Home Improvement Today?

4" is plenty to hold on to!

 

Wrapped up another closet (lining with cedar) today. 6 more closets to go. Pin nailer and adhesive. Also replacing closet baseboard trim with plain 1x4.

 

Retro cool. How long is the great aroma for?

Technically what kind of cedar is that?

 

Here's the product. Was purchased at a small local lumber store though.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CedarSafe-Aromatic-Cedar-Natural-Closet-Liner-Planks-FL60-15N/100384021

 

I too would enjoy a walk in humidor.

 

Had a Phantom screen put in today....

 

Very nice. I'd likely walk right into that when it's down. I'd need to attach a couple small pieces of flourescent orange flagging ribbon/tape as an indicator.

 

That's slick enough that I could sneak it past my HOA...

But yeah I'd just ruin it.

 

Looks good man. It's always mixed feelings for me when a project gets towards completion. Stoked about how it turned out and sad to have to move on to the next one. But that's what pays the bills.

Any reason you don't run corner trim first then abut the shingles too it? I always run corner/window/door trims first if it's a lap siding.

 

I'm not a builder but I'd imagine it creates a better water screen with the corner laid over the siding.

 

I like to overlay my siding corners , it makes the siding install faster and requires no caulking detailing between the siding and trim plus in our rainy environment I feel it does a better job of keeping the water out

My window and door trims go on as units before siding installation usually

With cedar shingles I usually weave my corners and have no applied corner trim but I just didn't have the extra time for that on this job

 

I think "aromatic cedar" as actually a juniper

 

closer pic ~

I still need to fill a few trim head screw holes in some of the trims and touch up the trim paint

The head trim mitres around the corner as a continuous trim / continuous head flashing over the window / door set and bump out window , the side trims of the door and windows overlay the siding by 1"

 

I don't caulk between the trim and siding unless the manufacturer calls for it. What I do is very water tight and I've yet to get a call back for water intrusion. Before house wrap I put a 12" strip of bitch vertically along all inside and outside corners 6" on each side. Then house wrap gets taped to that. Then corner trim goes on with a fat layer of silicone between it and the bitch. The bitch keeps the nail holes water tight and the silicone prevents water from working under the trim. Then the siding side gets siliconed during install. Since the silicone is protected from UV it lasts a very long time.

 

our code requires a 10mm (3/8") drained and vented capillary break (rainscreen) cavity between the back of cladding and the housewrap so that can complicate a few trim details . For instance if you look closely at the last pic I posted you will see there are actually 2 head flashings over each window . 1 directly over the window itself , and another above the window head trim

The one directly above the window is in the housewrap plane and is acting as a drain and a vent intake for the rainscreen cavity above the window . That flashing requires a 13/16" end dam on either end so wind driven rain can't travel sideways off the end of the flashing and behind the cladding . In order to incorporate that into my trims , I needed to rout a channel in the head trims to accept the end dam at each end of those primary flashings . The secondary flashing that is above the head trim has it's wall leg on top of the rainscreen strapping and is just acting to lap any surface water coming down the face of the cladding out and off the trim

 

Correct! Lots of lumber out there tagged as "Cedar" is actually something else. Lot's of box store 'cedar" is actually Sugi (Japanese softwood) or Chinese "Red Toon". Both are like cedar, but not real cedar and have their own unique scent. Neither of them have the same properties as cedar, which is what makes real cedar desirable.

 

The Aromatic cedar is what we call Red Cedar in Prince Edward County, Ontario. It's a juniper. Unfortunately is fades to brown after years no matter what finish I put on it. Smells good though. I have about 50 acres of it in various sizes from 3/4inch stem to 24" stem...but short! Tallest gets to be 35feet high tops. And big ones usually have carpenter ants in the core. Makes a nice smelling wood fire too.

And exceptionally rot resistant. I have some fenceposts that have been in the ground 70 years and still solid.

 

Is this the same as Eastern Red Cedar? I think it is: https://mortonarb.org/plant-and-protect/trees-and-plants/eastern-red-cedar/

We just don't see that here.

Of course not related to the Western Red Cedar: http://nativeplantspnw.com/western-red-cedar-thuja-plicata/

Which is a MUCH larger tree, neat wood. Rot resistant to some extend, smells OK when cut but not like the closet cedar. It's a Thuja (Thuu-ya) so neither cedar or juniper.

Ha and I have two Incense Cedar trees on my property: http://pnwplants.wsu.edu/PlantDisplay.aspx?PlantID=30

 

My grandpa had a cedar closet in his house. Built it long before I was born. It still smelled of cedar up until the house was sold about 10 years ago.

 

Nice! I've been looking at screen doors on Amazon for my garage to keep the skeeters out. Are you going to plant anymore trees in back to block out the houses around you? Something tall, but not necessarily wide like an Italian Cypress or Juniper of sorts?