Shellshock's DIY inflator / deflator

Noisy

 

I don’t sit in my truck when I’m airing up tires

 

My wife might tho.

 

I don’t have that problem lol

 

@gasparic104

 

@Slashaar uh oh, I think we need another "get rid of the wife?" poll

 

Anyone try the Haltec H 5265 on 4runner trail wheels? The valve stem is pretty protected on these rims not sure if it would fit.

 

I bought an Oetiker kit with a good variety of clamp sizes to make the modified Version 1 of the dual hose setup. Turned out the clamp size I needed was a "tweener". I ended up using the larger size. As you said, it is quick and easy. But that nub sticking out is annoying. Not as bad as a screw clamp, but still annoying.

I like those wire clamps you made, so I decided to make one of those Clamptite tool. I bought a 5/16" turnbuckle, 5/16" coupler nut, and a 3.5" SS carriage bolt. My total cost was about $8 since I already had the Yakima 5/16" wingnut and the other parts. I was happy with the way it turned out. Now I need to go find a hose with one of those nasty screw clamps on it and see if I can replace it with a proper wire clamp!

 

Yeah! That thing is beautiful. Nice work.



The smooth wire clamps are so nice. Lemme know how it works out for you.


I was just using mine the other day.

 

I had the same question about 1/4" or 3/8" tubing. Since @Shellshock did all of the legwork, I figured 3/8" was the way to go. At least, at the time, it seemed logical. I figured it was similar to wire sizing, where a larger wire size reduces resistance. Then you threw that wrench into my logic! In any case, I'm very happy with the speed at which my setup deflates/inflates tires.

If you ever want to do a inflate/deflate time test comparing a 1/4" and a 3/8" dual hose system, let me know. I'd be curious to see the difference in times. I'm sure it would be a good comparison since my setup is very similar to yours. We both have an AstroAI digital gauge inflator and a Viair 300P (however, mine is not "auto" modified). You would have a slight time advantage with the tires since your Wildpeaks are a +1 on a 17" wheel, whereas my Wildpeaks are a +1 on a 16" (stock Offroad) wheel.

I replaced a worm-drive hose clamp using the tool I made. It worked, however, it took a toll on the tool. This is because I only had .061" galvanized steel wire, and it was stiff. It took a lot of pressure to take up the slack in the wire. After I finished the crimp, the bolt did not slide as smoothly as before doing the crimp. To fix it, I'm going to drill out the bolt hole and place a stainless steel sleeve in it. The slightly longer length of the sleeve and the harder steel surface that will guide the bolt should allow it to slide smoother.

 

Hahaha! Sorry to throw you off track.

Oof, though. For good, soft hose, you only need baling wire. It will tension enough to impress itself into the hose, which is all that is needed. Harbor Freight has the both the baling wire and good 0.041 SS safety wire:

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I can time it sometime, if I remember. But when airing down, the valve cores are the limiting restriction. The ARB deflator that pulls the core while deflating is much, much faster per tire:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/arb-ez-deflator-kit.html​

Airing up, I like my Viair and have no intention of changing, but twin ARBs just embarrass it. Still to get near max flow, it isn't building 100psi of line pressure without a tank. Of course, folks could build a twin Viairs on a flexible manifold for less. My old scuba tank using my same deflator / inflator kit was even faster than the twin ARBs.

In the end, the convenience of @Shellshock 's deflator / inflator goes beyond speed.

 

Got my tank last week. It has a bunch of ports. I was contemplating running 5 lines, one to the bed, one to each corner. Not sure how insanely stupid that is but it’d mean only one small air chuck to inflate, yeah? With the downside of locating a proper mounting location somewhere, but then again the DSC’s are right there already.

 

Definitely. Have a connection on either side would be nice. I am not a fan of the connections near each wheel though. Finding a clean spot that the chucks would live in is pretty difficult. The places that I have seen would be deep in the wheel wells that would likely be crusted in dirt, mud, or snow.

That has been my limiting factor from running winch power to the rear. The only good spots are the cubbies, and for whatever reason, I do not want to cut into them.

 

Gotchya. Maybe one per side makes sense. This is for the Tundra so maybe there is space between cab and bed near the rails. I’ll scope it out. Seems like with the shell that it’ll be annoying to run line from L to R sides.

 

With a shell, do you have windoors? If so, a little bracket in the corner one each side would be perfect, IMHO.

 

Good idea. Thanks. I do have windoors.

 

You're welcome! That would be slick.

 

Totally agree with everything you said, especially the last line! For me, I'm not a serious offroader, so convenience and cost are my primary focus. I have the Boulder version of the ARB deflator, but I will probably never use it, now that I have an easier way to do it. 2 - 3 minutes to air up or down 2 tires at a time is fine with me.

To be perfectly honest, my inflator will rarely leave my garage. It will primarily be hooked up to my 2 gal. home compressor to top off my cars tires. Like most of my projects, the main reason I built the inflator is because it looked like a fun project to build!

Thanks for the HF links. I will pick up some wire the next time I'm by HF. I thought I had some soft baling wire, but I couldn't find it, so I ended up using whatever i could find in the garage. Any .041" wire will definitely be easier to work with than the .061" wire I used!