Clutch slipping @ 65,000 km

I'm wondering if I should replace my clutch. 2014 6mt V6. I was reversing and clutch started slipping on 2 different occasions with a trailer. Last time was with my flatbed, Honda Pioneer 500 parking up a slight sandy bushy grade.
I tried getting slippage without trailer from a standstill on a steep hill and it just squawked the tires. Never slipped on the hiway on hills towing at speed in 5th.
Talked to my garage and they said they use Luke clutches and 6 hours labour according to guide.
I do travel remote so a little concerned about failure but from reading here it sounds like there is plenty of warning.

 

I don't have anything to pull up diagrams, but I would imagine there's an inspection port on the trans to... inspect. Any possibility that the cover is missing and maybe oil/coolant/water/what have you, could have seeped in? Only asking because I accidentally splashed some motor oil on a car I had with a missing cover, was able to just wait it out and baby the clutch until the soaked pads bits got worn through and it made it another 60k before giving up the ghost on a headgasket. If not, and the clutch is gone, then... it's new clutch time. It is a wear and tear part. How many miles are on your truck? And has it ever been replaced? Without knowing a back story, I can only guess. Maybe it has 200k and you just got it, but the PO rode the clutch all the time? Or you bought it new and know how to drive and it doesn't have enough miles to be worn yet? Need more info.

Edit: Also you can drive without a clutch. It sucks super hard, but unless your battery dies you won't be stranded. For emergency issues, start it while in first gear, then ride the rpms to shift and don't use the clutch.

Edit: oh I see the title had the miles. Seems pre-mature. But again, without knowing who had it etc, still a hands up for me. If it was a customer car I would look to see if the bottom right of the clutch pedal rubber was worn through. Then ask the customer if (let's assume he, but just go opposite of whatever they are, or ask about new drivers works) his wife drives the truck, because it looks like someone has been riding the clutch. Which a customer will never admit, so give them an out to get the real answer and steer them into being more mindful of driving habits. vernacular, mehanics best 2nd tool. Didn't bend it back, it was adjusted back to factory specifications.

 

The 6MT has an unusually high reverse ratio.
A lot of guys that tow, do the 2 low mod. Which puts the transfer case in low. Basically it’s 4WD low with out being in 4WD. It makes a big difference when backing a trailer.

 

On flat ground can you get the truck moving in 5th gear? That's a quick dirty test to see if the clutch is still good. Tacoma's have terrible reverse gearing if you're trying to back up a hill and even worse if there's a trailer to push with it. The 2LO mod mentioned was a game changing modification to my 3rd gen 6MT.

 

Sounds like the usual warning sign. Luk is fine but Exedy would be better. Don't wait too long or the flywheel will get smoked and possibly beyond repair

 

my clutch would always slip when wet and towing anything over 3000lbs

i replaced my clutch at 150k miles
it was metal on metal. lmfao, it still wasn't slipping in normal driving conditions.

i tried but could never find a way to see or inspect the friction material thickness

 

Thanks for the replies, I got the truck used at 50,000 km. Not sure if they can F*** with the odometer like they did in the old days.
Maybe I'll finally get to lubing the squeaky clutch as well.

 

Can always change odometers. Since I'm assuming you're not in the states you don't have to worry about the pre 2011 nonsense.

 

clutch test = let out pedal in 4th gear with e brake at a stop. If it stalls, clutch is good. If it doesn't, clutch is bad.

The stock clutch doesn't seem to handle towing well.

Clutch material is somewhat self-restoring over time

 

Ok did the 4th gear test and she passed. I'll do some aggressive towing next time the trailer is hooked up.

 

I never liked that test. It only tells you if it is “really bad”.
And I also think there is exceptions to when slip is “acceptable”.
Driving demand and conditions can be a factor. A clutch can slip and not be an issue.

You say your problem started after backing? Backing can be hard on a truck when towing, even more when the truck is geared high. I’ve seen cases where the disk material became “glazed”. Some times you can “work through” the glaze and the clutch will return to near normal. But you’ll still have hot spots on the flywheel. (Not entirely bad).

I think you got the clutch and flywheel hot when backing. Id do the 2Lo mod and not worry about it until it really “slips”.