Any woodworkers?

But, if I purposefully aim for it, and hit it, then I have to deal with that clean up too. I don't have a place to dump a whole shed's worth of crappy 2bys.

 

Burn pile

 

The local FD frowns on such things.

 

coordinate with them, burn practice...

 

Interested in a bandsaw to help cut cost in buying s2s or s4s lumber. With Covid prices has gone up.

would I be crazy to pay $475 for a 1949 delta/Milwaukee with all original accessories except the fence and miter gauge? It has a 1.5 hp motor which is the big plus on me wanting it.

 

I would look to see what size saw blade it takes and see if you can get those easily. I don't know if that saw would have a standard size saw blade or not.

I've thought of that too.

 

$100 at best

 

thanks for the feedback. I’ll ghost the seller and be on a lookout for another machine.

 

Sorry long response. But please read unless you’ve taken down trees like this before. Yes. 18 years as landscape maintenance and construction 6+ years just tree work. Used to trim/remove trees for the power company near Yosemite. Mostly Oak til I moved to Seattle where it’s been Maple and Cottonwood. If you’ve never dropped a tree of this size just be aware that they can be unpredictable. Slightest breeze can change its course or cause it to sit back and pinch your saw. If you can get a rope or cable in it and a truck or some muscle to put tension on it as you start the back cut that would be safer. Just even tension not yanking it over…If it were me I would start by removing those lower limbs as they could become widow makers. Since you are selling for lumber I would use a Humboldt notch. A little more difficult but maximizes useable lumber. I’ve attached a picture for reference. Make sure saw is sharp and cutting straight. Keep some veggie oil with you as a tree this size can heat your bar and add friction to the blade. Notch 1/3 of way through. Start by judging lean of the tree and the contour of the ground. If fairly straight and level, then look at the bulk of the limb wood. Gravity and weight will essentially take this tree where it wants it to go. Once you are relatively confident of path of least resistance start upper cut. I go about 1/4 way in visualizing a 90 degree perpendicular line from middle of the bar as I cut. I will occasionally stop to check the angle of the cut. Once aligned I run it to 1/3 of trunk wood. I then start under cut making sure the cut will line up with top cut. Try not to over cut. If notch cut is stuck pound it out with sledge, then clean up cut if necessary. I usually put sledge into middle of the notch and sight down handle to estimate path. Oil and gas saw if necessary. Have plastic wedges and sledge handy. I keep my wedges in back pocket and sledge within reach. If roped or cabled…have help put tension on tree. Tell them not to try and yank it over. Constant pressure. Start back cut. I usually line it up with top cut and run until bar is buried keeping an eye on it to make sure it isn’t sitting back on saw. If it does get a wedge in it and tap to a depth that maintains width of cut. Continue cutting, but you will want to leave 1 1/2” to 2” strap wood. If tree starts going…pull saw and step back. If not drive wedges deeper without impacting blade. If it still doesn’t go take a little more of the strap wood. Do not cut through the strap as this could cause the tree to spin or snap at an unknown angle. As tree falls have help continue to keep pressure and then get out of way once assured it is falling the right way. What size saw are you running? Length of bar? Most importantly be safe and anticipate potentials. Hope that helps.

 

Wow! This is great, thanks for the info.

 

I just sold one like that, with
fence and resaw attachment
carter bearings upgrade
link belt
enclosed base with door
on a mobile base.

put up on offerup
sold in 45 minutes flat.

On the one I would offer 300. Because 300 will get youba new stylebdelta or rigid, which you will hate if you use a bandsaw very much.

That old one is a tank!

Tanks good!
New chinese junk bad.

 

Agreed. When I was teaching in a Middle School wood shop program, we had one. Thing was a tank. Cut straight and stood up to all the abuse 6th 7th and 8th graders put it through as they learned how to respect and finesse the tools and materials.

 

Wanted to get some dust collection that fit under my table saw. And collected the big pieces of wood my planer produces. So I built a thein baffle.
Seems to do the job

 

Ugly stand for jointer is a success, much easier than trying to muscle around 150 pounds of cast iron. I’m almost through the 18 2x10’s the guys I hired for my concrete patio/footing replacements left behind. I’m almost coming out even with the amount of lumber I haven’t had to buy that these guys left behind.

took Monday off work since it looks like the weather will cooperate, first round of fiberglass going on the canoe, then I get to sand the interior! Woohoo. Ugh. Almost back to actual woodwork now that I can start figuring out trim,and seats.

 

End grain cutting board, and my first vacuum veneer project with black limba and curly ambrosia maple hardwood. Still learning on hinge mortises.

 

Those old "made in America" Delta's will last forever, but I think you would be generous if you were to offer $50. I've seen them for $25 -$30 in better condition then that. The up side to those is parts are easy to source...

 

Nice!

 

Pallet wood to patio table

 

Nice!