New England B.S. Thread

That's Stop & Shop corporate policy. Even after MA changed the law they kept it.

 

Probably for when they change the law back because MA...

 

I think they have paused taking new requests until they catch up with the back log.

If you go to http://smith-wessonforum.com/forum.php and join there are some very knowledgeable people there. They will tell you everything about that gun, including what the fitter who put it together had for breakfast that day.

Seriously it's a great resource.

 

Ok, are you just thinking door speakers or everything?

 

For sure Fronts and dash, replacing the rear door and hatch seem to be a debatable topic, but I will probably feel better by doing all 8.

 

Cool, I would definitely do components up front then. Separate woofers in the doors and tweeters in the dash. By keeping them as separates it will raise your soundstage (where the sound SEEMS to be coming from). If you do coaxials in the front it will pull the soundstage down!
Coaxials in the rear doors and only if you have the budget, then replace the rear fill.

I'm about to have dinner with my family but I'll give you my recommendations soon.

 

Yup that's what I joined lol

 

Strangely, mine has a similar tag (though I'd have to read the weight adj) and mine is bone stock.

 

Toyota did go through a stage where they apparently overstated the gvwr on certain vehicles. My cousin nad a Tundra and they put a sticker on it that reduced it by 10 lbs when he brought it in for service. Really glad they caught that oversight...

 

So...now my truck can carry...damn...I hate math

 

They should increase the weight carrying capacity as the frames rust out and start losing material, right?

 

True, I mean the 1x2 hole in mine must have made up about 3-5 lbs

 

@Spare Parts

Ok, so I'm going to guess that if you want to replace your speakers and not add an amp it's because you want to make it sound better and not necessarily make it louder. Am I right?
If so and you don't want to add a subwoofer I would recommend staying with a 6x9 component set up front to keep the most amount of bass as you can.
So if you want to use Crutchfield I would recommend the Focal's.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ISU690/Focal-ISU-690.html?tp=106
They have very good sound and they are efficient @ 93.6 dB.
Another choice is to use Taco Tunes. They sell Image Dynamics and those are very good but I'm not sure about the efficiency. If your interested call and talk to Taco Tunes about setting something up for these, they make and sell all the adapters you would need.
The last ones I'll recommend is made by Audison. Super nice stuff but yet still very efficient 95 dB. I can't say it enough, they make Really Really nice stuff!
https://www.woofersetc.com/audison-...-300w-woofers-4ohms-component-crossovers.html
Getting this last set you would need to source you own adapters and stuff which you could still do at Crutchfield or Taco Tunes.
Obviously the rears I would do coaxials that match whatever fronts you choose.

As far as the JBL's listed for your truck from Crutchfield I personally would stay away from them (and I am a big fan of JBL) because they use a very small diameter all metal tweeters. When they design them like this they can get very shrill and be fatiguing to listen to. If you want to keep it cheaper than the ones I recommended then I would tell you to look at the KS series by Kicker. They use larger diameter silk dome tweeters and I've heard they sound pretty good.

I know this was wordy. Sorry about that. GL!

 

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/358830A

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/358810A

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/359150A

If you want an OG swivel and loop I can send you some phone numbers.

Edit: used factory loop https://www.hogislandgunparts.com/Smith-Wesson-Victory-Butt-Swivel-p/sn320-177.htm

 

Finally got my front diff drain plug out... The only con is now I need to buy a new socket
Swapped it with the Lexus counterpart which eliminates the design issue altogether. Too bad the fill plug isn't the same way.

Also the frame is fixed again - finishing up painting the driverside with chassis paint (the parts of the frame I can reach - will need to pull the bed off at some point). Skids are back on and ready to go. Only have to paint parts of the front passengerside eventually, apply another coat of Eastwood internal frame coating and then fluid film both boxed frame sections and plug them.

 

Almost bought those for my last F-150. They seemed like a good bet for something inexpensive. The efficiency number was pretty good compared to others.

I actually blew a speaker recently in this truck - the rear passenger door coaxial has a bad tweeter. It's super annoying with voices, but music isn't as noticeable since other speakers will mostly drown it out. I have an appointment with a dealer next week to have them look at it and a few other little things. I thought about putting aftermarket speakers in but everything I read said the B&O system sees no improvement from better speakers because the amp/tuning limits them.

 

Yeah if you have the B&O system it can be improved but it is going to take a lot more than just swapping in some new speakers!

 

Good thing I'm getting new tires soon....

 

For what it is, it's decent. It's nothing mind blowing but is a lot better than the Bose system in my girlfriend's Mazda. I heard the B&O unleashed in the newer F-150s is actually impressive for a factory system.

 

Get cracking on it..haha see what I did there