MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Nope. I have done the brake line elbow, hard line, and the 2x dremel mods. Each have their negative elements. Getting two wrenches up there for the hard line was not fun.

 

At least the front brakes are a snap to maintain. Just did my spring cleanup of the calipers/pins/pads. All smooth as silk again.

 

Anyone know of a shop in SoCal doing this mod?

 

Chez @orangeracer ? The best part about that place is the free beer.

If you have a dremel and a 10mm flare wrench, you can do it.

 

Alright, so I ended up doing this mod. I was already doing that annoying noisy clutch pedal "service campaign" replacement anyway, plus the factory clutch line for me was a bit of a problem. I'd originally planned to just replace the accumulator with one of those fancy S2000 lines, but unfortunately they are ALL seemingly on backorder. Then of course I decided I really didn't like my clutch line bouncing around freely in my engine bay since I lost the mounting point to my driver turbo.

So disclaimer, I replaced the whole line. Yes I realize this is probably the most expensive route. Is there a benefit? Not especially. You delete the soft line section, who's only purpose is to allow the engine to move without bending/breaking the hard line. Soft lines allow flex. So you probably gain an imperceptible decrease in line flex.

More importantly for me, I get one continuous line, and it's tucked away neatly away from the heat of my turbo.

Here is my original line, just hanging out, with the soft line portion having fiberglass heat protection.



If you want to do this, here is what you will need. By the way, I had my line assembled by Pegasus Auto Racing. It's fully swaged and PTFE lined, built to spec.
- 56" 3AN PTFE lined braided hose (I overestimated with 64" so I had a big excess that I had to tuck. 56" is just an estimate. You could probably even reduce it more, depending on your routing)
- 10mm extended neck banjo, 45 degree, 3AN
- 3AN female hose end, 90 degree, mounted at 180 degrees from banjo
- 3AN to 10x1.0mm Concave Seat (Male inverted flare) adapter
- 2x 20mm copper washers (for the banjo)
- 10x1.0mm banjo bolt, 20mm long (It MUST be 20mm - a 25mm standard bolt will be too long)

The reason for the adapter is that I wanted a 90 degree on the side that mounts to the pedal (firewall mount), and they didn't have the inverted flare with a 90 degree. So I just did a 90 degree 3AN and an adapter. I also chose all stainless for longevity. I splurged so this cost me about $100.

Here is the complete line. For the entire line replacement, the 90AN and the 45 Banjo must be mounted 180 degrees from each other. So one points up, the other points down. This will prevent any twisting of the line.


Extended neck banjo with 45 degree bend and a reflection of me taking the picture.


3AN 90 degree end with 3AN to inverted flare adapter.


This can be a confusing topic, so here is a picture of the fitting. The truck firewall side has a female inverted flare (which a convex flare), so you need a male inverted flare (with a concave flare) to match. DO NOT try to use ISO, DIN, or bubble flares.


This is the firewall port. On the opposite side is a very short hardline to the clutch master cylinder.



Once the line is removed, the adapter can be installed.


You'll have to follow the line and disassemble it. If you are careful about removing the hard lines from the line holders, you can reuse them with the new braided line. There are a few mounting points that will need unbolted. Hope you have long arms. I reached up from underneath and unbolted the two on the back of the engine and top of transmission. Reinstalling them was even more fun. Probably not 100% necessary, but it's safer as it'll prevent the line from getting worn down from excessive movement against metal parts. I reused all the factory mounts/ties/clips to mount the new line.

This is a picture from underneath, going up the backside of the engine. You can see the two pain in the a$$ mounts that will need removed. Super fun....


If you are meticulous, you can do what I did and guestimate the heat shielding. The factory line was shielded so I took the liberty of using some that I had lying around to shield it in the same spots. I also prepositioned all the mounting clips.


Side note, the black coated clip didn't end up getting reused for me, so I actually moved it to the bottom of the line to add an additional mount where the accumulator used to sit.


In the above picture you can see how the banjo is oriented. The 45 degree worked perfect to keep it way from the driveshaft and give some clearance from the slave itself.

Something to keep in mind with the 20mm banjo bolt. It's spot on with length. If you use the cheap thin copper washers that you get off Amazon, they are dangerously thin (good ole china). I threw those away and used good thick copper washers and was able to get the 12 lb/ft torque needed without the bolt bottoming out early. 25mm long banjos will be way too long.

I routed my line exactly as the original was (minus all the excess that goes all around above the engine. This big loop is my excess. I tied it in to all the old clips with the brake lines. It comes up from the left side, back down through the clip, then across the firewall under the brake master cylinder. Very clean.


Finally, a nice little pile of all the crap I removed. So many connections....


For what it's worth, this is not for everyone. I did this because I wanted to clean things up and do it reliably. So before you all start crucifying me, I don't care. Between this and the replacement of all of the old clutch pedal hardware for the TSB, my clutch is beautifully smooth and consistent. I no longer have to worry about heat soak from the turbo or my line bouncing around.

If you want to replace just the accumulator itself, you can easily have a short 3AN line made. Just do the 45 degree banjo on one side, maybe 6-8 inches of line, and a straight female inverted flare (convex) on the other end. Here is a rundown. You could spend more or less depending on what fittings you use. Hardline works just fine as well. Just options.

 

I like this... if I had smaller hands and hadn't already done mine, id consider going this route

 

No crucifixion here. But, wow. That's a lot of effort.

I'm happy to hear that it worked out well. That excess loop is a bit of a worry though. An air bubble could get trapped there. Any way to get it horizontal?


I don't think you would get any more pressure loss from flex than the original setup. Braided steel lines are quite stout and the clutch system doesn't have as much pressure as a brake line, where braided steel is a big upgrade that can be felt.

 

Yeah, air could get trapped, but really the factory line had similar spots. Seriously the factory line just went everywhere. Totally inefficient. Just bleed it well. I haven't noticed any air in mine. If you really wanted to you could push it flat during bleeding, or even reroute it a little, but I'm not worried. I also used a vacuum bleeder from underneath to assist with the bleeding, so I actually 'pulled' the air out, versus just trying to push it out with the pedal.

Perfect world, the line would be shorter and it'd just turn right after it came up. Cutting it down to 56" or even shorter would help. Mine is 64". You could probably cut it down to 50" to be honest (the visible portion of the loop is about 8", but there is more below). I overestimated when I did the order just to be safe.

 

i feel that this thread has now come full circle with all of the options on how to do the ADM, this write-up's pretty fantastic!

 

I wasn't aware about a TSB for the clutch. What model year(s) does it apply to?

Edit: Found these links, it appears to affect some 2005-2019 models. FWIW I have a 2020 with 40k miles and haven't had that issue.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-creak-noise-revised-tsb-t-sb-0112-19.635065/
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10164907-9999.pdf

 

2005 to 2019, I believe. The 2nd Gens would needs some real good luck getting that covered under warranty.

I think the 2020s had the upgraded parts noted in the TSB.

See attached.

 

Yeah they added the 3rd gen to the same TSB as the 2nd gen. It's pretty common in the 18/19s I guess. Mine was freaking annoying and started pretty early (like 10k miles), and only got worse. No amount of lithium or any other kind of lube solved it. They ended up adding a bushing to the pedal (it's barely different). For some reason it says it requires a new master, and a new hose as well...but I'm skeptical because they appear to be the exact same. The pedal and bushing are the most important. I'm guessing they resolved the issue by the 2020 model.

 

Mine made a bit of noise that brake grease thankfully fixed.

I am not sure what is up with the supply line and master cylinder either, esp as the 3rd Gen is a major upgrade over the 2nd Gen nylon one. Likely for 2nd Gen applicability?

Unfortunately, a few 2020+ and post-TSB folks have noted squeaks.

The big deal is that the FJ metal pedal appears to be a direct swap. @ShirtTucker did a great right up. I think in this thread?

 

It was in this thread:

 

I just greased the shit out of mine and its still been silence since

 

Gotta love it.

It still makes me laugh at how complex the mold is and how much of a PITA this TSB is, when they had the FJ pedal on the shelf.

 

Yeah I considered going with the metal FJ pedal, but whatever. If you look at the FJ pedal, it uses a pinned mount for the master cylinder, whereas the Tacoma's plastic pedal has a recessed ball and socket type contact for the master cylinder. So regardless I ended up replacing the master cylinder.

The benefit of the TSB, is if you go to Toyota, it's "free". Straight up though, their answer was to add a plastic collar to where the bottom part of the spring contacts the pedal. That little spot apparently is the source of the noise? The new pedal is molded with just a little extra room for the new plastic collar to sit.

 

It sounds like you should be set. I half wonder if some of the noise is break in. I will eventually find out. Haha!

 

You know, realistically, you could just buy the little plastic bushing, pull the pedal off and either carefully dremel out the spring seat until the bushing fits, or use a soldering iron or hot knife to melt it. Probably the cheapest fix.

 

Doesn't sound like it would be that hard to do. Worst case you ruin the clutch petal have to buy a new one, which you would have had to do anyway.