With no obvious signs, what raised your MPG?

Make sure you’re doing regular maintenance. I was rocking 19mpg doing pretty much only highway then I cleaned my throttle body and changed spark plugs and got up to 21 mpg consistently. Still riding that high but it’s about to go down again because I’m putting bigger tires on

 

Would a bed cover help I wonder?

 

I know TFL did a video on this relatively recently, I can't remember the exact numbers they got but I don't think there was much of an improvement if any. My truck came with a bedcover my grandpa put on and I use it too much to justify taking it off.

 

I remember an old myth busters where MPG's were better with the windows up, even with the A/C on, than with the windows down.

The truck profile is a much different than a sedan though.

 

The new Rivian trucks have a rear cab spoiler that disrupts the vacuum generated directly behind the cab, decreasing drag

 

Ethanol free fuel, pizza cutter tires, balance shaft delete. Probably the most noticeable is the ethanol free 87 oct fuel. Starts crisp, idles smooth and about 2mpg better economy. I get about 22 mpg with my std cab, 3rz, 4x4 with 235/85-16 tires and a heavy camper shell. The no-eth is about $.50 more per gallon than E10 87. You can do the math.

 

Already mentioned, but driving with the windows up seems to bring significant improvements.. but I also drive with the windows down almost everywhere!

 

First tank of gas in new(old) taco...~18mpg. Changed oil/plugs/airfilter, put seafoam in the fuel tank. 2nd tank of gas ran ~20mpg.

 

My '97 Taco 4X4 V6 engine has always run like a Swiss watch with instant throttle response to the R150F 5 speed manual tranny. For many years, I got right at 20 MPG highway when driving the 436 miles to my hunting camp. And this was with all my hunting gear in the cab and several boxes of tools in the bed hauling a-- down the interstate at 75-80 MPH. I put a can of Berryman carb cleaner in the gas tank 1 or 2 times a year when filling it up. And I use Mobil 1 5W-30 oil with Toyota filter from Walmart. When the mileage would drop off, it was a "tell" that it was time to change the oil & filter. My 2020 V6 TRD 4X4 OFF ROAD does not get 20 MPG highway even with no load in it.

 

What's a balance shaft delete?

 

Thats an interesting idea if it was pulled off well.

 

Looks like it was made in a way that sacrificed upforce for breaking that vacuum. But not like trucks are known to be squeezing out downforce, so I think it was a good idea.

 

The balance shaft is rod that's spun by the timing chain in a 4 cylinder motor (I don't believe they're in the Toyota v6s but I might be wrong on that one) it has eccentric weights on it that when spinning helps cancel out vibration generated from the combustion cycle.

That said it's been more or less determined that it's unnecessary; while it does prove provide a smoother idling engine the extra vibrations aren't really noticeable beyond idle so you can remove it which reduces rotating mass therefore freeing up the engine response and improving mileage by reducing drag and spinning mass.

 

3RZ Thing. You wouldn’t understand

 

how hard is it? Can/should I do it? Is there a how-to?

 

If you find yourself with the timing cover off and see Balance chain assembly damage or a spun b shaft bearing then yes I would do the delete. But just to go in there only to do the delete? Probably not. That’s a big job. I see you have 245k on your 3RZ. I’m at 240 and did a major service/overhaul and discovered a cracked b chain tensioner. Since I did a LCE stage 1 head, cams, 35lb flywheel and some other fun stuff I decided to eliminate the balance shafts rather than repair them. Glad I did.

 

I’ll put that on my to do list for the timing chain job then (which is probably multiple times overdue). I’m in the process of examining my engine and making a plan for its overhaul. Is 35lb heavier than stock flywheel? What’s the advantage of switching that out?

 

Timing chain is a “lifetime” part and doesn’t need regularly replaced like the belts on the v6, unless some sort of issue arises. My 3rz has 345k and still going strong. I wouldn’t worry about the chain or balance shafts until you actually have a reason to rip the front cover off the engine. Heavier flywheel will allow the engine to lug a bit better without stalling, but will probably hurt responsiveness a bit. They’re popular for off-roading

 

I see, thanks for the clarification. Can you describe some indicators that would tell me its time for a replacement? My fear is an old oil pump going bad without warning and I figured a pre-emptive replacement would be wise due to the high mileage, which would provide an opportunity to replace the timing chain/guide/tensioner while I'm at it. Just to keep things fresh.

OP, sorry if I

 

changing from AT to all seasons picks up 1-2 mpg in my experience, even for 35s