Need help?

So i took off the hooked cotter pin on the castle nut and it went flying. I can’t find it. I called the Toyota dealership and the local parts place and both said they don’t carry it. Can I use a standard cotter pin instead?

 

Yes.

 

Sure. Because that's what you lost.

BTW, you'll find the offending pin about 2 days after you complete your project.

And it's actually a good practice to use cotters in critical spots like these just one time anyway.

 

Thank u

 

Lol. I bought a box of straight cotter pins but wasn’t sure if the “hook” on the OME COTTER PIN served a purpose ? Thanks for getting back to be so quick.

 

If we are talking about the same thing, the "hook" keeps the pin from falling out. The same thing is achieved by bending your straight pin with needle-nose pliers after threading it. As one should do.

 

Ok thanks… you all are the best!

 

There's nearly 100% chance he'll find it embedded in a tire

 

Lmfao… I was thinking it will end up in my engine bay … I’m hopeful it will show up one day on the floor so I can reinstall it

this install is going waaay slower than expected. Kids are not feeling well and wife had to run out for work.… going to go into Sunday at this point

 

Next question: when I’m installing the new coil overs, the bottom of the shock doesn’t align exactly with the hole it goes into. How do I rotate the bottom of the shock to align?it’s close but not close enough. These two parts dont line up when I’m screwing in the top 3 bolts..

 

Just twist it.

 

It’s not moving at all.. maybe I’m tired or not trying hard enough?

 

Verify first the shock(s) you got aren't set up for the other side otherwise just stick a rod or long bolt through the bottom eye after starting the nuts up top slightly loose and twist, you may need a cheater bar to extend leverage you are fighting a 550-650lb-in spring for resistance, it will find it's happy neutral position after being installed and cycled by driving.

FWIW cotter pins are one time use only even if you do find it don't reuse it.

The cotter pin is also just an additional safety measure you should use a torque wrench to fasten the castleated nut to appropriate spec then use a breaker bar to tighten further until the first available window accepts a cotter pin, if it's right their but not quite but closer to alignment by loosening the nut should be removed and the taper rod should be turned slightly before reattempting never loosen to align a cotter pin hole and try to avoid extreme over tightening.

The cotter pin should never actually have to do it's job (act as a sheer pin to prevent anti-rotation) you can also use a small screw and nylock in place of the cotter pin. I did this for my CV nuts as I was take them apart semi frequently and to be "reusable" on the trail etc.

 

Wait oem cotter pins are a thing?

 

A standard cotter pin will work just fine but if you want the oem cotter pin, I have extras and can send you one if you need.

 

You can use a piece of wire hanger also

 

Or multiple passes of aircraft lock wire if we're going that route.

 

Good info and thank you

 

Finally got one coil over installed. Taking a rest and then hitting the UCA. I wanted to post the instructions and grease recommendations for the SPC UCA’s for others.

 

So here is what I learned the hard way.
Don’t tighten the top 3 bolts on the shock much at all till the shock bottom is aligned and the main bolt can go threw the bottom eyelet. Then Tighten up the top bolts. Seems logical now that I’ve run threw it 3 damn times.