Rust on Frame with A/C drain mod fix

Thanks for the tip! I did mine, ran it down through hole like you mentioned, working well. Toyota engineers should do better…

 

That's interesting. The 3/8" barbed fitting worked for me ('18). Sometimes those fittings get mixed up at the hardware or parts stores?

 

Received the 1/2" elbow barb splice and did a test fitment - it's perfect for the A/C drain tube coming out of the Tacoma firewall - seems snug without a hose clamp too. Now to get some 1/2" ID fuel line at Advance tomorrow...

1/2" brass elbow link (free shipping too)
https://shop.hoseandfittings.com/ca...e_Barb/Barbed_90%B0_Elbow/Brass/1770808C.html

 

I bet your cosmoline isn't coating the inside of your frame. Remove your passenger side OEM cat guard and watch the rust water pour out. Report your findings. Thanks.

 

I purchased heater hose from the local auto parts store, only to find out they gave me 1/2" size not 5/8". Will the 1/2" fit onto the factory hose?

 

No, you would need a brass hose barb 1/2" to 5/8" adapter to make it fit.

 

Thanks for the info

 

Does water from rain not also go on the frame? Not trolling here, just curious why it's a huge deal since there's 40+ pages full of people doing this mod.

 

It does but vehicles subject to road salt paired with the A/C condensate dripping on top has a highly corrosive effect (can't recall whats in the condensate fluid that speeds up the rust process).

 

Tacoma's are doomed, least reliable vehicle ever built. Glad I traded for a pinto

 

Now if only we could get the cabin a/c to stop dripping on the front passenger floorboards

 

Um, that's not normal. Has the dealer ever taken a look at that?

 

OK, soooo...huge noob here (do people still say "noob"?) so please excuse my noob-ness...

I've got a 2022 Tacoma (you would think that Toyota has recognized and fixed this problem by now) and live in Florida (so, no road salt)....is this still an issue for me?

 

Yes. I live in Florida too.

I recently installed a transmission skid plate part of the process was to remove some frame bars from the main frame. When I took out two Bolts from this little sub bar from the Mainframe out poured rusty water and the nut was rusted inside and the subframe support bar that I removed had rust on it. It was very disappointing to eyewitness first-hand.

So from my viewpoint the small amount of time it took to relocate the drain drip tube was worth it I've seen where Vehicles over the years have recalls due to the frame rusting and I just didn't want any part of that.

So there you go, that's my opinion.

 

Easy question, what's the best way to remove those clips that hold the flap/matt behind the wheel?

 

Flat screwdriver, leverage them out with a firm tug. Hold the other side with your fingers to keep the clip coming straight out--not at an angle.

 

I went through this process and got it connected. I ran the truck (parked) for 20 minutes, max AC and it did not drip at all. I did not crimp the clamp down that tight... is that normal?

 

I found the second smallest size trim removal tool in this set to work really good for these, as well as others holding the fender liner inside the wheel well. It's got a small horseshoe type tip for the fastener to fit right into, and pulls evenly up from underneath it, to help not to pull off the flat tip on each of them.

$28 Neiko 20596B Auto Trim Panel Removal Tool Set with Soft Grip (5 Piece)

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20596B...t=&hvlocphy=9033316&hvtargid=pla-434094826706

 

Is this good to go or should I redo the set up?

 

I had a guy tell me my '05 was leaking at the gas station today. Drips right on the frame. Kinda classic really. I may have to do a 2nd one. I think I might have all the parts from my 2016 install though. Need to take a closer look at it.