Turbo BS Thread

It looks so tight and flat fitting in there. I did the easy part.

 

So cool. That is awesome. So far you like it better than the supercharger?

 

Sounds amazing. How much psi are you running? I’m surprised how early the turbo spools.

 

The fitment is spot on. Not having to fool with moving or bending the ac lines was a blessing

Thanks man, yeah it feels like a big upgrade over the urd kit. Lots more torque down low and once it spools it builds boost really quick. That video was me rolling into the throttle. If I get on it quick, it seems like it spools even quicker

Thanks! It has the 5psi spring in the waste gate right now, but it’s been hitting around 10-11lbs. I was hoping for less than that, but I may just run with that for now.. yeah I was too, it feels like there’s a good bit of usable boost below 3k, but it’s at full spool by 3200rpm. Comes on quick for sure. The turbo was sized for a 1.7-3.0L i believe, so it feels perfect for the 2TR. You can also easily keep it in vacuum at 75mph, but it builds boost quick if you need some passing power

 

Has anyone in here had a p0138 code pop up after going turbo? I’m assuming it’s tune related, but it’s for the secondary O2 sensor high voltage.

 

It's seeing a constant rich condition post cat or you melted a wire

 

Well at cruise it is a little rich right now, like low 14s, so maybe that’s causing it. I will adjust this a bit and inspect everything and go from there. Thanks for your reply

 

Sucks not having problems lol nothing to post and watching you guys have all the fun!

 

Right here with you. Just the occasional spool sounds. I just have the luxury of $6.50/ gallon to complain about.

 

You've a bad ass truck. Go have some fun in whatever sandbox you'd like, and report back once you found that joy.

 

93 was about $5.50 last time I filled up, trying to baby the throttle right now. I really should get out this weekend but I need to wrap-up the last room of my little reno project. THEN I shall have fun.

 

Good! Got a lot of land out there for fun!

For me recently, I wired one of my SPAL fans to come on as soon as I turn the blower motor knob on. So nice having A/C as soon as the truck is turned on. Both used to only come on once the thermo-switch got to temp.

 

Started the process two days ago, of pulling the bed to check the frame for rust. Clean any off, and prep for welding in DMZ gussets.

 

Yeah when I installed my new condenser I went with the biggest one that would fit. My truck gets cold pretty quick for being a 07 in south Florida summers.

I do have a question though I think my fan shroud is too close to my radiator. Do you think I should try to run no shroud and just my two spals or should I drill some holes in the shroud and add some flaps?

 

As an update to this, i leaned out the cruise a little and the P0138 hasnt been back the past few days.

 

Means you found it. Were making the ecu unhappy with the extended trim change.

 

Got a picture?

For reference, my Bimmer only has a shroud for the A/C condenser. No longer a shroud on the radiator, due to the size of the fan, and the mounting bracket. It stays in the proper temp range between 194-199, even with a 111° road temp, and 5-10 mph traffic.

 

Here is the mount before swapping on the SPAL fan.

 

Not sure exactly what your fan/shroud set-up is, but for what it might be worth. for my 3rd gen v6, having deleted the mechanical fan, installed the the big GM var. speed electric fan with Lengenfelter controller; I found that stopped at idle and stop and go in the parking lot, on a hot day, the AC did not work; but i only needed to get going about 20mph, and it was blowing cold nicely, without the fan off (at this time).

When installing; effort was made to maximize free air thru the radiators, and effort to minimize how often and how hard the fan works, yet keep engine temperatures in a nice range.
- The electric fan was fitted smoothly within the OE fan guard, with no gaps.
- The fan shroud was gasketed to the back of the radiator.
- The fan shroud has flapper vents cut into the OE shroud at the 3 available corners plus one side (cut from the GM shroud and riveted in).
- The fan (legenfelter controller) sensor was mounted at the bottom hose very close to the radiator, such that it only runs the fan if the T Leaving the radiator is not cooled enough from the free-air alone.
- Much time was spent forming 1/8" plastic to close all the gaps between the grille and the face of the radiator (plus some sheet foam fillers at holes and hoses), to maximize ram air, so that air that passes the grille, cannot go around the radiator by going under the Rad. or going behind the headlights.
- Of note, I have a larger radiator, so this means it takes longer for the radiator to warm enough to begin running the fan (why there was no AC in the parking lot). This also minimizes how often the fan runs and minimizes the speed that it runs at (saving electric/gas as at 100% it sucks 70 Amps).

I am about to install a relay with a resistor in parallel with the sensor, which will be activated by the AC compressor. This resistor will trick the controller to thinking the sensor is about 15 degrees hotter than actual, and run the fan sooner and at a faster speed, with the compressor active. What I learned from the above, is that with this set-up, very little air is needed to get the AC to be effective. It has been suggested that this relay may need to install with a signal that the AC is active, as the fan speed may not react quickly enough for the compressor cycling, time will tell.

Point being, there are many ways to improve air flow, and I for one believe in increasing free air flow, including the benefit of flapped vents.

first pic is not the final bolts or rivets, bottom pic shows baffle installed across bottom of the radiator, and one if the lower side baffles, closing off the gap under the Alum. bumper absorber.

 

So this is my radiator

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233240003678



I ended up swapping the cheapo fans for some spals that were slightly bigger so I enlarged the holes accordingly.

I'm really leaning towards adding some flaps as it's really only on the highway is where I see Temps slowly creep up. On the highway doing 70 mph I'm at like 2100 rpm so I feel like it's more of an air flow problem then a load problem

The ac condenser is far enough infront so I don't suspect that's causing any turbulence.

My Temps are 197 -202 around town and on the highway it'll slowly creep and will level off at 206.