X-Runner No Start - P0102 & P0335

Wiring

 

You should go kick the PO in the nuts for being such a hack. He ought to be digging ditches

 

O yea there's definitely some funny business going on there, yea I'd say dig into that rat nest and see where that leads...

 

Wiring diagram and ECM pinouts to help you deal with that mess.

 

Dug into the wiring and all these wires were repaired/tied into. E6-21 had me concerned since it relates to CPS. However I probed the sensor at the engine and directly at the ECM and I'm getting the same readings so I'm ruling out a short anywhere? Both places ohm'd out at 2.09k.

I think I've pretty much exhausted everything possible at this point. I even tried to hold the pedal open while cranking and nothing. It did backfire once while sputtering out but I'm guessing that's from unburnt fuel/cranking it a few times prior. No changes from the last video.

 

Are the wires all connected back where they belong?

Wonder what the PO was trying to do by hacking all those wires.

 

They are yes. Checked for continuity on all the ones I could reach easily and no open wiring. I'm going to pop off the timing cover again while I still have all the accessories off and take one more peek before I let someone with the right tools figure it out. I've exhausted all my ideas other than a stretched chain I guess.

Was hoping that that list of hacked wires would lead to some idea of the history of the car but why tap into VVT and stuff. Hmm.

 

Looks like they probably had some sort of piggy back in there.

When I was trying to wire in for each VVT sensor, the wires were dirty and I got confused at first. Mis-wired. Until I double checked. Easy for them to get mismatched. Obviously continuity rules out errors.

 

I don't like how this looks.

 

Interesting. What are the chances that this ECM was flashed for a supercharger or something? Is that even a thing anymore? I remember dealers being able to do that with the TRD supercharger no? Can I tell somehow?

 

Did you check the resistance of the CPS at pins 20 and 21 of the E6 connector?

 

I would think it would still start and run although probably poorly.
You can always check the calibration ID #, I believe it's under mode $09 on generic OBD.
I'd have to hunt up the chart of calibration IDs

 

I went by the instructions you sent and am sure I tested the right pins. Reading at the sensor and at E6 were the same.

 

That chopped off red wire is tapped into E8-1 Batt+ but I can't find any other cut wires to trace.

 

@Dm93 would you still get a good resistance reading on the CKP if one of the wires was shorted to ground?

Would it be worth checking each for a short to ground? I mean it can’t hurt?

OP, this is slowly progressing to the point where you’re going to need a way to “see” that crank signal.

 

Theoretically yes if one was shorted to ground you would still show correct resistance accross them.
I'm still puzzled by the fact it will run on the crank sensor only but not with the cam sensors plugged in, that leads me to believe there's something goofy goin on with the cam signals.

 

2f11aea9

I'm trying to go over all my pictures since I don't have the truck in front of me tonight. I can't remember if this photo was after timing the engine but the passenger cam wheel looks off between these photos?




Edit: nevermind. Doesn't appear passenger side was in time yet in the 2nd photo.

 

I was just thinking you did have the intake airbox in place and connected when you were trying to start the truck right?

 

Correct. I did new seals as well on top and bottom manifolds to rule out leaks. Vacuum lines connected, both sensors connected and cold air intake is connected. Everything is installed except all the front accessories so that I can keep checking timing/take off the timing cover easily if need be.

 

Ok I have another test for you, unplug the MAF sesnor and see if it runs with the cam sensors plugged in.
This is just following a hunch since I went back and read through this again and saw you had a MAF code prior.