Man, have I got a problem(s).

Ok are you doing the draw test by hooking up the meter and then disconnecting the cable?

to make sure power isn’t interrupted to the system

 

Oh wow. Mine is even worse than I thought. I read here on the forums that the typical draw is 40 milliamps and this Toyota download I have states that if you have over 50 milliamps "a parasitic draw exists".
But mine is 75 and yours is below 10! Yikes.

 

I've read that also. I was relieved when the battery came back up and held the charge with the cable removed. It was so dead I figured it was trash for sure.

 

Without actually seeing how you tapped into power for those 3 items. It's hard to verify your circuits to ensure that you didn't tap into a circuit that is causing the parasitic draw.
When you disconnected those 3 items did you restore the OEM circuit? (Removed every wire you installed?)
Using a Battery tender would cure a symptom but it won't correct the problem.

-Do you have an after market alarm?
-Do you have any other aftermarket electronic installed? e.g. USB with voltage indicators, stereo components etc...?

Other than the 3 things you mentioned is your truck "Bone Stock?"

If you have other mods? The parasitic draw may have been there previously but only became an issue after a long period of time.
Once you stock battery dies it will never be the same or even hold a charge for very long. (These are not deep cycle batteries)

 

Yep

 

My original battery suddenly died after two years. I charged it and it held a charge for a day then died again. Several charges later I had it replaced under warranty.

 

Get yourself a DC clamp ammeter from Amazon and hunt it out easily.
Forget this pulling fuse stuff, disconnecting cables to put the meter in series.
Just clamp it around the wires and trace/follow it.

$48 DC Current Clamp Meter 6000 Counts Auto-Ranging Digital Ammeter Amp Ohm Hz Live Check V-Alert Voltage Tester with Back Clip

https://www.amazon.com/Current-Auto...ocphy=9008543&hvtargid=pla-1384429753880&th=1

1ma dc resolution.

 

Can you start this thing now or is it still turning over and not firing off?

 

Any chance you have another mod not related to the recent additions? I had a parasitic draw on my 2019 and could not figure out as I had not recently made any changes. Found my dashcam had done a firmware update through my phone I wasn't aware of and one of the settings that changed was "always on" instead of hibernate or parking lot mode. I had a meter inline with the battery cable and started pulling fuses and connections and waa-laa.

 

I had a Chrysler minivan that I thought had a parasitic draw. I disconnected the battery and then completed the circuit with my multi-meter. It spiked up for about 15 seconds and then dropped way down as the system went into sleep mode. Its not easy trying to maintain a complete circuit while pulling off the negative cable....and really isn't necessary as long as you hold the circuit in place long enough for sleep mode.

 

How do you hunt down a small electrical draw when circuit wires are all bundled together? Pull fuses.

 

Oh yes it is.
You break that circuit and everything wakes up again.
Don’t know how many newbies make that mistake. You fart wrong and things wake back up.
I’ve had kids work for hours working on a draw for nothing.
Yes it is easy to keep the circuit complete…

 

Not so much. People buy cars/trucks as hobby fodder. There are plenty of people the "play with" cars like Mustangs, GTOs, Corvettes, Chevy SS etc. and spend lot of money putting performance mods on them, yet they spend the most of their time in the garage. Hey, if I had unlimited funds I could see myself screwing around with a Tacoma.

 

Not sure I am much of a help but got interested in this dilemma. The wise Google tells me that a normal draw on newer vehicles is between 50 and 85 milliamps, so your 75 doesn't seem so high that it should cause a problem -- unless it's spiking at times that you aren't measuring. Apparently older vehicles should be under 50, but if you have the correct spec for your truck I will believe it. But if up to 85 is normal these days, it probably shouldn't drain your battery at the draw you are measuring.

Anyway, how often is it driven? I'm thinking your battery is toast. Maybe one too many drops below a critical charge level, and now it's got limited capacity, or it's just a dud. The unmentionable c-word killed 2 batteries (different cars) due to not driving them enough when everyone was staying home. They dropped too low a couple of times and then wouldn't hold a charge. I'd replace the battery and get a battery tender and call it good.

 

I have seen a single time kill a battery permanently and the best I have seen is 6 times... I had a Samurai that I constantly left the lights on... until I wired them through a relay to the ignition. I constantly killed those small batteries. It was a good thing I could push start that thing by myself. Push, get it rolling, quickly jump in, put it in gear and pop the clutch.. it must have been like watching the clowns at the circus.

 

I believe your Magnuson Supercharger will run the coolant pump for a few second and cycle the coolant even when shut off. How often and at what interval, I'm not sure.

 

Nope. I've done this before. You can clamp around various bundles to see if there is a draw near the fuse compartment under the hood and the panel under the dash, or any bundle in there for that matter. When you isolate it to a certain bundle, use logic and take it from there. Current is more than likely flowing in one direction from the fuse panel so it will not cancel on the meter from the bundle. That meter will detect .001 A, 75x smaller than what OP says he has. And what if the draw is intermittent, pull fuses all day long repeatedly ??? You know in three seconds the draw with a meter.

 

https://youtu.be/eGz9BRJ09Rw


pulling fuses can trick you too because it can wake systems up when u plug it back in.

 

Good point.

Here is one with data logging for intermittent issues. Like if a pump or something keeps coming on, you can catch it. Hook it to the main bat term and log it to see if something is coming on and off intermittently.

$49 BTMETER BT-7200APP TRMS 6000 Counts Clamp Multimeter, Digital Clamp-on Ammeter for AC/DC Current Voltage Resistance Capacitor Frequency Continuity Temperature NCV Meter

https://www.amazon.com/BTMETER-BT-7200APP-Multimeter-Resistance-Temperature/dp/B08PBFJR5G?crid=142UUDG56X7F1&keywords=DC+Current+Clamp+Meter+logging&qid=1654732239&refinements=p_76%3A1249158011&rnid=1249156011&rps=1&s=industrial&sprefix=dc+current+clamp+meter+logging%2Cindustrial%2C50&sr=1-5