Audio Set-Up Advice

Good morning/afternoon all, new to the forum here. I have a 22 SR5 and I'm in the market to upgrade the entire audio set up. I'm looking at Infinity Kappa 6X9 components for the front speakers and use the tweeters to replace the dashboard speakers. I'm also looking at Infinity Kapaa 6.5 for the rear speakers (non-component) and a JL Audio stealthbox 10" with a 5 channel JL amp w/DSP.

For the rear 6.5's, the mounting depth for the Kappa's are 2 1/8". Is that going to still fit in the back? Also, would you all recommend sound deadening while the door panels are off?

What are your thoughts on the set up? Would you recommend something else? I'm not really looking for crazy bass which is why the JL 5 channel is only pushing 75 x 4 @ 4 ohms and 300w RMS to the JL Sub (400 RMS max). Looking to see what you all think! My music tastes are all over the place so it could go from some metallica/Five Finger Death Punch to straight acapella type.

Thanks!

 

Infinity Kappas are okay. Might want to look into other brands. CT sounds have been good.

JL is good but you pay premium for the name.

 

I need a speaker that can handle 75w rms and even though I wanted to run JL speakers, a lot of the speakers can't match 75, normal is around 50-55rms. I've had infinity before and i liked them, but it's been over 10 years since I've been in the audio world. Not sure what's the updated speakers worth running these days lol

 

As long as you signal is clean you can run double rms to speakers.

My focal 6.5s are 80watts RMS.
I push 220watts to them. Been running that way for 10 years now. I also use an o-scope to turn so I can ensure no distorted signal.

Unless you're going to go balls deep I'd save some cash and go with non major brands as they charge more.

@Man of Steel TRD can weigh in on CT sounds.

 

This is poor advice IMO.

 

How so?

 

It’s an irresponsible generalization. Having a clean signal does not absolve you of the need to be mindful of the electrical and physical limitations of speakers.

I believe your advice in this context is a recipe for burned voice coils or damage from excursion, whichever comes first.

 

Well I've been installing for over 25 years, did it professionally for many years, always followed this method of doubling RMS with my amps, always used an O-Scope and have still yet to fry any speaker other than the times I was competing in SPL.

Speakers can take peaks.
They can't take distortion.

A guy wrote this years ago and I saved it in my email as it's a very good explination as to why you want to go over RMS of speakers when you buy amps.

Suppose your speaker can take 100W RMS. Or that you decide to feed 100W RMS to your speaker ( your speakers should be able to take it). Now music contains peaks ( crest factor). There will be momentary peaks with +3dB or +6dB. You need amplifier output for powering those peaks. If your amplifier cannot provide clean power for those peaks it will run into clipping. Clipping always is bad. It is what damages your speaker most of the time by causing voice coil overheating.

The intention of recommending twice amplifier power is to make sure that a speaker never sees clipped power.

If you crank up a 50W amplifier all the way up a 200W speaker, there will be clipping and you might damage your speakers.

If you crank up a 400W amplifier all the way up a 200W speaker you might damage the suspension or make the voice coil of the speakers bottom out.

The right way is to use a 400W amplifier for a 200W speaker and to feed 200W into the speaker. The extra 200W is reserve for unclipped peaks. Speakers can take peaks.

 

I do like cheap CT Sounds equipment but their tweeters always break where the wiring is soldered to the leads of the speakers so I have been shying away from them. CDT Audio is my new favorite "cheaper" speaker brand. They always have something on sale. Like most brands they do have expensive stuff but I recently picked up a super nice set of 6.5 components that even come with a 3 way crossover so you can add a 3rd mid driver.

And on the speaker power handing thing, I'm with you on what you said and I have personally heard his setup @dolbytone. It handles ever single bit of power he pushes and doesn't overheat and fry even in the AZ heat.

 

So you said:

I had an issue with that and then you go on to explain how you’re not actually pushing double RMS.

Like I said, it was an irresponsible generalization.

 

Irresponsible generalization coming form the guy who only says that and never backs anything up. Gotcha. And I said you can push double RMS, but when getting an amp you should always get double RMS power. If you buy good speakers you can push double RMS to them all day. Pro lines are designed for lots of power being consistently ran to them

Ok you must be new to this. It's pretty simple to measure how much power you are getting out of an amp. There are also tools SMD sells that you can get the power rating of what your amps are pushing.

https://geoffthegreygeek.com/unders...xt=With a constant sine wave,100/5 = 20 watts.

Either way, do what you want and enjoy your stereo. I don't have time to teach beginners.

 

https://www.cdtaudio.com/main_series/cl/cl61.php

They come in 2 or 4 ohm loads. They have a lot of great sounding speakers from what I have had experienced and really robust components but everyone goes with the bigger name brand stuff. I have installed 4 different sets of this brand of speakers in the last year and they are really nice.

 

This is what I install. You aren’t teaching me anything.

 

I can’t hear anyone because my eardrums are blown from pushing 220w rms to my 93db sensitive speakers

 

Pretty

 

overall agreed, but 'clean signal' is a bit too abrupt for a very in-depth topic. sorta like saying 'fishing is easy!' as you real one in. and this is coming from someone who ran 100w rms into 10w rms speakers for years without issues.

it's not that hard to set up an amp that gives a clean signal of 30hz-20khz. but driving a tweeter with 30hz is where the problem will be. in this case, it wouldn't be a signal issue, it's a physical/thermal limitation of the driver design, which is a different type of distortion from the signal.

 

Agreed. I always tuned with an o-scope and a few other tools. I ran crossovers for awhile then went to a network setup where the amp can be adjusted for the tweets and woofers separately.

 

Nice picture.

Still you don't back anything up that you say so enjoy what you do.

Sorry OP to shit on your question thread.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tna3B5zqHdk

 

ZZIIIIIIIPPP!!