Replacement AC Compressor, most cost effective.

Last week I got th e blowing warm air and AC light blinking. Tried swapping relays, then reached down and turned the compressor. Still turns but it feels like its full of gravel. Hopefully the system isn't loaded with shrapnel.
Where did you buy your new compressor and how much? On line the prices vary wildly, the parts stores and the stealership are around $400.00 for a new compressor with clutch.

 

Cheapest and most cost-effective are two very different things. I would submit that OEM is likely to be most cost-effective. Are you certain it's a compressor issue and not just a clutch issue?

 

Go OEM and have a reputable shop replace it, if it is infact the compressor. Trying to save money on A/C repair will wind up costing more in the long run. If the compressor went the whole system needs to be cleaned, and possibly some other parts replaced as well.

 

If there is metal contamination the condenser, expansion valve, and screen must be replaced and lines and evaporator flushed thoroughly.
Also didn't cheap out on a compressor, those cheap china ones tend to not last more than about a year before they grenade or start leaking.

 

I agree! Why I pretty much, never go for the cheapest.

 

Is it making 'bearing noise' ALL of the time? If it is (or based on your description), it is likely the bearing in the pulley itself. If you're feeling roughness just spinning the pulley, you are NOT rotating the shaft of the compressor. The internals of the compressor is not moving until the clutch is engaged (as opposed to how your manual transmission isn't spinning while your clutch is DISENGAGED).

The 'normal' state of the AC clutch is disengaged - ie. your compressor isn't compressing.

In the past, I have been able to get a rebuilt pulley (with new bearing) and just replaced the pulley and clutch. If you go that route, I would recommend getting a new clutch from whoever you get the pulley/bearing from, as there needs to be a certain gap tolerance for proper clutch friction when activated.

Disclaimer - I have not done this for any Toyota (Denso) compressor myself, so don't know about sourcing of parts.

Start the truck and observe any noise and/or wobble. If it's making noise/wobbling all the time, it's likely the bearing in the pulley. If it's making noise/wobbling only when the clutch engages, it's likely the compressor internals. If the clutch isn't even engaging off and on when you turn the AC on, there's another problem going on (low refrigerant, etc.).

Some times if the bearing in the pulley is bad, it will make noise/wobble when the clutch is DISENGAGED, then seem OK when the clutch engages. This is likely because when the clutch engages, it stabilizes the loose bearing.

 

He didn't mention removing the drive belt so it's safe to assume he was turning the compressor internals

A Denso or Valeo reman would be my first choice. Even a Murray from OReillys in a pinch

 

This may, be the only time I would consider a part hang. When it comes to AC, I feel it's usually just a lot easier and cheaper to have a shop deal with it, and try to inform them as best as possible about the conditions. However, if you're turning the pulling and can feel said "gravel", that sounds more like a clutch/bearing/pully issue than the actual compressor. I can't see how you would be spnning it by hand with the engine running... so it had to have been off, and you're hand isn't about to put a compressive charge into the AC system. I didn't look up a blinking light, but paired with youre gravel feel, I'm guessing the computer isn't happy about pressures because of a fault which again seems more mechanical to me. I'm hesitant to say it, but I think it might be worth while just not opening the system, but just pull the belt, and swap the pully clutch assembly on the compressor. Looks like autozone has the parts for about $80. Shop rate, has to be what like $140 these days? The diag alone could cost as much as a part hang, and I so much never advocate part hanging.

 

ASE Master Tec, 40+ in automotive repair field. Thanks for the thoughts, just was askin, where how much they got you for a new AC Compressor.

 

lol, sounded like a worried question to me when I read it haha. Welp, you're way ahead of me. Never made master, quit early because my back was destroyed and still have permanent damage. Must be a sadist to take those trans tests.

 

Thanks for your input. To a fellow greasemonkey, I wish you good luck with your back issues. Have some myself, at 61 don't many joints that don't hurt! Ironic you mentioned transmissions, last 20-25 years I've been head of the rebuilding department ar one of the oldest transmissions/driveline shops inthe area. Take care, have good rest of the weekend.

 

Forgot, I hope your right about the clutch being the issue. That would be a pleasant surprise !

 

Go with Denso. You can get a compressor for about $316 on rock auto before tax and shipping.

 

Kind of odd for a "40+ year master tech" to be asking about where to buy parts.

 

I got problem with my AC too, when the compressor engage make sound like supercharger I tought was the clutch and bearing. I change it but still make the sound so I just finish change it the compressor Denso from Amazon and perfectly fit OEM and the sound is gone.
I already put around 32oz R134a but not that cold when outside reach above 90f, do you think I need add more R134a again?

 

Did you make sure you had the correct amount of oil in the compressor (too much oil in the system will cause poor cooling, not enough oil will cause compressor damage) and pull a vacuum on the system before you charged it?
Also the system only takes 21 oz of refrigerant, if you put 32oz in you are way overcharged which will also cause poor performance.

 

32 oz is 2 lbs, that's probably too much

Should be a sticker under the hood that will specify

 

When I got new compressor I dump new oil in cup look like around 4oz, I read at descriptions on Amazon seller said most ppl say that's not enough, I add 2oz more. How I reduce the oil if too much?

So I need blow it out all R134a and recharge it again? When I blow it out from ow pressure line, is possible will be lower or empty out the oil for compressor?

Thanks for the info bc I about add more and scare this thing will blow up.

 

Pay close attention to the advice above about the oil and refrigerant charge amounts. And don't listen to everyone telling you that the really cheap reman compressors are terrible. They are mostly correct, of course, but there is one positive thing about getting one of those. The next time you need to repair your air conditioning system, which will be sooner rather than later, you'll be able to do the job a lot easier and faster.

 

Certainly too much. Add some more and see what happens. It won't be pretty.