Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Went to the ultra 4 race at AOP and had a blast, tons of compliments to your product @81Trekker

 

Looks really good and I’m a huge fan of that glass with the 2.25 kit!

 

Thanks! I wish I didn’t have to trim them so much but my scrub radius is less than ideal. Im fighting trying to make the rear wider to fit 37s and not rub so much vs not have such a bad scrub radius in the front.
So I’m thinking either upgrade the front to +4” or link the rear with notched frame for shock clearance and no tire rub.

 

FWIW, the JD SUA kit fits 37’s on -38 wheels with 1.25” spacers. It’s tighttttt and might rub a very slight bit at full stuff articulated. I thought I was going to be cutting into my bed for sure. No matter what you need a wide rear to stuff 37’s with any kind of decent uptravel.

 

Don't forget a little wiggle room for any frame flex. Though, you boxed yours iirc? Too many builds in here to keep it all straight.

 

Boxed or not it’s still going to flex until a cage ties it all together. Full bump under full articulation it all clears. But I added the “might rub” because of additional flex I couldn’t replicate in the shop.

 

Should have myself a roller today.

 

While I contemplate what it will take to get me into 35s… I notice the website for the inner fenders says minimal cutting, grinding and minimal welding will be required. What has to be welded?

 

Just thought I would share this with the guys running or wanting to run the JD SUA kit with their towers. The towers obviously block the clamps to remove the filler neck unless you pull the box. So I spent some time researching different filler neck hoses and stumbled upon this one through oreilly. No idea what it’s for but the part number is pictured. It’s 1” at the filler neck it’s self and 1.25” at the tank which is exactly what’s needed. My plan will be to cut down the metal tubes on the neck so the clamps can be accessed.

 

I think I saw a few pages back there were some tabs that you may have to weld on for different applications.

 

Hmm that's really good info. I might do this if I get time to pull the bed again.

 

@deekyn

 

Mounting tabs depending on the year truck you have. The fender & fuse box mounts differ between 2nd & 3rd gens.

I would also challenge the statement "minimal cutting" as you have to cut the OE inner fenders out completely. It's not hard but it is daunting.

Also, for 35s, you'll have to trim the core support up front to clear at full bump & lock and will likely have to have the JD pivot kit installed to push the tire away from the firewall.

 

What's up mofos, who wants to buy my rear end?

Check this shit out, it's already prepped for SUA, it's got shock tabs welded on for relocated, long ass fuckin shocks, 1.25" spidertrax spacers, it's got 5.29 gears in it, AND it's got a factory e-locker. This bitch has like 85k miles on it, with roughly 20k on the new ring and pinion.

To sweeten the deal, I'll throw in the OEM ring and pinon set, and with @81Trekker permission, probably give you my SUA leaf perches and u-bolts, cause I don't think I need those anymore...

I'll probably give it to you for less than what you'd pay for gears, and locker parts+install, plus for parts and labor for Harry to do you SUA conversion.

Oh look, axle pics...

wow, ain't she purty?



Bet you've never seen a caboose like that before huh?



Woah, is that...WORKING ABS???



Wow look at that bump stop plate

 

I love the marketing going on here I’d take this whole setup if I wasn’t broke from getting everything together for the front kit.

 

Not sure I’ve ever been so pumped to see a project come together. Should have the front clip hung this weekend. Truck will for sure be back in service next week.

 

It's a new truck - looks great!

 

What glass did you end up going with? Looks great, especially with those painted flares.

 

Just don't drive the truck for 2 weeks and you'll have enough left over gas money savings to afford it