YotaWerx Tuning Services and Development

Funny note there, sorta.

Folks on the motorcycle forum used to freak the fuck out seeing milky oil in the sight glass. Of course, it could be there for two reasons. Condensation and mixing in cold, wet months, like you mentioned, or a bad coolant seal (very rare). There were all these theories about damage to main bearings, etc.

The funny part was that I had to replace a clutch hub seal on the right side case cover, in the winter when I was riding year 'round. Pulled the cover where it was even difficult to read the level due to all the foam. Every surface exposed to the atmosphere was covered in foamed oil. But! Any internal surface on the CC side, it was completely covered in clean oil film. Like you noted, the engine heat ensured that the moisture was burnt off.

Even better, when the main bearings did frag many years later (84k+), the entire engine was pristine inside, except for the mains that were grinding against themselves. Plain old "diesel" oil gave a good life with no sludge or anything else to be found.


Just in case, my theory on the failure is that a timing belt break 4k earlier put a flaw in the con rod bearing that failed.

 

1 Gallon of water! Holy crikey! I had no idea. This makes a lot of sense considering this isn't exactly a from the factory part. Appreciate the feedback. Side note, I purchased a mishimoto can because it was bigger from Amazon, but am returning it because it was just an empty can without baffle and a drain plug at the bottom. The JLT can may be smaller, but at least it has baffles and can unscrew easily.

And to get back on topic, I am going to update my code to the non gear lock stryker. I am getting a dead pedal after I hit 8 psi for some reason (I do have a maintenance light on for oil). when I bring it up normally (in 2-3 seconds) I have no issues, but if I mash down on the pedal it's like it jumps up to 8 psi and then stops like a safety thing. I'm having my plugs and oil changed this weekend, so I'll have time to spend under the hood to see what's up.

 

did I miss info about this 87mm tune being released? and are there any thoughts about the 87mm and its tune comparing to the 90mm pared with its tune?

 

I'm still on the Beta 87mm tune and comparing it on the Magnuson tune it is night and day difference. I have flashed back and forth a couple times from the Magnuson tune to the YW Beta file and the difference is pretty amazing. The Magnuson software with the 87mm pulley fixes some of the weirdness that my truck originally had, flat spots were lessened overall the truck just felt better. Then flashing to the latest YW Beta file makes the Magnuson tune feel very restricted. I should probably swap back to the 90mm pulley just to see what the final version feels like but I'm lazy. Maybe if gas prices get really dumb I'll do it.

 

Ummmm. Are we only at partly dumb at the moment?

I don't think I can handle really dumb.

 

You feel like the 87 gets worse mileage?

 

Lol. My same thoughts. how much dumb can we get? I finally got my SC installed 2 weeks ago and I'm about to leave my truck in the garage for the forseeable future.

I just did some quick math and it would cost me about $500 in gas just for a wekend trip that I used to do for less than half that a year ago.

 

Well, don't ever bet about how much more dumb we can get, because all that you will hear is: Hold ma beer!


Some folks have been noting MPG increases with the S/C? Not the case for you?

 

Not really. At least not city driving. I think highway will be better but I haven't done a long enough highway trip yet to know for sure.

That said, I'm still in first tank of gas after the install. Maybe it will get better as the computer learns the new tricks.

 

it's tough to positively say yes because I have other things that have happened in the middle that make comparissons not completely equal. I drive differently on the 87 pulley to try and maximize mpg's where it wasn't as big of a change on the 90mm to get good mileage. Looking at my fuelly logs it looks like I am now averaging about 1mpg worse than the same time a year ago. I took a little later group from last year as this time last year I was doing a bunch of towing that drastically changes the average.

 

Yeah. It will take miles and many trips to sort that one out. Hopefully it is a trend though.

 

Quick question, actually a 2 part question. 1-if I flash to the non GL tune should I clear all the learned values? Second question, I believe I read the GL tune makes the ECT button useless. Is it more for towing in S mode? I originally flashed that tune and never tried the other yet.

 

So, this is a pic of what we tow - a 10ft box pop-up tent camper with our 2016 TRD OR AT V6. Capacity weight of the camper is approximately 2800 lb when loaded. When towing we use S mode always and typically S4 in heavy grades and S5 for the rest. We just completed towing vacation that took us from Golden, CO to Palisade Co - about 250 miles each way. There are two major passes along I70 route over the Continental Divide - Eisenhower Tunnels (11,063 ft) and Vail Pass (10,603 ft). Highway speeds on these passes is 65 mph. Highway speed on the steepest grades was easily maintained in S4 at 3500 rpm. The round-trip miles per gallon (towing) averaged for the round trip of 500 miles was 17 mpg. While at Palisade we drove an additional 200 miles non-towing, and our average mpg was 22.5.

The YotaWerx Stryker Tune delivers the power and driving experience that is missing from the Magnuson OEM Tune. YotaWerx and @mZiggy have developed a winning solution that makes every-day driving and weekend towing a true pleasure. Thanks Marc, and the entire Testing Group for your work!

Edit: For those of you wondering about Coolant Temp and Torque Converter Temp while towing during operating conditions (I use a scangauge II to monitor) here are the results: The Coolant Temp ranged between 188 and 200 and the Torque Converter Temp ranged between 155 and 170. I run a parallel Hayden Transmission Cooler with the thermostate pinned.

@ZR526 - Bilstein 6112/5160 with HS AAL. 6112's on the lowest clip. You will want to install the AAL's as the stock leafs will bottom out given use and time. I also have Sumo's on the rear.

 

I have a question too, what exactly is Gear Lock? I loaded this one, and played with it, and still do not know what it does different than stock. What I thought I read, was that in S-mode, you could pretty much dictate the gears with the shifter, and force it to lug, unless you were going drastically slow for the chosen gear, it would not over-rule your gear selection. But I noticed no difference, i can choose a gear, but it simply uses my choice as the max gear, and up-shifts when and if it feels like it, like an automatic (and downshifts automatically when it feels like it too, press the pedal too much or start an incline?) as it chooses. Maybe someone can explain how to use it and what to expect.

EDIT: For anyone reading this for the first time, just know that it is working properly, I was on back roads while testing as described above, and at about 2100 rpm and less, it will downshift as a reaction to throttle input. Will post more details in a later post.

 

Killer mpg!

One question, have you tried the Stryker+ tune while towing? If so, I'm curious to hear your thoughts between Stryker and Stryker+.

 

I recommend always Resetting the LVs.

Yes. The ECT function is lost to allow GL to operate. Once EROM 1.2 / Ultimate is released by vF Tuner, then GL will engage differently.

GL is like manual or sport mode in other ATs. It doesn't allow shifts unless you make them happen.

You need both ECT On and S-mode to make GL happen.

 

your description matches what I expected. That is why I was so surprised when it downshifted for a hill at about 2k rpm, I expected it to be locked. I also could not force it to upshift. Though I am certain that I had both S-mode and ECT on, I will play again. Would not be the first time I was certain and wrong.

Thank you for the clarification.

With the stock tune, over more than a 1000 miles, i would run a tank of gas with, then without ECT-ON, and I could not find even one bit of difference (both spirited driving, and towing); the only difference that I saw was noticeable lower fuel economy with ECT-ON, but could not sense any change to shifting or performance. I shrugged it off as a gimmick. This was with 04B81 ECM.

 

For the current gearlock function, you need to use both ECT and S-mode together as @tonered noted. ECT function is otherwise lost.

If the gearlock is not functioning properly, this is very interesting and something I'd like to know about.

 

Something sounds not right there. Definitely give it another try. GL was used on the dyno runs to allow pulls from low in the rev range. Folks often get confused the other way, GL is On and folks expect a shift for some reason. Hahaha!



That sounds odd, but all butt dynos have a different calibration and there are some weird inconsistencies between Tacos. There certainly different shift maps for ECT. But, it is okay if you didn't feel anything. The bigger deal is that GL is confirmed.

 

I have not tried the Stryker+ The Stryker has plenty of responsiveness for my driving style. Maybe someone who has run both can chime in. I'd be interested to know.