TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You know, I never did notice a cooling issue at all with my truck, but I forget that a lot of folks with these trucks either leave the stock bumper on, which has a somewhat closed off setup by default, so I think I get tons of flow as it is because of my super open hybrid Bruteforce bumper and the Grillecraft grille. I definitely agree though, a lot of manufacturers just design their vehicles for looks without regards to how efficient their planned design will actually be able to cool.

Oh I'm not interested in getting the AFe exhaust for it's mufflers. I'm actually just wanting to get it because of the design, the piping (304 stainless), and it's dual stage NPP exhaust bypass cutouts that's already on it. I have every intention of replacing the mufflers with the Black Widows. I'm currently actually in attempts of contacting their build department to see if they'd be willing to sell me the kit without the mufflers to save some money and divert that money over to the Black Widow mufflers so I can get them welded on by a local exhaust shop that I use and run it the exact same way they have their setup, setup.

 

I believe it. Most of the lines are part of the heating exchange system by operating temps. Insulating the lines may help isolate the temps from an overly warm engine bay and hot summer day. I'm sure I asked before but are you often driving out of overdrive? If so, that's good. On my setup, I'm often lugging the motor if it's in OD and not flat ground. I'm sure I don't know what I'm doing. I'll band aid it by overcooling until I get proper gears.

I decided on two chinesium dual pass coolers with -10AN same side entry/exit. I'm sure I'll get a surprise buying this crap but best I could find for the size and ports I needed. With one cooler, I'll be able to slap on the Derale fans I already have.

Surprised how hard it is to find something low profile and dual pass.

I wanted to use one of these derale finned in 17" but lines would need to run up against gravity (I'd like to mount closer to lower half of the engine)

 

This is what I did, although I don’t have any before/after temps.

 

Yah we’ll see. I never had issues before but with added weight and the blower the game changed. We’ll see if the hybrid helps.

 

Yes exactly this! Seems like a solid add. The header is just asking for cooked trans lines

 

Quick question yall. For those with the URD LT headers with an auto, what did y’all do to fit the O2 Sensor in the location at the collector? Bung is poorly positioned where it interferes with the lines. I’m hesitant to bend the lines being so close to the fitting on the trans. Remove and weld a new bung?? I could also install in the ‘stock’ location but it’ll only be pulling data from a single cylinder…

A little frustrating…

 

Issues like this make me hate automotive aftermarket parts and their lack of precision or even basic measuring... I get that sometimes there are changes between model years, but come on...

 

I had to have a bung welded in up on top for my AFR, but yeah... only pulls from that cylinder. it is what it is..

 

@Lucario Runner , did I just bend the line/s , or did I also weld a bung in down there?

 

Yeah I mostly agree. It definitely took some considerable work to make these headers fit within the envelope provided so I’ve gotta give credit where it’s due but small things like this are an oversight that could very easily been caught imo. The bung Clocked 5-10 degrees further and the sensor would fit perfectly between the lines.

Fortunately they include a bung up top if you want to install the sensor there without extensions but I know I’ll get a better overall picture with it in the collector… worst case though, I’ve got that location as an option

 

Just got the passenger side cams installed. Anyone able to verify timing between the cams and that it’s set as needed for TDC when I get the main timing chain on? Keep in mind I have the URD exhaust cam gears installed… I think we’re squared away but figured I’d get some second opinions

 

In my signature- follow the link to the cam gear thread. Plenty of pictures and a video of perfect timing there.
Looks right with what you posted though

 

Yup, I’ve been referencing that and the FSM through AllData Just wanna be super extra sure I get this part right, it’s the one portion of all this that makes me the most anxious especially with the aftermarket gears!! Thanks for taking a glance and the info

 

Chris,

That's what mine looked like when I did my cam gears last week.

Without the blue however....

 

For anyone interested- what I'm looking at on these cam gear install pics and saying looks good or doesn't is:
1. Is the gear facing forward or keyway just slightly left of tooth it faces.
2. Does front picture timing look correct based on timing marks/chain links.
3. Do the cam lobes appear to be in facing correct directions for tdc.

#3 is probably the biggest one I look for as its easiest for me to tell when something is off here.
Passenger side- I look for the front cams to be facing each other and angled upward at this angle.


Driver side I look for front exhaust cam to be facing straight up and slightly right of center of the tower.
While the furthest back intake cam to be facing upward at about 11oClock

 

Might be an optical illusion, but in the 3rd photo, it looks like the exhaust camshaft lobe is lower than the intake.

 

I saw that too upon rechecking. Good eye

 

We've done it enough to know.

 

Thanks for the input yall, I believe based all of this I’m squared away BUT just in case here is the final configuration of everything… rotated the assembly a handful of times with no problems. All timing components are brand new OEM (with the exception of the intake cam gears) and everything lined up perfectly after rotating, per my understanding of the correct timing setting. Whatcha guys think?

 

Excellent shots of perfect timing. If you don't mind- I might steal some of these to put on page 1 of the cam gear thread for examples.