Icon rxt leaf pack

IMO a little. This thread is about rear leaf pack

 

Yeah I posted this on the wrong place thanks tho

 

Thanks for the feedback. Definitely sticking with option 2!

 

My option is still a little higher than I want, even with 100lbs in the bed. Going to add another 40lbs and hoping over time that weight helps it flatten out just a bit. I have a little over an inch of rake in attempts to make the front ride smooth.

The rears ride fantastic (Accutune Fox DSC setup), so hoping they sag a little more to get ride of some of the rake. .75" would be perfect.

 

Installed these springs last Sunday with option 3. WOW!
Stinkbug truck now! Only 2" up front, but now about 2.5+ in the rear. It kinda looks like a truck is supposed to look now!

The stinkbug look is ok though, because once she is loaded up with all of our camping gear, it levels out and rides so much better then the old, worn out, stock springs on a block we had before...

The upgrade did change the angle on the pinion tho, and now there is a bit of a vibration from the driveshaft when taking off from a stop.
It is not excessive vibration, but annoying nonetheless.
The more weight in the back, the less the vibration is.
It's time to start weighing her down more I guess, in the plans, is a rear bumper with dual swing outs, which should help.

On a 2nd gen, was everyone with these springs having to use a 2.5° - 3.0° shim? (or more? my math keeps bringing me to around 8° of "shim-ness")

 

You can try a carrier bearing drop first to see how that works. When I did it, it just moved the vibes to a different speed. I think others have installed around 3 deg. shims to correct, but better to measure and make sure. FWIW, I ended up going the TW Woods single driveshaft route and it completely eliminated the vibrations that I had from my AAL and now my ICON RXT (opt. 2).

 

As you found out, I don't think dropping the carrier bearing will help in my case, that just makes the geometry even more wrong.
I did see the Tom Woods single drive shaft as an option, my local "DriveShaft Pro" guy kinda discouraged me from going with a single driveshaft and shims are certainly a lot cheaper!!
I hate having to re-do all the work done just a few days ago though!

I am going to take "unloaded" measurements tomorrow, see what angles have changed and go from there I guess...
Or, maybe, just live with the little vibration and get the driveshaft rebuilt in 5 or 10 years.

 

If you can have a shop add a CV (double cardan) joint at the transfer case end, I heard that helped some people.
What were the discouraging points about a single DS? Curious to know.

 

He was saying that you had to use a larger diameter tube, for strength, since it was now longer and there is sometimes clearance issues and other mods may need to be done (like remove the carrier bearing mount).
Also that the 2 piece shafts are kind of "better" since they can help to "spread out the load" more.
He also mentioned something like "And then you are stuck with either Toyota or '1310' u-joints" and when he said "1310" you could clearly hear in his voice that he was not a fan of them. (I am assuming that is some part number for a u-joint.)

It was just his opinion, the guy is locally pretty well respected and has had his shop for like 30 years though, almost all the dealers and repair shops go to him for driveshaft rebuilds, etc... He is a wealth of info when you talk to him.
What he said definitely made me think.
*edit to add: I had only called him out of curiosity to see if he could custom make a "double carden" style driveshaft and a ballpark $ amount for it. He gave me way more info than that!

 

Thanks for the feedback!
I know this is sort of deviating from this thread, but FWIW, despite being stronger, thicker, and wider than the stock DS by .5", the TW DS is also lighter than the stock DS by 3 lbs. After I did some measurements, I concluded that I did not need to remove my carrier bearing bracket mount. It's close, but I clear it about 5/8" on the closest side. It also should not hit under full compression. I do a lot of off-roading with load, so this was important for me to calc. I agree that you do lose some clearance, but I consider it minimal. The stock DS runs almost as low at the TW DS does. But, if you can make the two piece work, that would be nice.

To make this post more relevant to this thread, when I recently installed my RXT leaf pack on option 2, it gave me 0.4" of lift more than my progressive AAL from Headstrong Offroad, with the overload. Meaning, I have around 2.4" of lift from stock, from what I gather. Also, grease your bushings before installing.

 

That's good to know. It will clear, even by just a bit. Thanks for the info on your setup!
We also do a lot of off-roading with lots of load in the back (prob too much), which is why I am happy that the DS vibration is almost not there when totally loaded down.
I'm starting to think that just trying to not worry about it may be the best option.

I think this is all relevant to this thread. Every time you change something on our trucks you have to compensate by changing 3-5 other things, and each truck sometimes seems to be a different 3-5 things! It is good to know what other people have ran into when installing certain products.

 

Alright folks, I am getting ready to install the RXTs on my truck. I currently have the Icon AAL and it squats a bit.. even unloaded.

Its lifted 2 3/8" up front and Ive got an ikamper on front runner bars over the bed atm with a smart cap on order. Id like the truck to sit pretty level, with maybe a touch of rake to accommodate for the smart cap when it finally arrives (approx 300lbs total constant weight). I am thinking option 2. But i think it might squat a bit with all the crap I throw in the bed from camping gear, bikes on the rack, paddle boards, fire wood, etc. once I get the smart cap.

Any recommendations on which setting to go with for the long haul?

 

Option #3

 

Agreed!
I just went with option 3 because of all the crap we take on road trips with us.
Did not even consider the other options.
Just our water containers, when full, are 200 pounds! (24 gal * 8.3 pounds per gal = 199.2 pounds)

 

For the longer clips and extra spacer plates, did those come in a single bag or one bag per side? In my extra parts bin, I only found one bag with one spacer, one long clip, and a center bolt that appears to be the same length as the existing one. Gonna search for a little longer but will just do option 2 if I don't find it. Dumbass move on my part to forget to verify I had those parts before taking a pack out.

 

On mine it was one bag per spring.
The extra parts were plastic wrapped up against the Military Wrapped side of the spring(s).
The longer center bolt isn't much longer than the original, but you'll definitely need it (and the longer clips) if you do option 3.

 

Damn. Looks like I either totally lost it or never got a 2nd bag.

 

Not saying I know for sure, but I would bet that if you fired off an email to Icon or a good ole phone call, they'd probably send you what you needed.
Most companies actually do want happy customers...

 

I had a slight take off shudder also (option 2... 2" front/2.25" rear) and cured it with a 1/8" spacer at the carrier bearing. This is on a 2nd gen.

 

Thanks for your info!
It's just that all the measurements I've done and drawing it out makes me think it'll only get worse that way, even more "not parallel".
Still, it's a super simple thing to try so why not?

Also found a place with shims for 25$/pair, custom made, very thin, 3/16" for 3°.
Might just get a handful of different angles and try it.