Oil change disaster advice needed

It’s been more than 20 days. Nuts that this hasn’t been resolved.

 

If the O-ring survived being stretched over the housing and worked into the ring groove, it would have done the job. Cut, nick whatever if the material was in place it would have compressed and sealed. A severely compromised O-ring would have broken during installation.

Even if the O-ring was faulty, the critical act was the tech did not perform a leak check after the service.

This is on the 100% on the dealer. The dealer may blame the O-ring, the filter, the design of the housing and probably Trump too when he's trying to browbeat OP into believing the idiotic excuse...but he knows better and will not ask Toyota to cover his screw-up.

 

i have been corrected, the T Bird was the new look version that came out in the early 2000's.

 

I did my oil change yesterday (first time in a really long time that I’ve done my own) and used a torque wrench on the canister. It ‘clicked’ right about the time I was thinking “that’s just about right”.

I think the problem with the dealer guys is they do so many, they think they can do them with their eyes closed and are busy chatting with their stall buddies and listening to their EarPods.

 

I don't understand why we have to torque everything now. Any good mechanic can tell how tight something needs to be, based on the material. You don't tighten brass, copper, or plastic the same as hardened steel. Maybe it is inexperience or too many YouTube videos causing this.

 

There's nothing wrong with doing something to spec.

 

Mongo dont know own strength

 

I’ve always done all my own maintenance and I can fix most things I have the proper tools for, but I wouldn’t insult real mechanics by calling myself a “good mechanic”. I bought a torque wrench years ago for the sort of stuff they’re really needed for (camber bolts, crankshaft pulleys, lower ball joint bolts, etc…). But since I have one, I’ll use it on stuff that I could do without it, but I figure why not be exact? I’m not gonna bust it out to make sure my coolant overflow tank is torqued to the right ft. lbs., but for things like diff drain plugs, u-bolts, thermostat housings, etc… I think they’re nice.

 

Classic signs of an inexperienced tech..
over-tightening the shit out of tiny bolts and leaving big bolts loose

Generally speaking, the size of the fastener determines the range of torque

 

what is the correct torque setting? thanks

 

I have torque wrenches and do use them when they are really warranted. But for routine stuff like basic maintenance that I have done a bazillion times (like oil changes), I usually just employ the "ugga" method. Light duty stuff gets a single ugga, medium duty stuff gets a double ugga; you get the point.

PS: Your Ugga mileage may vary!

 

How is the the correct torque setting determined and by whom? Again we could be dealing with an engineer that really isn't the best at his job.

 

Equipment has changed quite a bit over the years. Engines, transmissions and even transfer cases were manufactured from cast iron years ago. Almost everything on an older vehicle was more forgiving to ham handed treatment than it's modern replacement.

As a semi-relevant example: In the early 80's Chrysler 4 cylinders used torque to yield head bolts, they were one time only use, the replacements cost about $18 for the set from Chrysler IIRC.

"Good, experienced" mechanics didn't read the manual because it was "just a head gasket -- done 100's of em" and reused the bolts. That lead to repeat failures. 5 minutes of reviewing the manual and $18 could have saved the customer return.

Manufacturers provide specifications for torque, lubricants, procedures, etc. -- sometimes they really don't matter that much, it is prudent however to look them up and make a conscious decision regarding them rather than simply going by experience alone. Usually following the published procedure will insure a successful outcome.

 

You have to trust someone now and then -- when in doubt I think I will gamble and trust the engineers employed by a worldwide multi-billion dollar company.

 

Excellent example. IMO for the magnitude of that job it seems prudent to replace the bolts anyway considering what's on the line, but especially since the manual dictated it.

 

How many of you really think you need to torque your oil filter? The canister type has always been hand tighten in the past.

 

Agreed...instructions were to twist 1/4 turn when seal/contact is made.

As long as you put a dab of new oil over the rubber seal, it would check good!

Check for leaks afterwards...always!

 

finally, the bottom link answered my question, 18 ft lbs..thanks

 

Why would Toyota get involved? This was all the dealers fault!