TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

TTY bolts or were you able to get ARP studs? That's a fun morning fitting new parts.

I was thinking to get one of those thermo switches and get 3/8" barb connecters so I could move it anywhere along the hose and wire it. Though it looks a decent spot there.

you have an oil temp gauge. I'm going to leave my lines attached to the radiator side as I didn't have problems but i think it does may cause some heat soak

 

For sure. I have so much more to go, not including the engine rebuild

No ARP, just brand new OEM head bolts

 

Yah that’s what I’m using. Derale makes a Thermo one. Comes with barbs but they recommend to mount on the inlet line direct if you can so that’s where mine is right now. I used one on the lower outlet line since it was tight. I can run as is but will fit better. This is a better photo of the Thermo location.

 

Here's something sort of curious. Did a plug swap today on my Z from the heat range 5 AC Delco 41-128 original factory plugs with 28,611 miles on the clock over to some heat range 7 NGK LTR7BHX Rutheniums with the projected square tips. Gaps on the new plugs are .032 and the factory ones were untouched from the getgo, I believe they are .031 if I remember right.

Prior to the swap out this beast would take a second to crank over. I would hear it crank over about 3 or 4 times before it would fire up and after the swap out this thing starts near instantaneously.

The old plugs don't look too horrible, they seem a little fouled, but something in the engine definitely liked the new plugs over the old ones. I don't see them as so bad to the point where they could cause extended cranking, however.

For the mileage they got on them, they seemed to be burning relatively well but I have never been an expert plug reader despite all my years wrenching. Your thoughts?

 

Good progress for sure.

 

Yes. You can splice them. Depends if staying OEM or going to aftermarket. Basically, wherever fits best. Picture for reference.

 

That’s what I figured. Which horns are those? Wasn’t really a though but the stock ones could use a refresh

 

Those are the Hella Supertone horns. Spliced into factory wiring. One wire. Then the ground is used on the same studs that hold the crash bar on.

 

those look slightly rich yet healthy. my guy pulling cans thought my plugs looked too clean/lean. according to @JustDSM my truck is great. cams and internals looked great.

 

delay on finding the right spring keeper/romover delayed us. resume work at 3 today but the truck will likely be down for a week. learning a lot seeing how to remove all the internals. fun process really. thanks for all the support fellas!

 

this pretty interesting to see. hope it kicks off in an hour. so this cam/spring tool i bought is likely single use. so im open to group share/sell when done.

 

It's just curious because they apparently were bad enough to cause a delay in fire up, so I gotta think they were fouled at this point. My initial HP Tuner logs showed I was running 11.0 AFR but I think the AFR sensors lie and so dot he STFT/ LTFT's apparently according to other folks in the Z group.

Eventually at some point here I am going to gather testicular fortitude here to modify the exhaust and add in an AFR sensor for a wideband gauge so I can get more accurate readings from HPT and while I'm at it I may ditch the OE muffler because they are restrictive apparently due to their sheer size. So I may wind up buying an AFe Mach Force XP 3" axle back muffler setup which retains the dual stage NPP exhaust then have it hacked up and put some Black Widow Venom 300's in place of the AFe mufflers, then put on some 6" neighbor haters or 10" Widowmakers if the length of piping allows on the straight pipe NPP side since I love their mufflers so much.

Photos of the AFe setup for reference of my plan:







Photos of the OE muffler:

 

A lot going on there in the oem muffler setup

 

You're not kidding, when I first looked at it I was thinking to myself, "well no wonder they are restrictive." And that's saying a lot because usually the muffler is never the issue.

 

So had a little bit of time to work on it today. Finished up the drivers side URD header install. A PITA is an understatement. I also found out that I accidentally installed the passenger side header gasket upside down so basically had to remove and reinstall that one as well.

Not going to lie, between these headers and the Solid Offroad motor mounts I installed I am concerned about serviceability much less trail serviceability; namely starter access. I’ve had issues with mine after water crossings and although I’ve yet to have to remove it on the trail, I knew how to do it with the stock manifolds and engine mounts.

It looks like now if I need to remove the starter to rebuild/replace it, it’s going to entail removing the drivers side motor mount (to gain clearance and to lift the motor up to remove the header), the header and then the starter… oh and front skid plate, assuming it’s on… *edit* - and probably require removal of the SC!!!

*edit again* - now that I’m thinking about it more the more feasible option would probably be to remove the header from the bottom… no need to worry about the motor mount using that method I don’t believe. I’d have to remove the y-pipe and unbolt the front end of the front driveshaft but I’m pretty sure it would drop right out that way

Anyone with URD headers successfully remove their starter without removing the header?

Seriously debating if the trade off of performance vs. serviceability is worth it for these couple things…

 

ah thanks. worth swapping out the stocks? Maybe ill dig into that later on.

 

Well.... just ordered a Mishimoto aluminum radiator to fix my dropped chisel oopsies. The lifetime warranty sold me. I looked at CSF, but from what I could find it is 2" taller which wont work with some front end modifications I plan on doing.

Never had problems with cooling that weren't self inflicted BUT this truck spends TONS of time idling on trails on hot summer days so I figured this would be a good investment... also will help with the trans fluid temps with all the extra weight I am carrying.

 

Nice! Lifetime warranty is nice. I have CSF and debating swapping it out. They do have a Tacoma specific one that is not taller. The taller one is the 4Runner version.

 

oh shoot! You are so right, I totally overlooked that.

Really doesnt look like anyone can go wrong with the CSF, Mishimoto or AFE... although it seems as if the Mishi has the best fitment of them all as far as the fan shroud goes.

 

Nice choice

This one?: https://www.mishimoto.com/aluminum-radiator-toyota-tacoma-2005-2015.html

Looks very nice. I’d forgotten that mishimoto had thrown their hat into the ring making performance radiators for these trucks.

If I ever end up needing to replace my CSF Fj radiator. This option would be a strong contender.