Blew ‘er up on the trail last night.

@CygnusX191 Better be careful out there. Even with a catch can.

 

In all honesty, everyone wants a diesel Taco, but that D4-D conversion just sits.

The big deal here is what @Cereal_killer wants to do about the Christmas tree that will be on the dash. No one has pulled off a swap yet, AFAIK, that did not used a standalone ECU.

I hope there is an easy route, but I am struggling to see it.

 

@Dirk Diggler the plan is to reply to every idiot asking how to make their exhaust sound more like meso’s truck or tacomabeast (sorry to put those two together in the same sentence but we’ve all seen the threads) with an exhaust sound clip and whatever bullshit hashtags I come up with off the top of my head at that time.

 

Didn't @jberry813 do it in a 2nd gen?

 

As I mentioned above a stand alone cluster will replace the Toyota dash. I don’t have time nor the personal desire to deal with that level of integration. Slapping junk yard LS’s in things is as basic as it comes, there will be no new developments from me here. I’m just an idiot with a welder and efilive.

About the most I see electronics wise is taking manual control of the ADD, do you have any reading material on that subject (motor swap related or not)? Research begins now!

 

Yeah. Your post came in as I was typing mine. You seem to have all of that sorted.

I really hope that it works for you. If it does, it may finally open the flood gates.

BTW, I am curious WTF that pin / bolt in you pan is from. It is stumping me.

 

@tonered thats an oil squirter for the skirt of the piston to not have to rely on splashing / dripping.
(Random google image, not a 2GR)

 

So just thinking out loud here, and there may be several reasons why not, but what if you could temporarily close the vent line in between the pcv and intake while on an incline or camber? Maybe even wire in a simple inline solenoid valve you could actuate via a switch on your dash when you need to? Once past the obstacle and level, idle for a bit to let the heads drain, open the solenoid valve, pcv opens and presure released.

 

Good question. I’m also wondering if right side camber is okay, where left side camber is a no no. Or vice versa.

 

Someone just needs to make an aftermarket valve cover with the pcv on the outboard or inboard side like most correctly engineered engines....

 

You can swap the front add for a FJ tube which effectively locks the front full time. Than just get a manual transfer case that has full internal disconnect like a nv231/241 like i have. throw a 4l80 or 6l80 in and your set. but yeah most standalone ls harness's only need a power wire, brake light wire, ignition and power. Only issue you would run into is if any of the factory systems quit playing ball when you pull the engine and the cluster.

 

Thanks!

 

Damn dude, who pissed in your cheerios? And why did you decide to take it out on this thread?

Im sure Ive been damn close to 100 miles from pavement before (no need to worry yourself, it was in the lower 48). And I know for a fact Ive been at least 35-40 miles from cell service as the crow flies. Which corresponds to probably 40-45 miles from pavement as the crow flies, if you really want to measure it that way.

Right, how could I forget..

 

Anyway back on topic.. damn dude, that sucks. My vote is always for a 4 cyl Cummins swap

 

Cool story bro, I owned a Jeep once and the only thing it was good at was crawling over shit in low range, traded it for a new 2003 Tacoma when the transmission started going south at 80k miles

 

pfffft….12V

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AO4DRjbPtKg

 

Sorry to hear OP. Just curious, how many miles were you able to get on that motor before this unfortunate incident?

 

It had 67k with meticulous maintenance. Barely even broken in.

 

I would think that if there was a aftermarket oil pan with baffles in it ,and deep sump this may be avoidable.

 

“off road” issues are easily fixed with a hair dryer.