Oil change disaster advice needed

I remember the base auto hobby shop. Good times...(Ex-Navy)

 

Who torques the filter housing? Good N tight. Next thing you know we should be torqueing the plug AND using a new crush washer. Sheesh!

 

This thread is becoming a classic.

 

I took it as an expression (because come on, man!) and not literally. lol

 

Yes! I've had my rotors turned there for $15/EA when I owned my 2003 Honda Pilot and changed brake pads.

I recently spent 2 hours R-squaring (R2*) my OEM Headlights to OEM LED Headlights.

This thread has injected many opinions/experiences about oil changes which benefits the group.

As for OP, he needs a new engine with fresh warranty and a Big Time Apology! That dealership needs to keep their customer happy during this terrible situation.

*R2=Remove/Replace

 

Your info lists 2202 4 runner. Typo that i just thought was funny

 

Let's all remember oil changes are not done by the highest level techs in the dealership. If you get lucky you will get someone who cares and treats your car as if it were is own . I like to do my own yet unless it's to cold to do. I'm 65+. Mostly because of what I've seen from some of the service writers. I don't want to be sold on unnecessary service recommendations based on mileage and not sight . Most don't know it for some extended warranties it can be voided if proper maintenance is not done based on mileage if he does not see it done by yourself or other shop. I list everything I do on my care app. Get a but hurt service writer wanting to boost his numbers for a pay check and your screwed. Check the fine print on a extended warranty.
OP said they are trying to locate a truck for him sounds like he's close to a final resolution.

 

Bullshit.

You only have to be 3% smarter than the housing to prevent overtightening.

 

This thread has gotten so derailed with nonsensical arguing, I'm not sure some of those whom have posted even saw this...

Rooting for you @Rannyhill !

 

You mean whats the estimate of the cost to replace a tacoma shortblock? No idea, doesnt matter unless you want an indy shop to do the work, and if they do the work, you don't get warranty coverage so why bother. and dont waste the time of a shop calling them if you arent interested in going there either. Let the dealership do the work. Again, they have responsibility to put you back into the position you were in prior to their mistake, which is a 2021 truck with 7k miles, and 53k left on warranty. nothing more. sounds like they might even be doing better. you have no reason to complain other than the inconvenience of the thing, for which I am sure they have provided you a loaner/rental.

 

LOL, my thoughts exactly. I think @Rannyhill had asked another person what it might cost to set his truck right. I'm guessing, but I think a good round estimate for full engine replacement would be in the $10k range. The dealer likely took this into account when determining how they would make things right. Their cheapest way out right now is to take the truck on trade-in and sell it as a CPO. They'll likely not be out much, if anything, and they keep a repeat customer.

 

this is most likely correct.

 

yes, it starts feeling tight to turn when there is still at least a full turn to go.

 

hand tightening mine does not even get mine close, there are still like 2 full turns left to go on mine with the ratchet . it feels like i am stripping it but am not, i am about 10 oil changes in on my 16, same every time.

 

Opps, I wasn't supposed to let you folks know about that, I will have to correct it and hope that it's never able to be found again.

Nothing to see here, just move along now...

If this happened to me, and they didn't up the warrantee or make it better than when is began, I would be pissed and making sure everyone knew that dealership put the screws to me with no lube.

Their job is to make the OP talk good about the situation, that means things are better than when they screwed up.

 

And if you do this gorilla move with a metal housing, you just run the risk of even more damage, stuckness or galling.

The Oring does 100% of the sealing in this situation. Whether you use 1000lb/ft or 0.0001lb/ft of torque, that Oring doesnt care. It's not going to seal against the outside any more or less.

Physics.....

 

We're learning more and more each day until OP's issue is resolved.

All I've ever done with traditional oil filters (the ones everyone are use to) is hand-tighten it until I couldn't twist it any more (without gorilla torque). The rubber ring (after I put oil on it) on the oil filter created the seal.

I never had a problem removing it with an oil filter wrench at the Auto Hobby Shop.

 

their job is to return OP to the condition he was before they made a mistake. BUT you are right, they should do better, if they want him to talk nicely about it.

 

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that has been my thinking all along just never mentioned it here.

 

Show me all posts of people complaining that they get the aluminum housing stuck on by over torqueing. These are lubricated threads that are very large you will destroy the tightening surfaces before you gall or damage these threads.