Home Improvement Today?

I bought 2 sleeves & 2' of 1" pipe. I won't worry about sweating it off, just hack it all off & use the sleeves to get both sides back to where they need to be for the new elbow.

 

I live right next to the river. Painted house has to be refinished often.

It like my neighbor cement driveway. In the winter, water get underneath the driveway, then expands. I can see the driveway lift about 3" to 4" plus in the winter. When Spring comes and the driveway goes back to normal height.

 

Does the skinnier column/post have more strength?

Is square column/post is better than round, or vice/versa? Is it just appearance?

My old porches crack at the the railing support lags. Is this an issue to worry about with the new porch?

Is there anything that I can use to support those area better?

 

Just appearance, they bear the same load.

Really depends on how big and how deep the cracks are. Ultimately you want the lags in solid concrete.

Core drill the posts as opposed to lagging them. More work, but definitely more secure.

 

Thank you, Sir for answering all my questions.

I'll see if I can take some pictures of the damage area. This way I can prevent this from happening again.

 

Does anyone knows if I can connectl a PVC J pipe for the drain with brass fittings.

Picture of brass fitting.





PVC J pipe picture.

 

Why are you wanting to replace the collar with brass? The pvc ones work just fine.

 

Seconded

 

U mean to replace this
If so yes it will work but it’s unnecessary as posted above and you’ll have to be careful not to overtighten as it will chew the pvc fitting up.
Or maybe you’re trying to hook up a kitchen sink drain and that is the piece that came threaded on the drain basket. In which case you’re going to need a tailpiece lol

 

I've had houses with the above. It works, but plastic on plastic looks better and well metal on plastic gonna chew threads and LIGHT wranch if any wranching.............

EDIT Well shit truch beat me to it. saying the same.

 

Another adventure in my finish carpentry journey lol. I'm not sure if my OCD is good for this hobby, or if this hobby is terribly horrible for my OCD. Either way, don't care.

So we have a string of 3 windows and we're using flat stock in a sort of modern-craftsman style to trim them out. Problem is, we're trying to make a 1970's home look like a new build and nothing is level, square, or proportional. I tacked-in the trim and noticed the spacing was off right away. Looked like crap.


I even put stuff back together a bit and took a photo of my dog to send around to people and they spotted the issue without context


I measured the gap on the right and the gap on the left. It was 11/16" difference. Now I don't know if this is how you're supposed to fix this -- I actually don't know anything -- but I ripped 5/16" off of some casing material for the side with the closer spacing. Theoretically this would scoot me to within 1/16" of the other side. Then I took some sand paper and eased the edges to match the factory edge:


Compared to a full-width casing I guess it's kind of hard to tell the difference? At least it was good enough for my house. I'm kind of banking on an optical illusion here. Two of the casings are going to be 5/16" skinnier than the others. The left and center are the ripped ones, the one on the right is full width.


Then I cut 5/16" off of the apron and header to keep my overhangs the same. This is what it looks like now after paint:


Short of re-shimming these windows I'm not really sure how else I would have gotten the gap even on both sides. Think this will fly?

 

Yes.

At this point, I think you are the only one who will notice the spacing.

My OCD gets to me as well - my house was built in the mid 90s, and there is no corner that is 90*. You just have to accept it - no always the easiest thing to do.

Tweak and shim like you did, wipe in a little caulk, slap on the paint - you did a better job than 90% of the people building houses. Oz excluded.

 

Thanks Scott! You’re right on all accounts and it’s a pain in the butt square peg round hole for every seemingly easy task.

 

My OCD would be ok with it. I could tell the ripped casing was skinnier, but that was only because I was looking.

 

Far less noticeable now.

 

The brass pipe from the house is solder on. There's no way to remove the brass fitting without cutting or unsoldering the brass pipe, then slide it off. I want to use the brass fitting that I can't remove with the PVC pipe.

Do I need thread sealer or something? To connect the PVC to brass fitting?

Will a chrome J pipe work?

Since it's metal and available everywhere. The brass J pipe, 3 plumbing supply stores says, good luck finding one. Home Depot has to order it the pipe but not sure when it will arrive.

 

Yep.

I've ripped a lot of case case to fix reveal issues. As long as the reveals are close you'll be the only who ever notices. It was the right way to address the issues.

 

I think at this point, we might need a photo of your project.

 

Agree on the pic

No sealant should be required

On one hand if the only choice is a brass nut it might work. But something seems goofy.

 

That’s good to hear! The reveals are very consistent on all of the aprons and side casings. The header reveals are pretty off, but I didn’t spend a bunch of time fighting them as the valence on the roller shades we ordered is going to slot into the header reveal pretty tightly covering it up. It was more important to fudge the header reveals an 1/8” here and there so the tops of the headers themselves were level across neighboring windows.