Paint Wrinkles on 2nd Coat

Short answer: Yes.

 

You got it. Even a brand new truck with perfect paint would need sanding.

 

My world is rocked who knew you couldnt spray new paint directly onto the clear coat I demand a recount ! Lol

 

Well he said in his post: Sprayed with highly diluted spic and span and wiped and dried off the area before applying 2nd coat.

 

Do you usually spray mineral spirits onto paint just before spraying new paint ive been using apple cidar vinegar diluted with water but Im not sure its working well. THis is after I 320, 400, and then 600 grit sanded the clear coat surface before attempting to add a new coat of paint.

 

I think you are trolling now.

That is insane.

 

You should probably buy a product made for that intended purpose.
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/category/auto-body-paint-prep-supplies/a

 

I've had spotty performance issues with Rustoleum spray paints recently with non-automotive projects. Usually, with extremely long dry times, a day or better and have put some small parts in the home oven at low temperature to get them to dry. I'd seriously think twice before ever using Rustoleum on automotive painted sheet metal surfaces. For automotive painted sheet metal I stick with one of the automotive canned spray paints.

 

I sanded the faded factory paint with 320, 400, then 600 then spray painted with Rustoleum automotive enamel. Paint seems to run alot and places appear in circle almost like a bubble where it didn't stick to the metal at all. and cans spit drops half the time its really ridiculous.
Is this just rustoleum i mean its automotive enamel not just regular Rustoleum, Im not sure what Im doing wrong.

 

Did you do a solvent wipe and tack rag wipe before applying the primer, then paint? Surface contaminates will cause what is called fish eying.

 

The plant I worked at removed all spray lubricates that contained silicone from the assembly areas because they claimed it caused fish eyes in the spray booths even though parts went through a cleaning tank.

 

Silicone and spray paint are mortal enemies. They can not coexist in any environment.

 

I after sanding 320, then 400 grits i wiped it down with mineral spirits. Did not use a tac cloth though. I used to wax the car a ton but this panel the paint is not that faded so im not sure how wax would contaminate the surface if I sanded it first.
I did not apply primer to this panel before adding the automotive enamel but I may try that today.
I would use a spray gun from harbor freight but if I cannot stop the runs and catfish then I dont want to go to all trouble to set up a spray gun.
ALso keep having issues with the spray paint dipping then spraying the drips all over making it similar to runs but thats a separate issue.

I guess I just thought that if you have factory paint thats good sand it 400 or so then apply the new coat of paint but that doesnt seem to work.

 

I know someone that needs to hire a professional.

 

If it were that easy, body work would not be as expensive as it is.
You’re finding out first hand why a good body/paint guy charges what they do.

Humidity alone can make it hard lay paint. Let alone getting everything else right.

 

A lot of Rustoleum rattle cans explicitly state "Not For Automotive Work" on the cans. I bought a can to coat some banged up rocker panels and read it thoroughly. Kept it around because I'd probably need it for some else eventually. Now I'm using it to fix some gouged powdercoating on bed stiffeners that I bought that the manufacturer didn't want to replace due to defects, stating it was a shipping issue. You'd think they would insure their shipments?