UV light.

-J