What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

That 3rd brake light is indeed a bitch

Looks good

 

Those "safety" inspections and smog checks are just a money grab by the local municipalities/governments.

In most cases, I'm more worried about the people driving than I am about sketchy vehicles. People driving while texting and not paying attention are a much larger concern IMO.

 

Definitely sounds like the jiggle valve is upside down. Shouldn't sit that high just running around.

I make mine push fluid bottom to top as I figure it can't just "fall" through the cooler. Idk if that's a good thing or not, but could swap those lines. Plus id do the cooler first that way you get a better cool off job from the dedicated cooler. The radiator then can supplement that or even raise it if needed.

Well I'll be. That must be new. Cool, i need new ones bad.

 

Got some info on those horns?? I changed out the steering wheel ( for sale btw, with airbag ) horn doesn't work now. Took those Cadillac horns and put them on the runner. Trying to wire some horns to a switch, or do a train horn

That seems pricey. Could be location tho. I did my 4runners recently for 160 I think it was. Tinted it for another 60. Then got a crack 2 weeks later. Fml.. haha.

 

You mean for the lower shock mounts? The good ones are the stainless steel -F1 fit from FKS. FKSSX10T-F1 I got 42K miles out of my first set, after getting only ~7K out of several sets of COM10T.

For the front uppers and both upper/lower rear, the hardened steel versions seem just fine, since they are subjected to less grit. FKS10T-F1

Whatever you do, don't get any COM10T, and don't get anything that isn't the -F1 fit.

You can grab them from Tim @TMFF. Make sure to grab some clips as well if yours are broken or rusted.

(Replacing the Spherical Bearings, Again (with Stainless Steel))

 

Except my insurance went up and the amount I pay for yearly registration also went up so they are still getting their money while these clowns text and drive with no traction and bad brakes

 

I cleaned the K&N air filter. It was pretty dirty after only 7 months.

I bought a new filter from Toyota so I can pop the new one in while the K&N filter dries properly

 

Anyone installed one of these grills? 95-97
curious to see what it looks like with raptor lights.

 

Gave the truck a good hand-washing today. Not earth shattering news, but it gave me the opportunity to closely inspect my now two year old Raptor "paint" job. I am pleased to say that I found no deterioration or failures anywhere on the truck. Basically, it looks just the same as it did when I finished spraying. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I would do it again in a heartbeat. Very low cost compared to a professional repaint. For pictures and more detail, check my build thread.

 

@TMFF

how do we go about this?

 

http://www.fkrodends.com/products/spherical-bearings/

 

In those situations where the temps are higher than you think they should be, are you in over drive? What happens when you turn over drive off? Do the temps immediately start to drop?

Some of the guys running superchargers are running a 170° T-stat designed for a '98 Corolla.

$42 90916-03107 Toyota Genuine Parts - Thermostat (90916-03107)

90916-03107

 

I sprayed my mom's camped shell with raptor liner. Pretty happy with the results. I got the idea and tips from the people on this forum.
Before and after.

 

Thanks for sharing this. I'm getting ready to replace mine.

 

Gave my 02 PreRunner a little love over the weekend: 3” lift kit, new bilstein shocks and struts, new ball joints and new rack-n-pinion bushing.

 

I was in over drive, I turned off a few times and it did seem to bring the temp down some. It was still running hot though. But I was on a flat ish highway, so I really shouldn’t need to come out of over drive. I’m hoping to take it back out this weekend, get some more data points before I start changing things

 

Pay close attention to when the temps start to climb and whether or not you're torque converter is locked up. You should be able to feel it and see it in the tach. There's a few hundred Rs difference. You have a scangauge where you can watch that right?

On my truck, fluid temps will rise quickly when it is in OD but the converter is not locked. That is part of the reason the temps drop when you turn OD off. It is way, way easier for the converter to stay locked in 3rd gear and all that heat generation created when the converter is slipping (not locked) is not there.

 

I do have a scan gauge I’ve been watching. I will take some better notes on what’s happening, I’m just hoping it’s not my torque converter taking a crap.

I did just give the truck it’s first real test with the crawl box. 13 miles of pretty tough wheeling. I don’t know if that did something. When I was in both boxes I did limit the truck to either 1st or 2nd gear so that it wouldn’t run through the gears to avoid issues.

 

Check the basics too, trans fluid level. Pop the radiator cap open and start the truck up, bring to operating temp and see if you get movement indicating fluid is flowing from water pump/thermostat opening up.

 

I really doubt it is a torque converter issue.

Again, based on my own experiences, it is probably more about load. How much weight, wheel/tire size/weight combination, whether there was a head wind or not, and speed. Anything over 70 mph these lifted trucks start to fight with aerodynamics which means the load goes up and the torque converter unlocks to compensate.