Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

That’s why I thought the tundra rack was the solution, because full lock with that is like 85% of tacoma rack and would give enough of a gap for deflection. I’ll shave some off of the tab as well as be mindful of full lock, but just wanted to share my experience to inform others as well as see if anyone else has experienced the same (which so far, seems like I’m the only one).

At least this time it just barely knocked the banjo bolt loose so all I had to do was tighten it down and bleed that caliper and it made it 300 miles home.

 

I have to add some more structure in that area. Also going with a thicker skid. I already pushed mine in on that area.

 

I have had my banjo bolt apparently come loose 2 or 3 times on the passenger side, but never broken, and I've been able to just snug it up and be okay.

 

I’m curious to know exactly what keeps moving on you. That seems mind blowing that even with a reduced steering radius it’s still making contact. Definitely going to pay super close attention on mine because that’s the last damn thing I need 50 miles from any form of cell service or civilization.

 

That was my thoughts as well and why I wanted to share, just to continue the discussion and share some info.

Edit: it’s also why I started carrying spare banjo bolts and a new brake line. After losing brakes I realized how crippling that could be.

 

Are you running delrin rack bushings?

 

There is a ton of stuff to do but i think the waterfall hikes etc might be too much for your preggo wife in that heat. 99% of my experiences there are all surfing & snorkeling related over on the NW corner of the island we only spent time in San Juan on the days we flew home. If you do make it over to Isabella go to Shacks Reef it is a huge live reef right off the beach I believe it is still one of the best snorkeling destinations on the island.

 

No, just rubber ones so I’m sure it’s just from rack deflection. Even poly bushings would probably be enough to stop it.

 

Its one thing to pop a rear line. At least you still have something. Front line on the other hand is pretty much a no drive situation. So definitely a little freaky.

 

I’d love to go snorkeling, but that won’t happen this trip. She’s half ass preggers so she’s in that rage stage where she’s not actually hiking, the earth is just terrified and rotates underneath her.

 

Not 100% accurate. I cycled this weekend with the secondary shock in place and the banjo bolt makes contact with the lower eyelet on the secondary shock at full droop & lock. No load applied.

If there was one thing I personally wish would change on the kit it would be to retain the steering stops for guys wanting to keep the factory steering setup. Just my opinion though, it’s difficult to appease everyone and this particular issue hasn’t been a problem for me… yet.

 

I didn't cut my stops off mainly because of @EatSleepTacos issues. Mine cycles fine with them left in. At least they are an easy cheap piece to replace if you decide you want stops again.

 

yeah, I’m going to keep my eye out for a pair or the adaptors in case this becomes a problem in the future. So far I haven’t added the secondary shock. Just have to be super aware to not have the wheel cranked when flexing out. Haven’t had any issues but the possibility is constantly in the back of my head when wheeling.

 

It’s 100% accurate as I’ve personally cycled more kits than I can count, it gets really close but doesn’t hit if you trim the factory steering stops correctly

 

Yup. Used some extra limit strap tabs I have for the mounts and 3/16” plate.
Figured make it easy to fix or replace if/when I bash it in.

 

I scored a big chunk of 1/4 aluminum for free.99 so I think that's what I will do mine with. Trying to keep as much weight off the nose as I can.

 

The kit uses the OE LBJ adapters that have steering stops on them so isn’t it just a matter of personal choice to cut the steer stop off of the LBJ adapter ? It’s not a component of “ the kit “ right ?

As long as I can remember this has been a “ damned if you do - damned if you don’t “ issue with aftermarket kits. IE: people complained about their powder coat getting rubbed off the LCA from the steer stops so then manufacturer’s started including in their instructions to cut the steer stops off. A couple brands like DK added a steer stop “ bumper” to the LCA basically just a piece of stainless steel so when the steer stop ground off the powder coat it didn’t rust…but then that limited turning radius horribly. I had the stock length DK kit and ended up completely removing the steer stop piece because I couldn’t even make a U turn without a 5 point turn…

So, what is the perfect solution ? It won’t be a universal solution because of folks with aftermarket big brake kits etc.. so a customizable solution?

Seems like trimming the LBJ steer stop to fit your personal needs is the way to go ? but then your steer stop grinds the pc off and then you get rust etc…my last kit had pretty serious gouges in the LCA from the sharp edges of the OE steer stop so I ground the inside contact edges 1/4 round.

Or grind the oe steer stop flat and weld on a piece of 1/4” just big enough to cover your bump & droop zone ? that’s similar to what the drop bracket kits do to limit steering for tire clearance…no kidding

Maybe drill and tap the LCA and put a 1/4” thick delrin “ pad “ on the back edge of the LCA and trim the oe stop flat & smooth edges so your not grinding the LCA metal on metal ?

 

Drilling and tapping a steering stop with a Delrin pad that’s trimmed to the users preference is ideal if you like to mash the steering stops

 

We left mine. I'm already tight on clearances. So, it was easier to leave em. yea, its making marks in the PC but something I have to deal with.

 

I might be pulling my stuff apart to coat a different color. If I do my plan was just to put a bead down where the steering stop contacts so the arm its self isnt a wear part.