Official Crawlbox BS thread!

Next time! Almost everyone installs more than once .

 

"We do it nice, cause we do it twice"

 

I dropped the transmission/t-case as low as I could (thanks @Dan8906) which gave me enough room to remove the two side shifters and get access to the two top bolts. Unfortunately, there still wasn't enough room to tighten the top bolts.



I contacted NWF to see if they had any suggestions, they had two; the first one was to use a half moon wrench, and second was to use a swivel head ratcheting box end wrench. The swivel head ratcheting box end wrenches were pretty expensive around me, and I could not find any store that had the half moon wrenches in stock. I settled on a set of crowfoot open end wrenches which I got for cheap at AutoZone.








These actually worked really well and I was able to get these two bolts tight. Got everything buttoned up, the shifters are in and clearing everything smoothly.
I need to figure out how to make it all look clean and keep the road noise down. I'd don't think the standard triple shifter boot will fit with the way the shifters are offset, I need to find someone to sew me a cover as well.



Since I removed my multi-mode t-case and 4WD ECU (sold it all to a guy today who wanted to swap it into his taco), my ADD is probably not going to work so I need to lock it in the engaged position. Apparently there is a hose clamp trick to keep it always engaged (I have manual locking hubs so my ADD is of no use anyways). My front driveshaft with a 1.25" spacer actually has enough slip to not need re-sizing, rear driveshaft should be done tomorrow.

 

Just get a tube from a manual hub diff.

 

I don't want to remove my diff or inner CV shaft

 

For a shift boot check out Redline Goods. They were recommended to me for a custom boot. https://www.redlinegoods.com/?sscid=61k4_o0go2

 

Can easily be done with the diff in place still, and swapping a cv is what like 20 mins? You just did a crawl box... this is like easy shit lol

 

Don't get me wrong, I think doing this is a much better solution than just hose clamping the ADD actuator in place, just not for my application. I'm SASing in a couple of months, this is just a quick and dirty solution in the mean time.

 

Oh then I def agree with you there

 

She low low now
https://api.smugmug.com/services/em...height=1280&albumId=155076833&albumKey=WzZDQN

So low in fact, that when I tried stalling it, it just does a burnout.
https://api.smugmug.com/services/em...height=1280&albumId=155076833&albumKey=WzZDQN

And for reference, here is single low
https://api.smugmug.com/services/em...height=1280&albumId=155076833&albumKey=WzZDQN

And here is high high, all in 1st gear at idle
https://api.smugmug.com/services/em...height=1280&albumId=155076833&albumKey=WzZDQN

(Sorry about the links, TacomaWorld isn't playing nice about embedding videos from SmugMug which is where all my media is stored)

 

Awesome! What's your final crawl ratio in double low?

 

Should be approximately .... in LL if it's a 5speed

103 with 4.10
115 with 4.56
123 with 4.88
133 with 5.29

Factory is ~52 with 4.10

 

Thanks, wasn't sure what gearing the 4 Runners had and that he has a MT 5 speed swap also makes it different. I think it's nice to have the final ratio with videos so people can get an idea of speeds vs ratio

 

I know someone with a 2.28x2.57+5speed and still stalled on rock. IDK if 0.29 will make a big difference between stalling or not. But it's sure better than no LL.

 

Transmission 1st gear - 3.83:1
Crawl Box - 2.57:1
Transfer Case - 2.57:1
Differential - 4.30:1

Final Crawl Ratio = 108.78:1

Factory it had an automatic transmission, first gear of the A340F is 2.80:1, so the factory crawl ratio was - 30.94:1

 

I'm sure it'll happen, I'm just looking forward to not needing to feather the clutch/throttle while perched on a steep rock face.

 

I don't do any real hard-core trails like some do on here, but I put my crawl box in purely to help save the clutch. My crawl ratio ended up being 113:1 which so far think has been great! Glad you got it up and running!! Fun stuff!

 

Even with the difference in gear ratio between auto and 5speed, the auto will be slower (if both setup are identical minus the transmission difference)

 

Yep. Torque converter. FTW. lol

 

I finally finished with zero leaks. 2nd install. 1st install leaked from transmission. I stupidity used the fist gen t case input shaft that Is 1/10 smaller then the the 2nd gen and fj. It was a bitch to fit in in a 2bd gen auto with no body lift. I did cut and widen the tunnel and it's clocked max 16 or 18 degrees I see mixed numbers there from NWF Instagram post. But it's maxed out none the less. I wouldn't recommend not using their shifter kit as it really complicated the install. Fab skills and mechanical skills are needed. As for those top 2 bolts mentioned they suck. I had to drop the trans and use the tool mentioned above and even then a pain in the ass. More clearance would be nice like the stock case has. I didn't have the problem of the triple shifter as I didn't wait for it. Their triple shifter would of made the install a little easier IMO.