Crashnburn80's 1st Gen TRD Double Cab Build

Interesting measurement data of the rolling resistance force comparing Performance All Season tires from Consumer Reports. The Pirelli Cinturatos look pretty good, though the test set does not include Tesla's OEM Michelin MXM4 tires. There are 3 varieties of the Cintuato P7, the Plus listed below is actually a little lighter at 23lbs than the one I listed earlier at 24lbs. (Edit: Ah, the load rating is less on the Plus as an SL vs XL). From what I've been able to find, it seems like the MXM4 do a little better in the wet and light snow though.



I thought this rolling resistance data was pretty slick so I paid for a CR account to see more, however their report test data is just a scale of 1-5 unfortunately, not showing the raw data as they did in the article here:
https://www.consumerreports.org/tir...tires-can-save-you-money-at-pump-a1547901110/

It was a general guideline from my vehicle design courses, if you look around online you'll see the same/similar figures used to generalize the affect of adding/removing mass on wheels/tires. It isn't perfect though, mass near the center of the rotating assembly has less effect than mass on the outside of the assembly so it isn't all equal.

 

Love items with the Toyota OEM part stickers, you know it is going to be quality stuff. New OEM headlights, OEM corner lights and OEM washer reservoir.

 

You might have covered this earlier, but any plans to optimize lighting?

 

As this Tacoma will not be a daily driver after summer, nothing too wild. With the new OEM headlights I plan on running the Osram Nightbreaker +200 since I have them on hand from the latest tests. If buying stock wattage performance bulbs today I'd get the Racing Vision +200s which are good for about 5% higher output than the Osrams. I'll do a test on the replacement comparison, I wouldn't be surprised with a 100% increase with the performance bulbs in new assemblies vs used stock bulbs in 19yr old OEM assemblies. Should be interesting! We'll see where we go from there. I'll add my gy6.35 HIR reverse upgrade, but dial it back to the 25w Osram HIRs vs the discontinued Philips 30w HIRs or the latest Osram 35w HIRs based on age of the truck. I plan to boost all lighting and electrical performance with the Northstar AGM + Voltage booster upgrade, but keep battery size smaller rather than going for max battery reserve like the 2nd Gen. 1st Gen doesn't have stock fogs, I may add some SSC1 Max fogs in the lower valence but TBD. This build will very much be attempting to keep things era appropriate (within reason) and preserve the truck as a Toyota heritage classic while incrementally enhancing performance. The Max performance mods will all be directed at the Tesla Model 3 Performance.

 

A good video from Engineering Explained on why rolling resistance and wheel size is important for performance, especially with EV wheel/tire selection.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYvKxsYFqO8

 

Geez, and I was kind of hoping you were going to install some aftermarket Angel Eyes Alpharex Morimoto Spyder HID / LED / Laser Projector housings with the Advanced Moisture Intrusion and Accelerated UV Degradation options. Maybe next time?

 

^^

 

Just a heads up, the gy6.35 bulbs in the small reverse light housing of these 1st gens has led to mine being burnt and having a melted spot on the reflector. I havent spent extended periods of time in reverse either.

Although I believe I have the 35w Osrams so maybe the 25ws will keep the heat down enough.

 

Pulled the 19yr old hazed OEM headlights today to run some comparison tests against the brand new OEM units.


Original 19yr old OEM unit


New OEM


Still made in the USA


Old hazed OEM left vs new OEM right


Visually the old units did better than anticipated given their condition.


The new OEM assemblies gained about a 44% increase over the old hazed units with used stock bulbs. I had thought the Osram German 9003 standard bulb was stock. Interestingly the new OEM assemblies came with Koito H4s from Japan.



For running stock wattage bulbs, I'd personally go with the Philips Racing Vision +200 H4s as tested here: See updated +200 review in post #3169. However I had a set of Osram Nightbreaker +200s on hand, which tested very well but didn't quite beat out the Racing Visions, as tested here: Osram Nightbreaker +200 in post #4066.

Swapping the Nightbreaker +200s in and comparing to the old OEM units on stock bulbs.
Old OEM left vs new OEM with Nightbreaker +200 right


Old OEM left vs new OEM plus Nightbreaker +200 right


About a +86% improvement in output using stock assemblies and stock wattage bulbs. Earlier I had posted I wouldn't be supposed if it is close to a 100% gain, so the results are fairly on par with what I expected. I didn't anticipate the old assemblies doing quite as well as they did, but my prediction for output gain was reasonably close.

One of the things I forgot was just how small of a gauge the OEM headlight wiring is on the 1st Gens. The 2nd Gens definitely use heavier better wiring, which results in less voltage loss and higher output from the bulbs. @daveeasa I may take you up on that harness.

 

Thanks for the reminder! I'll have to investigate it more.

 

Power or ground switched?

 

These trucks are ground switched

 

Ballin. New OEM headlights + OEM corners running Osram Nightbreaker +200s.

 

This truck is in beautiful condition, @crashnburn80! I look forward to your build updates, especially if you convert to 3-pedals...

 

The washer fluid reservoir had a leak, so I ordered a new OEM unit to replace it. After inspection of the seals and parts, the rubber seals from the old OEM reservoir unit were in impressively good condition. Reinstalled the new OEM reservoir with all the OEM components swapped over and the empty fluid reservoir light came on in the dash. Refilled and the light went out. Kind of an awkward part to install, the original unit had a removable forward fender liner stapled to it. Putting the fender liner shield on the new unit had no staples, so holding the liner/shield to line up correctly with the reservoir and get the bolts through while working around the tire was less than ideal for what seems like a super simple task.



Only thing left of immediate importance is fixing the ball joint/clunk on the driver side front. Then likely further down the road a better tire setup and eventually suspension.

In other news, the Tesla date was bumped up.

 

Tesla headlight drama
In the most recent Tesla model 3 design refresh, the cars were updated with matrix LED headlights. While the matrix headlight functionality isn't enabled yet, NHSTA just approved matrix headlight use in the US in Feb 2022. So the matrix functionality should be available at some point in the future with a simple pushed over the air update. Unfortunately just days ago, it seems the older reflector LED lamps are installed on newly delivered cars. Tesla hasn't acknowledged the change yet. It is unclear if it is a supply chain issue, or if the matrix LED headlights are going to exclusively come on the Performance model 3, as they do exclusively with the Performance model Y. With my delivery coming soon, I'm hoping to see the matrix headlights on my Performance model 3.

 

Fun comparison between my Gladiator’s OEM LED headlights and the 2003 Tacomas new OEM halogen assemblies with the Osram Nightbreaker +200s. It’s pretty close given a 20 year technologically gap. The Philips Racing Vision +200s would squeeze a few more percentage points out, making it even closer. Adding a voltage booster would tip the favor to the halogens or of course the high power bulb upgrade.

 

Except the color temp of the Tacoma is MUCH better.

 

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/oth...AAX2Kwu?cvid=5a1d7f1b9b744f91bbf0640aee346eef

 

I would rather take a Cobra

AC ACE RS electric