Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

Got the pin out. Should be an easy fix for a welder, if I don’t do it. I also need install new grease zerks. M8 why?

 

The stump grinder drum brake is a piece of crap. The lever and shaft are made out of extremely weak metal and the teeth rounded off on both the lever and the shaft. Any ideas for a permanent fix?

 

Tack weld it, maybe. I know it’s new but there isn’t much option with them things.

 

Sometimes, if someone put in where they were close to, I'm pretty sure someone with a welder would be very happy to do a bit of grind and burn. Heck, sometimes I get bored and LOOK for stuff to burn, especially if I just dropped some coin on some new welding toy. [hey, better YOUR stuff then mine.]

 

Carefully drill out a hole between the clamp and shaft and drive a roll pin into it, make sure you have enough length to be able to grab it with a pair of old wire cutters and remove it if you need to take it apart. The roll pin will be big enough in diameter to keep the shaft from spinning on the clamped part.

 

Hmm, you might be a genius. I am over here trying to complicate things when it could be that easy. Now to find a welder to tack weld it.

 

Did it have a bolt in it? There’s supposed to be a bolt to clamp it if there wasn’t one.

 

Looks like an atv shifter. I thought there were some aftermarket higher torque shaft clamps. Let me look.

 

Yeah, it did. I removed it before I took this picture. I put some lock tight on it and cranked the crap out of it. Seems to be working for now but I know it won’t last since the teeth are already rounded off.

 

It almost looks the same as the drum brakes on my kids pw50. The teeth on that shaft are much bigger.

 

Roger that, thought maybe it could have fallen out or was never installed. It was worth a shot

 

Whew! Long day here and hot as hell. It was 85F but high humidity made it "feels like" 96F. I got it as good as I could but ended up short on gravel even after scooping some from where it ran off and dumping it in the channels the torrent cut.

I did get a little gutter cut. The goal is for it to stay to the right (in the vid)and not cross and cut the bottom where the hump is in the pic.
https://youtu.be/RpSYKAsb-g4

 

Haven't worked on the tractor in a while, so kinda forgot about this thread. Sorry.
Now that I have my property paid off, I can work on it without getting permission (contract stipulation). I have been drawing out everything that I want to do on it to make it a comfortable private campground. After considering all the dirt work I am going to need, I have decided that I will be ordering a HF towable backhoe. I'm going to do the 0% interest for 36 months instead of cash since I already had $ budgeted for the property payment and it'll be easier for me to make the small payment and dump the rest into savings for gravel and concrete.

The plan is for a 20x30 slab for the truck/trailer/patio, 10x10 slab for an above ground water tank, and maybe a 10x10 slab for an outdoor brick cook station. I am also heavily considering a root cellar/storage.
Between the tractor and a backhoe, I should be able to save enough on dirt work alone to pay for the backhoe.
Not to mention digging a drain field, trenching from the water tank to wherever the well will end up and the concrete pad for a pump house.
I have done some research and have already figured that I will change the hydraulic pump, add a weld on thumb, add a stand for a tractor umbrella, and modify the crap out of the axles and legs to make it easier & more comfortable to use. Thinking the front will get flip up axles mounted on round tube that will be pinned in and the rear will get straight axles with ag style tires. I'll put quick connects on the hydraulic lines at the valve, that way I can take the arm off to put it on the deck of my trailer so I can transport the tractor and backhoe in one trip, but I'll have to put the rear blade in the bed of the truck.
I thought about modifying the backhoe to a 3 point, but I don't know.
I am thinking I will stay in this job until the end of Jan next yr. That'll be 1yr and 7mo on the job, and will give me about 4 months off before the start of the following fire season to give me time to get some work done before getting back on the job again if I choose to.

 

Do I weld the hinge on so that the gate can be removed, or like the original where the gate cannot be removed?

 

If you think you'll ever need to take it off do it so it can be taken off. The only draw back to that is it could fall off unintentionally if it's free enough. If that makes sense.

I like the option of being able to remove them.

 

Removable, even if you don't ever need to remove the option is there. I have taken mine off a few times over the years for various loads. Easy to remove, tough to put back on alone.

In the upright position there is no way mine could fall off.

 

Same here, when I put ramps on my small trailer I made them removable but can't fall off when up. I've taken them off a couple times for a couple loads.

 

I also wonder if it is supposed to fold forward flat. Anyway, I put the gate back in the up position for now, this aligns the gate and allows for the hinge to be welded back. I need to find a welder or buy one… all of a sudden this “deal” is a a money pit.

 

Mine will also fold flat forward.

...most of my "deals" turn in to money pits...

 

Ooof, I feel that one...

Almost picked up another cheap beater (could have gotten it for the tow bill) but know better this round