6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

As far as your taper-plug - junction boxes for solar arrays have a nifty cable-entry design with, from what I've seen, 3 or 5 convenient gauge knock-out sizes. If you dub around at a local supply, or online you may be able to find one that will fix the cable gauge and hole size. Called "Hole Inserts"
If the OD of the plug/hole will only be matched by a multi-holed piece, you can snag plugs for the unused holes.
They work well on rooftops in Maine! Not sure how well they would translate to vehicular use, but it seemed similar enough to your original idea.

 

Hi.

I’ve been away from my truck for a bit. Been driving a new-to-me RAV4 V6 around most days lately. Have the truck back here with me today tho.

That bolt I’m using as a pedal stop is 35-40 mm or so. The adjustment was made when I originally set up the HRB. It could probably use another adjustment now that the clutch is all broken in.

The hole in the bell housing is the same diameter. Although, because of the way it’s casted on the RA trans, I’m not sure those half moons would do the trick. They’re inexpensive enough to try tho. I know @garciav has an extra set laying around. Maybe you two can work something out. He can measure them up for ya too. I don’t have any on hand currently. If I had to guess, I’d say that they’re 12-14mm thick.

 

Thanks Bill. This helps. I’ve come up with a half-moon design to 3D print so I will adjust the depth dimensions accordingly. Enjoy the new RAV!

 

Progress Update #2

I received a few adapter bushings back from amigo (finally). I added a shoulder on the bushing to help support the weight of the bearing and to extend the entire length of the bearing race. I have two extra bushings, so if people want one to help guinea pig this Tilton experiment then just pay the shipping and I’ll send one your way.

Next up is the anti-rotation bracket and hole plug for routing the hoses.

 

Looks really good man.

 

Anyone possess or know where to get that Russel P/N: 641380 speed bleeder fitting right now?!? I'll send you money. I've been on back order wait since October at my local auto supply chain and everywhere is sold out online now.

 

While it is nice to have. It certainly isn’t a necessity. Don’t let not having it hold you up.

 

I just got mine from Summit two weeks ago.

Pm sent about the bushing.

 

Hello all

We are wanting to know if the machining spec for a 2014 4L 6 Speed Quad Cab TRD flywheel is the same .060 as this discussion?

Or where to find a detailed spec on the flywheel

Thank you for your help

 

63K miles on my 2014 AC 4.0 TR ORD MT, no problems so far other than somewhat squeaky throwout bearing.

I just bought this 6MT throwout bearting kit from URD, possibly because I'm still in the "naive enough to think that URD is the answer to a lot of things Tacoma." Should I bother installing this, or send it back? (Just got it 3 days ago, still new in box, can probably just pay URD a restocking fee.):

I noticed there are hand-engraved markings around the outside rim of the bearing, as follows:
"URD TSKB-45 0322"

(I'm guessing that 0322 might be meant as a date code, maybe it indicates this is a later revision which fixes problems with earlier revisions of this kit?)

Attaching photos here for further reference:

 

Wish they could just make an aftermarket steel bell housing or something. Wouldn’t that fix everything? Lol

 

Tilton would probably make this if somebody provided them a legible report on what needs to be done,
and a list of people committed to buying that is more than 3.

FluidAmpr makes great dampers that improve vehicles. They offer many models, including one I enjoyed on my last car.
I emailed asking how to get them to make one for the Tacoma. They said 100 people needed.
So I asked on here who is down.
Nobody was down to improve their vehicle. Too busy dropping the same $300 on step bars to damage it.

Tilton will probably be the same way.

Why would it?
And why would that be solution?

Rumor has it 3rd gen quill is a stronger metal.

Having an integrated quill is stupid period. Regardless of what material it's made out of.

A machined steel bell housing would be expensive as hell. More than upgrading a bearing.
Bearing upgrade may not be a bad idea regardless considering people do them on performance, muscle, race cars, etc. - especially when they have stronger pressure plates to hold more power, making pedal effort harder, which the hydroTOB helps out with.

What other car companies have been doing with manual transmissions for 20+ years is a separately replaceable quill (sleeve) that is $30, held on with a few bolts, and recommended to replace any time you change the clutch, because they know the bearing rides on it.

To not do that would be like making a car with a wheel bearing that cannot be replaced when it wears out.
Nobody else has these problems because they simply replace the sleeve during a clutch job.

I don't know how/why Toyota managed to fuck this up, and if it was intentional to make their "reliable" vehicle fail at 100k miles.
Because manual transmission technology is readily available for them to read up on, they have avoided this problem on previous trucks, and all manuals use the same basic design for years.

However I don't know why other vehicle throwout bearings don't chirp. They can make noise when it's time to replace; but the Tacoma seems to chirp earlier.
However, mind didn't start chirping until around 130k. Maybe that was just it's way of notifying it's worn out.
But, I've heard of peoples chirping earlier, and supposedly the Tacoma has preload designed into the bearing that can prematurely wear it, while other vehicles do not.
I don't know if this is true.
Because normally, with a high quality bearing, at least in the case of a wheel bearing, some preload is perfectly fine, or even required, to keep it together in place; hence axle nut torque and pre tightening it in the air before final tighten on the ground. Though wheel bearings are much bigger and stronger than clutch TOB's.

 

A few of us pushed Tilton and gave them all the information they needed but alas, they have bigger projects and supply chain issues to worry about right now. I decided to make my own kit based off @BillDaCat8 's pioneer work and will start selling them to those that are interested in fixing this ongoing problem. I sent out a few already for R&D feedback and it went well overall. Just gotta button up a few more things.

@BillDaCat8 would you be cool with me starting a "condensed" thread on this Tilton topic later on to neatly compile your R&D? I'm sure there are some people that would rather continue chirping than reading 15+ pages lol.

 

In for the GB!

 

As in for the kits that I'm making?

 

Yes sir!

 

any idea approx price on the possible Tilton kit GB?

 

Tilton kit or my kit?

 

I mean probably your kit using Tilton parts/that's what potentially may be made, right?

I don't mean to suggest Tilton themselves may have a kit/GB given so far they haven't announced one; as opposed to TW members piecing together their own kits using Tilton parts

 

I don't plan to buy/stock the Tilton pieces needed to make this conversion happen. It would certainly be convenient for everyone else if I could just sell everything as one big package but not so realistic for me as I'm not even a business. Plus that probably complicates warranty and such. The expectation would be that everyone orders the correct Tilton parts from Summit or Jegs (Tilton's largest vendors) and then I would take orders for my little kit that makes the Tilton pieces jive with the RA60F/RA61F/RC62F.