Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

Driver's side only so far, but I have the passenger side ready. Less airbags since the seats don't have an airbag in them. Resistors in the vehicle side airbag plug trick the truck so the dash doesn't light up.

 

got it - really wish someone would make an aftermarket kit for swapping the passenger airbag pressure sensors onto a planted (or other) rail.

 

My kit is finally on the way. I was planning to replace the fuel injector O-rings (also called fuel injector seals) during the install. The Maggy install guide says to use part 23291-0V020, but when searching by my VIN 23291-0P010 is Toyota's recommended replacement (which costs twice as much). Anyone know what the difference is between the two seals?

 

not sure about the revised part number - I did like you and mine were the part number stated - and were expensive for a piece of rubber! I just figured the cost was what is was. Pay the price and move forward. I'd recommend going with the revised part - but I'd also ask the parts manager what the difference (other than number) is between the two. Possibly there is no discernible difference other than maybe a different material mixture to ensure they don't fail with exposure to fuel and elements.

 

That's basically what convinced me to move on. I love the size of the Tacoma but after looking at what I've spent so far and what I would still want to spend on gears and suspension it just didn't make sense. New truck will be way bigger but everything else I'm looking for is factory installed.

 

Thanks, that sounds reasonable. I guess it would be pretty stupid for me to cheap out on paying an extra $30 for seals after dropping nearly seven grand on the supercharger.

 

Patiently waiting on my kit to arrive. Is replacing the fuel injector seals a necessary step for everyone or is this based on mileage, years, etc. etc?

 

I'd say based on mileage/use. My truck had 18k - all I did was change the oil and coolant because I had to.

 

some don't replace them - lots to depend on age. I just figured I did not want to find one damaged, or otherwise not usable, when I got to the point of placing the fuel rail on the new manifold. Once you get into the install you won't want to stop. I decided to error on the side of caution and simply not chance it. I had about 50K miles on mine when I did the conversion. Replaced everything I could so I would not have to do it sooner down the road.

 

Did the same with about the same milage.

 

14K on my truck so looks like I'll be going this route too.

 

It's based on milage/ use, but I personally tend to replace (relatively) cheap seals whenever I'm doing engine work because of how annoying it is when I inadvertently damage one and I have to go get a part while my truck is in pieces.

 

I installed mine last May/June timeframe on my '19 that only had ~12k miles. I didn't replace any of the items that were "suggested" and had zero problems with installation, and still only problem I had was the coolant reservoir cap leak after a few miles, but they warrantied that quick and it's been solid since.

 

Where did everyone tap into 12v+, Gnd, 12v+ ign only, and 12v+ headlights; for powering gauges? Not that it matters, but I am installing VLS Gauges sim to @reymataco, I think the color goes nice with the rest of the cluster, and I like that they have no buttons on the face, as I am attempting to install behind the cluster lens, we will see

 

The Revel OLED VLS gauges are great. Matches the OEM cluster well and very easy to see in all lighting. Start up sequence vid is on my Instagram for those interested.

 

@Formidable so you wired as directed, and the headlight circuit tells these gauges to dim? Meaning they do not dim with the instrument control, but you are happy with it.

Interested to know where you tapped into the headlight circuit?

 

I had them professionally installed by a stereo shop while I had other electronics wired up. I assume ignition. They do not dim.

 

Those VLS gauges are next on my list right after my new high pressure fuel pump. My tuner told me Ill be leaning out at the very top end. Today I drove it and accidentally went past 6.5krpm and felt like power was cut. Did a quick scan and there was no codes. Im going take it easy until those VLS guages are in.

 

are you supercharged?

Maggy's fuel cut is 6300 I believe, from what testers like @GoldenBrew and @Formidable have told me.

the stock fuel system is sufficient for maggy's boost levels (although it still leaves quite a bit to be desired in how that fuel is delivered)

The way the Tacoma works, it doesn't use a traditional rev limiter the way most people think of it or are familiar. It uses a fuel cut system. Approximately 150rpm or so before the set value, it'll begin some leaning in preparation to hit this limit.

If you felt like power was cut, you *may* have misfired, but this is typically accompanied by CEL and limp mode as the ecu shuts down affected cylinders to prevent damage (CEL and LM cleared by cycling power). More likely, you hit a set limiter since there was no CEL/LM

 

if it felt like you hit a wall and your tach needle started slowly falling and would not give you throttle control until it had fallen a certain amount, that was the limiter that you hit and it stopped you