Newbie with a newbie question Oil change

I gave up on the drain and just pull the whole cartridge. No real difference in the mess. Still easy to do.

 

Here's the link...it includes the housing plug.

$51 Genuine OEM Toyota New Oil Filter Housing Cap + Plug 15620-31060 15643-31050

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07984MX2G?ie=UTF8

 

Just don't over tighten the filter housing. Dealerships often do that and it can be very hard to remove the next time. Ask me how I know.

 

They make a spin on filter adapter. Pricey but a solid price.

 

Thanks, I’ll look at those.

 

I read something about 18 ft lbs of torque (which ain’t much) but I didn’t want to drag out the torque wrench so I just bottomed it out then put about an 8th turn on it. Should be fine ...

 

I skip the drain plug too. I change my oil in the street in front of my house. I usually make a smaller mess than my neighbor’s leaking vehicles make on the street.

 

Lol

 

Almost all cars are moving towards a replaceable element. Toyotas were spin-ons for years. My 1972 celica was a spin, on, as is every other Toyota up until maybe the 2000’s. The change was what efforts dealerships have to go through to properly recycle used spin-on oil filters, which are a regulated waste. A dealership has to do this sort of thing properly, as opposed to say a “shade tree mechanic”, that just chucks it in the garbage.

Here is a sample of the procedure to dispose of a spin-on filter. It happens to be from Nebraska, but it’s pretty much the same across North America:




http://deq.ne.gov/Publica.nsf/xsp/.ibmmodres/domino/OpenAttachment/Publica.nsf/72F862774C7513428625690A006CE563/Attach/00-058 Used Oil and Filters.pdf

Much easier to just chuck the paper element out.

 

Well said Stocklocker. Less waste is a goal we should all be striving for.

 

This thread here has a lot of good info for doing your own maintenance including proper torque specs.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-diy-maintenance-quick-reference.406712/


On a side note I did an oil change on a Lexus the other day with the same issue you had(same style filter cap as the 3rd gens). Couldn’t shock it open when the cap was still in the filter housing but was able to get the filter drain plug out when I had it removed. Required a bit of Macgyvering with a 1/4" ratchet with an extension and adapter though.

 

I need to save that thread. Lots of self-help maintenance!

 

Very simple....it allows you to drain the canister so that when the canister is removed it doesn't have a bunch of oil in it. That is also the purpose of the plastic insert...it pushes the filter cartridge up so that the canister can fully drain. Its actually a good design.

All my prior vehicles (including my 2.7L Tacoma) use the standard spin-on filter. On those I use a rain gutter spike to punch a small hole in the bottom of the filter so it can drain. Either way, canister or spin-on, be sure to pre-fill with oil prior to install.

Torque values:
Oil filter canister...18 ft/lbs
Oil canister drain plug....9 ft/lbs
Oil pan drain bolt....25 to 30 ft/lbs

 

Instead of using the plastic insert alone, I bought the Motivx oil filter drain to keep the oil from splashing on my TRD Skid.

$25 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Drain Tool Compatible with Toyota, Lexus and Scion Vehicles with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087QQW3S8?ie=UTF8

I will focus on torque for both the housing unit and the housing plug. I should be able to remove the plug without the housing unit twisting off at the same time.

EDIT: Looks like that clip keeps the Housing Unit from twisting off.

 

Other than a problem of getting oil all over yourself if not careful removing the canister....none

 

Orrr…just take it in to Toyota and have them change the oil. Time and energy is better spent elsewhere than changing oil.

 

you should be fine. I did my first oil change at 5,000 miles everything was good
I did not break out the torque wrench. I did what you did. Then next oil change was done at 10,000 at the dealership under Toyota care. At 15,000 miles I couldn’t get the filter off. There is a thread about it. They made it too tight. It would take at 21” long breaker bar to get it loose. The O ring makes the seal not cranking it on tight like the lube tech thinks. you should be fine with an 1/8 turn.