Home Improvement Today?

Finished up my beam mantel today. The one that was on there when we bought the place was pretty disgusting, so I tried to bring the fireplace into the 21st century.

Started by ripping some 1/2” maple ply with 45.5° bevels on all pieces to make a box.


I did a miter fold using packaging tape. I’ve used this trick on a lot of 45’s and it’s by far the best method I’ve found to close miters super tight.

The end caps were glued on once the main beam was set. I had to sand down quite a bit to get them in there. For some reason my track saw left a little lip on these pieces, so it was kind of a shit show trying to get them on. Anyway, I did the initial mock up on the fireplace and started scribing to my ultra warped wall.




I used a jigsaw and a sander to get the scribe cut really tight to my line:



There’s a lack of framing around my fireplace (obviously), so I just used some super small French cleats as locks. The fireplace is luckily cut nice and straight on top, so really these just hold the mantel against the wall. I inset the mating cleats about 1/16” on the mantel so it would pull it tight on install.


The raw maple was waaay too light for our room, so I did some natural stain and a couple coats of shellac:


Finished shots:






Time to move on to baseboards and framing in the bottom of the fireplace (finally)!

 

That looks great!

Do you happen to have a photo of the backside of the mantel, where it mates with the French Cleat? I've used those cleats before (one time hanging a 6' tall framed mirror that weighted about 100 pounds) and curious to see how you did it.

Always looking for new ideas.

 

I’ll remember to take some if I take it off! Basically I just took the mating cleats and glued them under the top lip of the mantel. Inset about 1/16” because that helps close the gap between whatever you’re mounting and the wall — it’s a great method for upper cabinets, too! Since the mantel is kind of deep and no one sees the top (especially closest to the wall), I tacked the glued cleats with brad nails so I didn’t have to wait for them to dry. Filled the tiny holes with drydex before all of the finishing work.

 

That is basically what I assumed you did.

I am about to build some upper cabinets for my shop, over one of the benches, and and planning on hanging them with cleats.

 

Thoughts on the DeWalt or Skilsaw 8" and 10" table saws? I know some are using the Milwaukee battery versions. Any recommendations? I could probably get by with one of the 8" varieties.

 

I like dewalt workplace, im pretty sure its 10"

 

I've been running the SKIL SPT99-11 10" saw for 5 years now. Power and ease of use wise it blows the DeWalt out of the water. That's saying a lot since I'm also heavily vested in DeWalt tools. The skil motor in the saw just does not slow down when ripping large stock. The DeWalt will get it done but does struggle a lot more.

 

I have 3 / 10" DeWalt DW744/DW744X corded portable tablesaws and have been using them since they came out , they've worked great for me and we run them pretty hard at work


I understand the Skil portable is also very good though , I just haven't used one myself

 

Putting 61 of them in at the condos, soft open/close.

https://johnsonhardware.com/1500sc-series-soft-close-pocket-door-frame-kits

 

DeWalt would get my vote. Whatever you do, I'd recommend getting a 10" table saw, that way you can recycle the cross-cut blades between your table saw and 10" miter saw. Unless you don't need them to be mobile, then always spring for a 12" miter saw.

 

I’ve been happy with mine. The rolling saw stand is much more stable than other portable saws I’ve used.

 

I had 2 masonry contractor estimate on cinder block porch. One want to build on a concrete slab. The other wants to dig down below frost line, lie down gravel then put a footing in then start building the cinder block porch.

Is one way better than the other?

 

Check out the 12" wheels on the Skil stand. Makes rolling up stairs and over lumber a breeze. In the case of job site wheels bigger is indeed better. lol

 

Googles what size wheels can I fit on a Dewalt without rubbing?

 

is the Skil fence system rack & pinion like the DeWalt ?

 

Yes. Same onboard storage as the DeWalt. It's also got a 3 5/8" depth of cut and the same 32" rip capacity as the DeWalt. Between our crew there's my Skil and 5 DeWalt DWE749's. My saw bogs down less then all of them. I used DeWalt for years and still think they make a great table saw. I rolled the dice with this Skil the 1st month it was out. I'm glad I did.

 

the Skil is a wormdrive correct ?

 

Correct. It's the same motor and housing that's in the Skil Sasquatch 10 1/4" saw.

 

One wants to pour a slab the size of the whole porch?

I would say footers on top of gravel is fine, but I'm just an armchair guy.