Aluminum oil filter housing downsides?

I see the aluminum housing as more of a "mod" rather than an fix for a problem - which doesn't actually exist.

Now the coolant bypass valve is another story. I did have that problem-on the top front of the motor though. 600 miles on my 2019 and found a puddle of coolant on the garage floor. The valve was cracked (probably during assembly) and replaced under warranty obviously.

 

I was really upset contemplating on calling that dealership that did their oil change (They purchased it pre-owned at a Land Rover / Jaguar dealer). Finally cooled off and did the rest of the needed maintenance on their RAV4. What's the purpose of changing back and forth with the housings?. I already ordered another aluminum housing for my Tacoma, hopefully I don't run into this issue again on my own vehicle. (serviced at my local Toyota dealer).

 

For me, it validates usage compatibility.

Yes, it's an OEM product but I still want to verify fit/finish.

That's just me.

Fixing someone else's error in an Oil Change is all we can do and hope they did not damage the engine thread where the housing is mated.

 

Elastic deformation. Threads provide leverage to distort the stop flange angularly to direction of travel. This slight bending of the stop flange is similar to driving a tapered cork into a bottle, it doesn't take much pressure to push that cork in...but getting it out is another story.

This has been proven time after time and still there are those that swear "the plastic gets tighter after being heat cycled" (just dumb)
and that Toyota cheaped out putting a plastic housing on since they use aluminum on Lexus models (Reinforced nylon will withstand an impact much better than cheesy ass thin wall die cast aluminum. Stomp on one of your kids die cast aluminum cars then stomp on a Lego, see which holds up better) The Tacoma is much more likely to take a hit on the oil filter housing than a Lexus. Parts are engineered for a reason.

 

At the end of the day if buying and installing aluminum one makes you feel better then you should do that. I’ll keep using the composite housing made from recycled post consumer waste products do the install correctly without over torquing and either one works like a champ.

 

I am highly considering one of these. But the chance of having a warranty/recall issue come up and having to remove it before taking it in seems like a pain.

This brings back memories of the MKIV VR6 "crack pipe" issues. There's an opportunity down the line for an all metal version to be sold.

 

Didn’t read it all… but first few sentences just looked like preaching to the choir here.

 

Ok, I did the research and now have the answer....
The plastic is better than the metal!
The reason I came to this conclusion is because a Toyota parts place I often use has the Plastic part for $36.96.
They have the Aluminum part for $28.50.
Since the plastic part cost more, it has to be better...right?
All kidding aside, on the Conecelli parts web page it does say the plastic housing, part number 1562006020 supersedes the metal housing, 1562031060.
It also cross references a bunch of vehicles the part fits.
No affiliation with Conecelli but I have bought a lot of parts from them over the years from FJ40 parts to my current 21 Tacoma. Always fast shipping.

 

I'll let you in on a big secret the domestics, GM, Ford, Chrysler, don't seem to want to share. They've been using newton meter torque wrenches in house for low torque bolts since the mid 1980's. I know, I was there.

 

There was another thread that was hijacked with this subject. Rannyhill. Anyways, i used the the composite housing a couple oil changes. No real problems. Was somewhat hard to turn with my hand. I could do it until the side sealing oring made contact, which I lubricated with fresh oil. At this time, I put the ratchet and motivx tool on it and turn it until the flange on the housing made contact with the manifold, which, by the way is a separate piece, not part of the motor block. The composite housing seems to get tighter at the end of it's travel but still mates up fine, and I just give it a little wrist snug. I'm sorry I just don't understand what a torque wrench does. (flame away) Anyways, I have had the aluminum housing for the last 3 changes and I can turn it all the way on with my hand. As with the composite housing, it meets the flange and I give it a little wrist snug. I could "maybe" understand the composite housing has more play which might allow it to get turned too tight, however I just don't understand how this could happen with the aluminum one as the flange meets the flange which stops it and should never get to a point where the threads gall (which are very coarse and even harder to gall) Anyways, I prefer the aluminum housing. Just installed a Valvomax drain and used my Motivx funnel combined with the filter drain. Not a drop spilled by the filter and with the Valvomax I don't expect a drop spilled on top of my TRD skid plate anymore. I am now set up for 15 minute spill free oil changes. Yeah.

 

Reading comprehension is a bitch

 

No need to get your panties in a bunch cause no one cares.

 

Apparently you do since you only make snide remarks and add nothing to the conversation little boy

 

Seems you're just upset I didn't need nor care for your refresher on strengths of materials old fart.

 

Oil threads always bring out the best in everyone.

 

inb4locked

 

Lmao damn guys not even like that... look @desmodue not looking to argue here, my apologies for the initial remark. I should have just refrained myself from making any remarks.

 

That's the typical response from someone that that doesn't know what the fuck they are talking about

 

No its the typical response from someone that doesn't give a fuck about anything you have to say, pretty simple.