TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Not carb legal if it matters or not.

 

As I continue to familiarize myself with the 1GR on this Tacoma and doing some maintenance, upgrades with the currently available parts and state of knowledge with mods, I've got some pulley wrap questions.

Current setup:

• PulleyBoys M45 quik change pulley kit
• 2.6" PulleyBoys quik change pulley (Also have 2.7" and 2.8" that I will rarely use, if ever)
• Roostfactor pulley wrap mod
• Toyota PTR30-35110-AA (DAYCO 5PK1790) - 71.16" OEM belt
• OE spring loaded coupler inside nose, but plan to upgrade to solid poly ASAP
  
• Stock everything else, like the tensioner

Questions:

Bolts: I'd like to remove the Roostfactor pulley wrap. - What are the specs for the stock bolts for the upper idler assembly? (I don't have these since the Roostfactor replaces them) ANSWER: M8 x 20mm Hex Flange Head Bolt

Belt: From reading page one several times, it looks like the "easiest" SC belt replacement for a 2.6" & 2.7" pulley is the 70" Gates AD05R1775 (available outside US). No trimming required and supports both pulley sizes I have.

Or should I just get a green Gates FleetRunner for increased friction since I'm removing the pulley wrap? It looks like I'd have to have two different belts to support 2.6" and 2.7" pulleys, so I'd probably just stick with the 2.6" compatible one for now:

OR should I just keep the Roostfactor wrap and get the OE length Gates RPM belt and call it a day?

 

M8 x 20mm Hex Flange Head Bolt

 

Next question: 4-5th gear shift flaring (4th gear hanging / delay in upshifting to 5th even with little to no throttle input coasting downhill)

I seem to be experiencing the 4-5th gear flaring with the 2.6" pulley... For now, I put the 2.7" pulley back on in the meantime while I am buying a replacement belt and other maintenance items for the supercharger.

Soon, I plan to flush the transmission, clean out the screen and probably install a valve body kit...

Unless, @nd4spdbh / @JustDSM or one of you knows that HP Tuning the transmission would prevent this. I think I remember reading at some point that this would just be a band-aid fix.

 

No sir. The upgrades are simple. A couple footnotes:

- OE length belt is 70.5 inches effective length
- we are looking to aim for the least amount of stress induced on these main pulley retention studs after multiple reports of breakage

That being said, this is the route I personally recommend you go:

- 70.5" effective length length RPM belt (PN provided on page 1)
- Factory tensioner
- Upgraded LFP 50mm tensioner double bearing roller (this is optional, but it ensures decreased wear on the tensioner pulley bearings)
- 2.7 or 2.8 pulley
- No pulley wrap mods

All of this ensures maximum pulley traction, decreased wear on tensioner bearings, and ensures minimal stress on the factory pulley retention studs.

 

Yes, a tune will fix the flare. It takes some targeted correction, but I’ve not had an issue with it returning.

The flare and hang are separate issues.

But the shift hang stuff is a thing of the past.

 

So I don’t need to bother with the valve body kit? Or should still put it on my list, but can fix the issues now with an Overland Tailor tune?

 

Side note, I dropped one of the quick change pulley bolts down on top of the block between the valve covers.

Boroscope camera has a magnet, but… bolt is aluminum. I don’t have a flexible grabber tool on hand, so I guess I waste a round trip to Harbor Freight now.

Side note, the PulleyBros quick change allen bolts are 1/8" SAE allen wrench, not metric, so I had to dig out my super old tools from when I had a 'merican car a long time ago. Going to replace those ASAP with some torx bolts.

 

It all really depends on how you’d like the truck to shift and power goals.

In my testing, the tuning of line pressures is enough for most modest-moderate builds who prefer a smoother/OEM like shift execution. Adding the valve body will firm things up a good bit, but that might be to your liking. So the answer isn’t straight forward.

My suggestion: try the tune first, if it’s not what you want/need. You can always install the valve body later. They’re not mutually exclusive.

 

Answering my own question after doing a bunch of reading today instead of being out in the garage actually working on the truck.

Here's the snout oil change Toyota document T-AI-1178-D.pdf "Oil Service Kit PTR29-35073". The kit itself from Toyota is almost $300!!!
We should probably add this on the first page in the maintenance section alongside the 3-part video series.

A refill is only 120mL? I thought the recomendation was like two 4-oz GM Supercharger Oil bottles (this is 236.59 mL).

There are also good photos and instructions on how to properly seat and align the spring loaded OEM coupler, which someone asked recently.

 

I’d go with the larger volume option for the oil, 4oz

 

Valve body kit helped me with some weird hanging on gear issues.. back before HP was available. Does firm up shifts substantially, and may not be for everyone. But it does pull like train with it and will chirp 35s into 2nd.

 

So I'm aligning the torque converter studs to the flywheel on the Transit motor swap, and noticed that the cat converter is toast. I love this kinda carnage..

 

def firms up shifting! takes some getting used to but it’s a nice add but def won’t give you smooth like OEM if your not on the throttle. Add solid motor and trans mounts and it’s a fun time.

 

yup.

 

If you are talking about changing the oil that you drain and fill through the little bolt holes in the front of the SC... (without having to remove it the SC) then just fill it back up till it overflows out the little fill hole. Mine came OEM with barely any in there...

 

Because a little bit is left in the snout, I'd say it's more like 200ml for a change.

 

It takes one bottle @JasonLee

If it's dripping out of the top, then you are done.

 

You got me wondering, I could have sworn I always use 1.5 bottles. I'm due for a change so I'll have to go do it and let you know...

 

I used 1.5 bottles too. 1 bottle was not enough to drip out