X-Runner No Start - P0102 & P0335

Same thing apparently.

https://youtube.com/shorts/4KNaghXsgxc?feature=share

I did have a MAF code yes. EFI 2 was blown and sensor tested bad. New fuse, new sensor and code is gone now.

 

Well it was worth a shot, the way that thing cranks over it sounds like either it has low compression in several cylinders or the timing is off.

 

Can the pickup rings for the crank or cam be installed wrong? Or are they keyed one way only?

 

They are part of the VVT actuator and are not removeable, the actuator is timed to the camshaft with a dowel pin.

 

Could be the fact that I've been cranking this engine over without an alternator hooked up for weeks hahaha

I checked compression when I did the leak down and all were within 5%. Was told it was completely rebuilt so I'm trying to believe everything I was told at this point. If timing is off, it's 180 off at this point because I've triple checked everything throughout multiple revolutions and the timing marks still line up.

 

I’ve only found 1 picture of the pickup ring for the crank on the 1GR
And I still haven’t figured out how it “stays in place”. Lol OP, I’m trying man. I’m seriously researching here.
Hell, I’m over on a Camry forum now reading about CKP codes.

 

Want to buy a cheap Tacoma??? I'll even include the GT-R wheels!

 

No thanks. I don’t even like working on my own truck.
I want you to figure out what’s wrong. That way when mine breaks, you can come the East Tennessee and fix mine for me. Since you’ll have experience and all.

 

Just a hop skip and a jump from Ohio. Sounds like a plan. My truck is pretty much a new OEM Toyota parts bin on wheels at this point so no need to wait on parts. Those wheels just don't turn yet, unless I'm pushing it up and down the driveway

 

I don't have any other ideas beyond scopeing cam and crank signals.

Take it to Ivan (Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics) in Pennsylvania, I know he could figure it out and probably even make a video on it.
That guy is brilliant when it comes to diagnostics.

 

I’ll second that. He is a wizard.
Plus, I might actually get to see a video on it.

 

So the passenger intake cam sensor, is the Home signal.

What happens if, for some reason, the passenger and driver side wires were mixed up during the rewiring?

 

Just tested this.

With both sensor plugs switched and plugged in, crank but absolutely no fire. No codes.

With driver side connector swapped to passenger side, and passenger side connector (red wire one) disconnected, engine fires immediately. Crank code does NOT set and P0340, 343, 348 set.

With passenger side connector swapped to driver side, and driver side connector (yellow wire one) disconnected, crank but no fire.

 

You are onto something now, yes?

How are you disconnecting the wire? I am kind of confused.

 

I'm just referring to the connectors at the cam* sensor that I'm disconnecting for future reference. P0345 does not set like it did before. Just a fluke or progress?

 

I mean anything is possible seeing the state everything on the truck was left in by the PO, without seeing the signals at the PCM and comparing them to known good all we can do is speculate at this point on what is happening.

I wish there was another way to check it but I don't know of a good one.

Only other last ditch thing I know to try is to unplug the VVT solenoids just in case one or both are shorted to power and screwing with the timing.

 

Disconnected both VVT connectors and crank, fire for a second then dies out. Crank code pops up.

I feel like I did this already but am now getting a different story... everything hooked up EXCEPT passenger side cam sensor connector (red wire one). Truck fires immediately and revs like normal and sets P0340 and P0343 only. No crank code sets.

Plan on scoping it this week if I can't figure it out.

 

Went to 4 reputable shops near me and none want to get involved with the truck. However, one smaller shop owner went into his nationwide data and apparently 2nd common replacement part for P0335 behind the crank sensor and/or wiring is one or both of the cam sensors. So he recommended just throwing one or both new cam sensors in since they are like $40-50. I think this is my next move then off to PA it may go!

 

Just going to leave this here. Passenger cam sensor. Codes are gone. I'll revisit this post after it's all back together and running...

 

And there you have it. Hopefully it runs like a champ now.