Mid Travel BS 2.0

Can you rethread the top of my king coils? Not sure if the whole top plate is aluminum or if it has to be replaced.

 

That can be fixed with a proper heli-coil job.

 

Heli-coil like stated above, drill through to 3/8 and through bolt it, or tap it to 10mm.

You might be able to run a longer bolt to grab threads that may be in tact at the bottom of the hole.

 

Friend's schedule isn't clear until July, so i have a couple weeks to test fit the bypasses with the 3/4" spacers that I have.

Any negatives with running normal valving in the coilover, and the standard valving in the bypass? Stiffer id imagine.

Anyways, good time to let my wallet recover and semi shift my focus to other projects

 

stiffer is what I felt. Before I had them both valved.

 

I will try a test fit tomorrow. I just want no rubbing at full lock. Then I will try to find a rock to do a stuff test, but it wont be full stuff.

 

Those E load rated tires won’t help the ride. Keep that in mind.

 

swiped this picture from another thread.. Anyone know what these lines are? (in blue) I may have grabbed them with pliers when I was bending back my inner fender. I dont think I nicked the lines, but there is a marr on the coating of one..

 

Fuel lines

 

hmm, so definitely not good if I happened to grab with pliers. Ive been checking for leaks and smells, but havent found anything.

 

Ahh, it’s only next to the exhaust manifold. Just drive without passengers for a while

 

So I've been fighting a squeaky front end for a couple months now and need some suggestions. My front end is squeaking and it sounds exactly the same as when you forget to lube the UCA zerks for a year. I've tried lubing those up 2-3 times in the past month with no change. I haven't had an alignment performed in more years then I'd like to admit, so my question is; could gross misalignment cause this squeak from the UCA? If not, what other sources good this be coming from?

I have TC UCAs, ext range king coilovers w/resis, with stock LCAs.

 

have you cleaned/sprayed with dry lube the lower mount for the Kings? that and the UCA uniball is where I would check first

 

Yeah, tried both no change. Using a mechanics stethoscope confirms it's coming from the UCA....I just don't understand why. Bushings are relatively new, no deformities or cracks. The washers/spacers have some wear and witness marks from the suspension movement but it's nothing unexpected for where they're at.

 

checked torque? When was the uniball last replaced? I think mine lasted 3 years in VA winters.

 

@deadhed61 bro if there ain’t some noise, squeak, or rattle something not right.

always chasing those sounds.

 

Are you loosening the UCA bolt before you grease the zerks? There needs to be some play between the washers and bushings for the grease to get through.

 

Did a napkin test while truck is running. No smells or drips.

 

All hardware in the front has been re- torqued and verified. Uniball is still the OG from my original purchase (although I do have replacements in the garage on standby) which was probably 6-8 years ago. Maybe older, I'll have to check. I would say that it's low probability it's them because there is basically no pitting or excessive visible damage to them and adding dry lube to them has no effect. I would think that if it was coming from them adding the lube would fix it temporarily but then it would return quickly.

I feel the same, trust me. This MF'er makes more random noises then a herd feral cats in alley at 2am. THIS squeak however hits me hard, down to the bones.....not to mention the old lady hates it! Haha!

Most definitely am. That's the first rule of the grease club!

 

Im going to put my 0.02 cents there. Mine also didnt have pitting, and I lubed them every oil change. But when I took them out, there was just a slight amount of play.



Another thought, would be that poly bushings will squeak, its part of their nature?