What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Ah that would explain it. If you have long tube headers, it eliminates that support which translates all those twisting forces from the engine into that flange joint just before the cat.


I thought you were talking about the joint just after the exhaust manifold above that support bracket as shown in the image.

I would say that a couple tack welds on that lower joint for you might not be the worst idea. It's pretty easy to get to them if you ever have to grind it off to take it apart.

 

Did some prep work for painting my shell and noticed the seals/edging on the shell are toast... they crumble when touched.



Anyone ever re sealed this?
Any ideas on what should I use?

 

Sum cocking

 

Replaced my shifter bushings, the old ones seemed to look okay still. Either way it has fixed my problem with the shifter not going fully into park.
Here’s the old ones:

 

well yeah, it needs all the cock; but what kind? There are so many to choose from.

 

Yep I don't have anything like that...gonna have to make something though...already could hear the exhaust leaking...yet again after 90 miles on the new gasket. I drive 90 miles a day alot of high way so the motor gets turned up quite a bit lol.

 

Cut it off and install a vband.

 

Not sure on the AP rock sliders about the mounting - looks maybe like self-tapping screws/bolts? IDK, but it seems using bolts and the frame thickness to support sliders might not be strong enough.

 

I have the AP sliders, without the fill plates, and love them. I welded them to the frame. I believe the 4x sliders are weld on only. I would honestly just pick based on lead times, or... if @unstpible plans to part out later, the bolt on is always a good option.

 

Based on my quick research, the 4x sliders seem like the best option based on cost and performance. Although I don't care to have the fill plates.

 

I would recommend the SEM seal sealer stuff.

$26 SEM 29392 Black Seam Sealer - 10.1 fl. oz.

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-29392-Black-Seam-Sealer/dp/B00BI28218

I like that solution better.

 

The 4x sliders were the best option for me based on a couple reasons. First was the cost, they were the cheapest I could find that had a kickout. Second was they were close to me..based in Wisconsin and I'm in Indiana...so they were here at my door within two weeks. Third the owner is a member here and will give a discount code if you ask.

 

Good to know. I just got in contact with southern style offroad, even though they’re a 2nd/3rd gen manufacturer they’re right down the road from me. I’m currently between a custom sso set and 4x

 

I went wide and grew into them

 

If you go 4x cut the frame plate into a pentagon to make welding the top edge easier. Really no complaints with mine. They do what they are supposed to do. Use the kickout fairly often as a pivot point when needing a tight radius turn.

 

New billies, springs, shackles, main eye bolts, and u-bolts, am I missing anything for the rear suspension? Pretty sure I’m going to need to cut out most of the old stuff when I do it this weekend- hoping to be prepared.

 

Speaking of the 4x sliders, I finally got mine welded on yesterday after sitting in my garage for over a year. I had the installer cut an inch off of the mounting tubes to bring them in a bit. Had them installed by 5eight fabrication here in Louisville, pretty happy with the welding and fitment.

 

Extended rear brake line, and a bracket to raise the BPV lever.

 

Due to the width of the u bolt eliminator perches I was going to have to relocate the lower shock mount but the placement would have been too far inboard to keep the upper mount placement. Spent some time thinking about it and decided I didn't want to mess around with relocating the uppers right now. Get it running first and foremost... So I came up with an alternative

Ran out of wire before I fully welded them across the face and back edge.

 

Bump stops?