Turbo BS Thread

Definitely cut some holes for flaps or at minimum just to vent more air while the vehicle is moving

 

I don't know? when the fans are running, the flaps would be sucked closed. So at speed, for flaps to help, would mean the fans are not running, or they are, but do not move enough air. can u tell if the fan is on while you experience this?

Try, sealing gaps between shroud and radiator on all sides, make sure every bit of air moved by fan, can only have arrived after passing thru the radiator (none from around it).

Seer if you can remove any obstruction from in front of the radiator.

I had a van with a 350 once, solved slight overheating by removing every-other tube from the custom grille. This made a huge difference when towing.

 

Yeah that's what I think my next move is. I'll add a flap where I can but I'm also just going to drill out some areas to help.

My fans are always on and from what I understand the flaps stay closed at low speeds and open allowing the air to bypass the fans at high speed.

 

Wind speed while driving will easily push the flaps open. A speed related control would be required if the fans were desired to be off while driving over a certain speed.

 

If the electric fan is adequate as slow traffic speeds, then it is certainly adequate at cruising speeds (though possibly not at WOT excessive speeds). I think it is something else.

Any open holes in the fan guard (without flaps) will dramatically reduce the effectiveness of your fans during low speeds. The holes will allow engine compartment air to re-circulate to the front of the fan; the flaps are a check valve to prevent this re- circulation. The fans move a specific amount of air (varying with induced pressure of vehicle speed), but the fan itself has a fixed capacity for moving air, at any given speed; open holes in the shroud simply means that at low speeds, some of that air capacity will be drawn from the engine compartment (re-circulated), without the benefit of going through the radiator to absorb heat from the coolant!

The flaps simply open if the pressure on the front side is greater than the pressure on the back side. With the fans running, this is highly unlikely. The Free Air (from forward motion) would need to be pushing more air than the fan will ALLOW; in order for the flaps to open, (fan will ramp up with increase in vehicle speed, as it performs less work; so air thru fan will increase with vehicle speed). The flaps are utilized with a temperature controlled fan, because while the fan is off, it is an obstacle to air flow, reducing available Free-air cooling. The flaps allow venting past the fan, to enable increased free air.

I'm just not sure this is your problem. What are you using for antifreeze coolant ratio; more concentrated than 50/50? Has the system ever leaked where radiator leak-seal was added? Are there any kinked hoses. Do you have big lights or a light bar added within or in-front-of the grille, that may cause unusual turbulence, that could reduce air through the grill at higher speeds?

 

No flaps, no radiator fan shroud, tightly packed engine bay. Damn good fan.

 

My truck's radiator.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/upgraded-ron-davis-radiator.487191/page-2#post-15119225

 

WOW, that should do well!

 

Stumbled across this and is a new one for me but old tech. Quick search here didn’t show anything about these particular ones. They are/were actually Toyota OEM on mostly non American soil it looks like.

Quick search shows this one as the most common and rated just below an Eaton m90 by only a few CC. Apparently doesn’t build a lot of boost, per one website, but is more about the flow rate. ‘A lot of boost’ would be a relative number honestly. This would explain the wide range of displacement it covers. It has an electromagnet in the pulley so an on/off switch or other trigger can be utilized. Conventional and/or smaller pulleys are out there. Would need a mounting bracket and a longer belt but the plumbing should be an easy one. Power wise I’d say it would be on par with the more expensive SCs out there but needs some fab skills to pull off.

https://itstillruns.com/supercharger-sc14-specifications-8083848.html

PanDair General Supercharger, Car SUV Aluminum Cherokee Roots Supercharger Compressor Blower Turbocharger Turbo Remanufacturing Kit Compatible with 2.0-3.5L

https://www.amazon.com/Supercharger...=&hvlocphy=9026906&hvtargid=pla-1641953266079

 

Reminds me of the SC12/14 on the 4agze.

 

Reminds me of the early Mad Max s/c cars. That had the flip switch boost. @Lucario Runner

 

Also reference Nissan super turbo.

 

So if I add two that's good for a 7 liter right?

 

This is that one I believe. There’s a bigger variant, sc20, some are running on the 1uz. SC14=TX15. Just found it oddly interesting.

 

So it begins.


Ruh roh. Baby snail has some cracks developing. Time for the bigger one to go on.

 

What engine is that? Not familiar with a longitudinal awd i4

 

From my 2003 Audi A4B6. I’ve got all the parts ratholed for a BT. Now I just need the funds to tune it. Barring the delivery of the crank main bolts in a day or two, I’m hoping to have fresh crank bearings, fresh rod bearings, forged rods, Wiseco pistons done tomorrow. Front and rear main seals as well.

Thursday I’m shooting for stainless exhaust valves, all new valve seals, new clutch and SMFW. Going to tap all m8 turbo mani bolt holes to 3/8-16 and I have a sack of 3/8 allen head bolts for it. May drill holes in the allen heads and run some stainless tie wire through them to be safe. I forgot to pick up some m10 bolts for the t3 flange but will get them soon. Those will get Nord-loc washers.

Getting excited about her again.

 

Wild, had no idea quattros were longitudinal. Never really looked at them. That's a lot of motor up front.

 

Begs for an LS swap.