Turbo BS Thread

I don't know where to post this, so just going to post it here. Should also watch the build process videos.

https://youtu.be/1xHQWu2ZzPc

 

I found a fabricator. I also procured another stock manifold. Now I need to get a turbo so we can see if we can introduce an under-slung turbo that preserves the SAIS into the system. I'm hoping that the manifold/turbo/downpipe can be made to essentially fit in the space that the stock manifold sits.

That being said, I need a bit of input on a turbo. Needs an external wastegate to keep the overall size down, and thinking a journal bearing unit will keep the plumbing simpler. My goals are relatively small (similar numbers to the stage 1 URD/Rotrex kit), so was looking at some of the smaller Boostlab turbos (5757, 5858, or 6057). Your input and thoughts are welcomed, thanks.

 

External WG is smaller than internal? Oh the turbo itself? Not the whole set up?

 

Yes...right? I was going to put the wastegate on the manifold itself and that would make the space the turbo takes up smaller. At least I would think it's smaller...

 

This thread goes on forever and ever lol. I'm back from the dead. Front mount turbo 1grfe setup. Looking at building my original motor this summer and can't find a straight answer on what kind of power others have made or if it's even worth the cash to do darton sleeves and brian crower stroker kit.

 

Just responded to your PM. Now I remember.

Get the sleeves, then internals. You can then have the sleeves overbored a good amount, for over-sized pistons. That will make for a very happy engine. Stock length stroke. You're turbo kit will perform very well with that setup. Even with stock camshafts.

 

Going too small, and the turbo will make the engine be in boost, just cruising. 6057, is my vote.

 

Yeah, and we don't want none of that supercharger style nonsense in here!
I agree though, a 6057 from BL will behave very similarly to a GTX3071R. Quick spooling, plenty of power throughout the RPM range, but just large enough to not be in boost when driving normally, or even up a hill (Unless I'm loaded up).

 

My friend got the BW EFR6758. His was always in boost while towing, or cruising fast over somewhere between 2500-3000rpms. For this reason, I am very curious to see how @BassAckwards turbo performs while just cruising. Shouldn't be too much longer.

 

I could definitely see towing, since you're loaded down. The cruising in that RPM range is real odd- I never get that unless I'm passing someone. If I'm cruising 75 on the highway, I won't make any boost- only vacuum. Exception is obviously going uphill, or needing to speed up. Then it'll build pretty easily.

 

I'd vote for 5757. Full boost around 3k. Get a nice wide powerband all the way to redline. I like the power being right there when I want it. Really comes down to how early you want your power.
All 3 of those turbos will work, if you can stuff them.

 

If that is closer to the GT28, then it very well would be the better option.

 

Yeah it definitely seems that GT28 to GT30 sizes are ideal for the 4cyls, at least. I was actually shocked how quickly my 3071R spooled, especially with the catless midpipe. I basically negated any loss I created by going to the larger turbo by going catless lol.

 

Thanks for the input guys, glad to know I was on the right track. I was leaning towards the 6057 but good to know the 5757 could work possibly work too. Hope to get things moving forward soon.

 

These are popular on the VW/Audi 1.8 platforms. The 3071 is about as big as you’d want and usually relegated to drags, dyno queens, and the odd 1320 wanna be.

 

A gt3071r is actually just a bit smaller than a BL5757.

 

That's pretty huge for a 1.8L. Put one on my GF's 2.0L Hyundai, and it was quite laggy. Until we put on a boost controller to keep the wastegate closed until wanted.

 

Absolutely. Their powerbands are basically 5-6k to infinity.

 

Lol

 

I ran a GT3076R on my 2RZ and had full boost by about 2600 (28psi)
Seemed like a good size for that engine and I used to tow with it and had no problems until my boost controller malfunctioned making 40 psi one day...whoops. It distorted the block so much the front freeze plugged popped out.
I learned a trick, when going high boost on those blocks its best to hit that freeze plug in a couple spots with a TIG welder so it stays in its home!
It was the water that got into the engine that did the damage and eventually giving up the ghost. I ended up parting the engine out afterward and went with the LS swap.
And yeah I need to get more done on that thing now that Im adding that turbo, just been working on other trucks so much I don't even want to touch mine after working all day, haha..