Lucario Runner's Supercharged going to Turbo JDM build.

Saves 40 pounds so I like it alot. Build quality is also very good.

 

40lbs is solid. The Truck is heavy so anything I can do to shed weight works. Switched up bumpers and saved about 40-50lbs. Another 40 would be killer.

 

How long did it take you to get it?

 

4 days i guess as it was in stock.

 

https://seiboncarbon.com/products/t...ood-for-2005-2011-toyota-tacoma.html?___SID=U

https://seiboncarbon.com/products/t...ood-for-2012-2015-toyota-tacoma.html?___SID=U

 

Thanks I was looking at it prior. I was hoping for one work built in side vents but this one looks great. I guess the hood scoop will be okay. Did you pick up their hood pin kit or go with a different set?

 

Nice! I was asking them about it last year didn’t realize they released it. It’s a call to order item now. Pricy sucker. Seems everything I want now is 2k

 

Did you pick up or have an idea for a heat shield? I saw they don’t include but recommend.

 

With a supercharger I do not think a heat shield is necessary. If you did want a heat shield then some thermal deflective tape would be the way to go imo.

 

Gotcha. yah it did not say it was required per say but to help with longevity of the hood they recommended it.

 

Changed my oil and inspected my filter and looks good. I'm starting to think one of my lca bushings is going bad so I'll either install a superpro one or install a spare set I have. I'll list a break down of parts once I order them.

 

3/4 x 36in Al bar for a catch can mount.


It'll be a work in progress to nicely find a home for the catch can while adding as little weight as possible while keeping it rigid. Annoying thing is getting to this point and realize that you need to add tools like a sander to deburr everything, so another trip to the store.

 

The stuff i was looking for wasnt in-stock so i ordered it to be shipped to my house. Not crazy about investing in another battery tool line but Milwaukee doesn't have specialty tools like this.
https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/33287191604
I also believe its time to invest in a little ac unit as when I'm welding it getting really hot in the garage. this seems like a good bang for the buck.
https://www.alpinehomeair.com/produ...e-zone-mini-split-systems/blueridge/bmhh12y23
Will need to look at better seals for garage doors.
I am also looking at new headlights that have increased output that isn't just for show like the apharex and other ebay specials. Not doing color shifts, just need something that is comparable to current OEM vehicles. I think this will be a good way to go as i don't need to bake my headlights and all that mess.
https://teqcustoms.com/collections/...ucts/retrofit-headlights-2nd-gen-tacoma-05-11

 

So I made some progress on the catch can. I imagined different locations and placements but sometimes the simplest solution is best. In this case using the provided mount and drilling one one to the coolant tank will work.


Drilled and attached to coolant tank mount.

Can mounted. As you can see it's pretty tight but will work.


So now's a stopping point for me while I think out the line routing. The bottom line on the can goes back to engine or atmosphere of I choose to. ATM I am planning on routing back to engine. What didn't account for is the dipstick for the can. I think I can make this work fine with the y, 90, and the straight. I'll need to take the can off to install the drain but that'll be easier. I am also open to suggestions.

 

So I hated taking the can on and off to empty it. I use to suck the garbage out through the dipstick hole with a floseal tip on a syringe

 

http://www.radiumauto.com/Catch-Can-Petcock-Drain-Kit-P367.aspx
I agree so I got this.

 

Catch can installed. Not pictured is me zip tie the lines together so keep them together and not rub on anything. Only ran the driver side for now. For the drain the included straight barb is too long so I think if I use a radium swivel, p/n 20-1000-0465, it'll provide enough inner fender clearance plus route the line wherever I need it.
http://www.radiumauto.com/4AN-ORB-Fittings-P1237.aspx
For the passenger side I might try one of these radium press in fittings rather than tap and rethread the valve cover although that is an option. Radium states that p/n 20-0408 will work with a grommet p/n 90480-18001 is what's needed to make the press in fitting work.
http://www.radiumauto.com/10AN-Male-Press-In-Fittings-Toyota-Valve-Covers-P1346.aspx

 

You bought the gasket for an 8" diff, you needed one for an 8.4" diff. (8" was used in 79-95 trucks, 84-02 4runners, never in a tacoma). Looks like they don't sell one for the tacoma.

This is an elocker gasket - similar but has the big notch
https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/di...-parts/toyota-e-locker-differential-gasket-2/

 

The verbage from ECGs didn't really specify which it was since they also crossed reference 4th 4runner and fj at the time of purchase. Honestly doesn't matter as in the end as we were able to seal it up and I got my monies but it is a shame they don't take advantage of making a product that would be in demand.

 

I agree, they could have done a much better job. It looks like a great product.

The rear diff in the following vehicles is similar to the 79-95 pickup diff (but the front diff is a reverse rotation 8", vs the 7.5" standard rotation that came in the early trucks):

• 2007-2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser without OEM rear E-locker (All manual transmission models have OEM 3.90 ratio, see *Note)
• 2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner (check OEM ratio*)
• 2005-2015 Toyota Hilux Vigo without OEM rear E-locker (check OEM ratio*)
• 2003-2009 Lexus GX470
• 2003-2009 Toyota Prado 120 Series without OEM rear E-locker (check OEM ratio*)

(note: the 4runner and FJ were upgraded to the 8.2" diff in 2010 when the 5th gen 4r came out)